Throw in the tide as another variable involved in launching....

In other words, this is probably inevitable that the trailer will get
wet no matter how careful I move the trailer into position. I see...

the wiring harness.... If you use an reverse lockout solenoid, I
recommend that you use the standard 4-wire trailer set-up and add a
2-wire plug (available at any auto/trailer/etc. store) for hot and
ground to the solenoid. Using two plugs, you can unplug the trailer
lights, but keep the brakes attached... if the solenoid goes under
water you probably have wet carpet in the tow vehicle...!!

You have a good point. This means I cannot simply disconnect the
wiring between the towing vehicle and the trailer; I need to at least
keep the connection with the trailer brake. The fact is that my towing
vehicle is a compact SUV (1996 PathFinder) instead of a full-size SUV,
and the fact that the 18-ft boat is relatively big for the SUV. This
means I should worry about the towing vehicle being dragged down into
the water by the weight of the boat/trailer. Now, I just have to fully
understand your wiring instruction. Honestly, I don't quite understand
the details of your instruction. I probably need to print your
instruction, and bring the instruction to an auto store and ask around.

Thanks for the info.

Jay Chan

Around 11/7/2005 1:03 PM, wrote:

after I do this, I even go as far as parking the boat and trailer,
jacking it up and putting it on wheel stands so there is no weight on
the tires or springs. trailer stuff seems to last longer


"Wheel stands". Yes, that is the key words that I should use to look
for them. I have been thinking of using them. But I didn't know what
they are called. Good. Now, I can use the right terms to ask the
salesman in the store. Thanks.

AKA "Jack stands".

Maybe it's a regional thing.

By the way, do you need a wheel stand for the front wheel that is made
from hard plastic?

Nope.

--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

I have a tandem aluminum boat trailer with stainless steel fittings,
torsion bar suspension and stainless steel brakes, and a variation of
"bearing buddies."

I regularly dunk about 75% of the trailer in the drink when launching or
retrieving my trailer boat. I wash the boat after every use, and while
doing that, I rinse off the trailer, especially the wheels and brakes.

There is no visible rust anywhere on the trailer. ...

Good to hear that. Seem like the aluminum and stainless steel
materials really help, especially if we wash the trailer after use.

Unfortunately, the trailer comes with the second-hand boat, and I don't
really have a choice here; otherwise, I would have chosen an alumimum
trailer.

The frame in my trailer is made from galvonized steel, and the
fittings are regular steel. The galvonized frame is still holding up
well. But the steel fittings (such as U-bolts) are all covered with
rust. I am thinking of spraying them with some kind of
rust-removal/primer chemical (no sure what it is?) and hopefully get
the rust under control. If this doesn't work, I may need to replace
the rusted fittings with stainless steel fittings in a case-by-case
basis -- or replace the entire trailer (depending on the available
budget).

Galvanized boat trailers do fairly well with the same kind of care,
except...you cannot see inside the steel box tubes that make up the
frames, so you don't know what is happening in there. Also, steel leaf
springs typically rust up no matter what you do. That's why I went with
aluminum and with torsion axles.

My trailer also has an torsion axle. But it is covered with rust (just
like any other fittings in this trailer). Oh well...

Anyway, I will wash the trailer with freshwater whenever after it is
submerged in sal****er. Hopefully, this can extend the life of the
trailer.

Jay Chan

What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in sal****er when we launch the boat?

Boat, Motor, Trailer.

I just meant the trailer design and the hull design may mean you have
to dunk it to get the boat off. You might want another trailer style
if you can get it.

Thanks for the explanation.

Bearing buddies are a good idea but not a cure all. You should still
do a dissassembly, cleaning and visual inspection at least once a
year. Maybe more you are in salt water and go a couple times a week.

I don't think I will use the boat in sal****er that many times per
week. I guess disassembling the bearing once a year should be enough
for me.

Don't over pump your bearing buddy. It will squirt grease everywhere
and if you are really going fast with the gun you can blow the rear
seal out. As soon as you see the plate start moving stop pumping. It
is now under spring pessure and that is all you need.

Yes, I have heard about this previously (probably from here). Thanks
for the advice.

Jay Chan

Garth Almgren wrote:
Around 11/7/2005 1:03 PM, wrote:


after I do this, I even go as far as parking the boat and trailer,
jacking it up and putting it on wheel stands so there is no weight on
the tires or springs. trailer stuff seems to last longer


"Wheel stands". Yes, that is the key words that I should use to look
for them. I have been thinking of using them. But I didn't know what
they are called. Good. Now, I can use the right terms to ask the
salesman in the store. Thanks.


AKA "Jack stands".

Maybe it's a regional thing.


By the way, do you need a wheel stand for the front wheel that is made
from hard plastic?


Nope.

Us 'poor folk' use blocks. I had some 8" x 8" treated posts left over
from a deck project that I use.

I need to at least keep the connection with the trailer brake.

If you have brakes on the trailer that is a good reason NOT to dunk
the wheels. They don't like being wet, particularly salty and wet

Oh well... I guess I will have to disconnect all the wires that will
disable the brake in the trailer. I hope my towing vehicle will not
get dragged into the water (a PathFinder with 4-wheel-drive).

Jay Chan

Bearing buddies are a good idea but not a cure all. You should still
do a dissassembly, cleaning and visual inspection at least once a
year. Maybe more you are in salt water and go a couple times a week.


I don't think I will use the boat in sal****er that many times per
week. I guess disassembling the bearing once a year should be enough
for me.

If you are going to go into salt water, I'd recomend after use and
washing,then spray down the exposed bolts, nuts, clamps etc, with a
good penetrating oil. I prefer, Howe's, or PB Blaster. cheap stuff,
like STP brand, WD-40 and "Liquid\-drench" arn't the better choices.
PLUS!

After use in sal****er, you should hook your engine up to a hose using
"muffs" and run fresh water through it. it will help cut the corrosive
elements in the salt water.

Around 11/8/2005 7:01 AM, Don White wrote:

Garth Almgren wrote:

Around 11/7/2005 1:03 PM, wrote:

"Wheel stands". Yes, that is the key words that I should use to look
for them. I have been thinking of using them. But I didn't know what
they are called. Good. Now, I can use the right terms to ask the
salesman in the store. Thanks.

AKA "Jack stands".

Maybe it's a regional thing.

Us 'poor folk' use blocks. I had some 8" x 8" treated posts left over
from a deck project that I use.

Hey, that works too. Just make sure they're not the real "blocks";
cinderblocks can shatter unexpectedly if you load them up the wrong way.



My "ramps" are treated 2x8 planks (also left over from a deck
project...) nailed together in a stair-step fashion. Heavy as heck, but
extremely cheap for me, since the wood was bought about 50 years ago.
Good quality, too; the planks that replaced them needed extra joists in
the middle of the old 6' spans to get rid of excessive bouncing.


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

May suggestion my not apply to you! If you don't have surge disk brakes
with a reverse lockout.... just ignore my suggestion..... as the
lockout makes backing up more likely... not more dangerous. If you
only have 4 wires, just unplug the whole thing and don't worry about
it.

Actually, I don't really know what kind of brake the trailer has, or
whether the trailer has any brake at all. I guess it has an
electric-operated brake. But I am not sure. I will be downloading the
owner manual from EZ-Loader web site to see if I can find any info
about this.

I "think" mine has 4-wires. The plug of the wiring has 3 exposed metal
prongs sticking out and 1 black plastic prong that may or may not have
any metal thing inside. What does this tell me anyway?

Your Pathfinder should be fine. I have a 4WD Colorado (and before that
an S-10) that I use to launch an 8,000 lb. boat... Just put it in 4WD
LO *before* you need it and make slow accelerations so that you don't
twist an axle (or worse).

With an 18 foot boat, you really shouldn't have any problems backing
into the water..... and relax, the trailer is designed to get wet!

Great! This means I can disconnect the wiring before backing the boat
to the ramp, and submerge the trailer into the water if I need to.

Thanks for sharing the info.

Jay Chan

If you are going to go into salt water, I'd recomend after use and
washing,then spray down the exposed bolts, nuts, clamps etc, with a
good penetrating oil. I prefer, Howe's, or PB Blaster. cheap stuff,
like STP brand, WD-40 and "Liquid\-drench" arn't the better choices.

Thanks for the tip. I washed the trailer; but I didn't know that I
should be using penetrating oil for those components in the trailer.
Now, I will make a note on this and make sure I will do this.

After use in sal****er, you should hook your engine up to a hose using
"muffs" and run fresh water through it. it will help cut the corrosive
elements in the salt water.

Yes, I know about this. I intend to get that muffs tomorrow and start
working on the motor.

Thanks.

Jay Chan