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On 12/30/12 11:36 AM, Eisboch wrote:
"ESAD" wrote in message ... My dad had a Willys FC-150 for a while at the boat store. He was a big fan of Willys and Jeep vehicles, and bought and restored at least a dozen of them in the 1950s and 1960s. The FC-150, which sort of resembled the Ford "forward cab" panel trucks, was absolutely an awful vehicle, and it didn't tow boats very well, either, even the much smaller outboard rig boats of that era. A year after he got it, he replaced it with a Ford "stake" truck, which had a stump puller first gear and seemingly could tow anything. Pretty fast truck, too, if you started in 2nd gear. Looked something like this: http://tinyurl.com/b98rltq -------------------------- That's pretty cool. I don't think I've ever seen one before. My guess is that it wasn't a big seller. :) He bought it from the Jeep dealership that at the time, if my memory isn't playing tricks on me, was located on Whalley Avenue near Cooley Chevrolet. http://tinyurl.com/asnbd95 |
Generator
On 12/30/12 11:42 AM, Eisboch wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger. === I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling chips inside the cylinder? ------------------- I don't know. Never had a V-10 and never had to do it. I've know at least two people that had a spark plug fly out of the engine though. One happened on the road beside my driveway. Guy was towing a 26' boat to the launch ramp in Plymouth. I stopped to see if he needed some help and at first he didn't know what the problem was. Said he heard a big "bang" and then the truck started running rough. The hood was open and all seemed fine until we saw a spark plug sitting on one of the frame members. That'll shape up your day. |
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"iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. |
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On 12/30/2012 11:32 AM, BAR wrote:
In article , says... On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger. === I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling chips inside the cylinder? I would imagine if you are doing the head.. Sorry, I misread. The fix I am talking about is the oil drain plug down in the aluminum case. Oops! |
Generator
On 12/30/2012 8:11 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger. === I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling chips inside the cylinder? I read a customer's account of a Ford dealer that did it in place, just blowing the cylinder out after and hoping for the best. |
Generator
In article ,
says... On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. It is threaded into a bigger hole tho and that means more base metal is in play. The plug itself is steel to steel too, so it will come out a lot easier while the Helicoil is bound to the aluminum. I had to helicoil a plug on my Benelli 250. The factory installed plug came out with the threads still attached to the aluminum. Yes, there is more contact area in play, BUT, the threads of the helicoil aren't as deep as a standard ASME course thread. |
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thumper wrote:
On 12/30/2012 8:11 AM, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger. === I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling chips inside the cylinder? I read a customer's account of a Ford dealer that did it in place, just blowing the cylinder out after and hoping for the best. Very thin aluminum probably very little danger of any damage. |
Generator
iBoaterer wrote:
In article , says... "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. Valve keeper on a 289 Ford came off, valve dropped down while driving down the highway, pulled over and figured what to hell, I need to get home from the middle of nowhere, it started up, went home on 7 cylinders. Next day went to pull it in the shop, and that's when the cylinder hit the valve in such a way that it broke it off of the stem, punched a hole in the piston, scraped up the cylinder wall..... My first car, 56 ford convertible. Tapping from the engine and then a Big Bang. Valve head broke off, split the piston and broke the rod. Rod came up and broke two lobes out of the cam. Totaled engine in about 2 seconds. |
Generator
"Eisboch" wrote:
"iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. |
Generator
On 12/30/2012 2:21 PM, thumper wrote:
On 12/30/2012 8:11 AM, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger. === I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling chips inside the cylinder? I read a customer's account of a Ford dealer that did it in place, just blowing the cylinder out after and hoping for the best. Well that's crazy. Maybe, maybe if I used the grease method. |
Generator
JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. |
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On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. |
Generator
On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! It is threaded into a bigger hole tho and that means more base metal is in play. The plug itself is steel to steel too, so it will come out a lot easier while the Helicoil is bound to the aluminum. I had to helicoil a plug on my Benelli 250. The factory installed plug came out with the threads still attached to the aluminum. |
Generator
On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote:
JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it. |
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JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote: JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it. A stripped out helicoil will not grenade the motor. And with a helicoil, you probably have a stronger plug hole. Had to helicoil my Evenrude snowmobile wankle engine plug and lasted the rest of the life of the sled. |
Generator
On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. |
Generator
On 12/30/2012 10:45 PM, Califbill wrote:
JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote: JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it. A stripped out helicoil will not grenade the motor. And with a helicoil, you probably have a stronger plug hole. Had to helicoil my Evenrude snowmobile wankle engine plug and lasted the rest of the life of the sled. Great, you put your kid on the bike at 60 mph with it.. I wouldn't use one on the top part of the motor spacing is just too critical up there. |
Generator
On Sunday, December 30, 2012 11:57:46 PM UTC-4, ESAD wrote:
On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. . ------------------------------------------------- Yeah but...if you were jostling with the wife for space on the kitchen table at meal time...that can get distracting. I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. |
Generator
For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. But; were you able to fix any of them? |
Generator
In article , says...
On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote: JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it. /Why would you "grenade" it if you used a Helicoil??? If it failed, it would simply blow the sparkplug out like it did before. You do realize don't you, that structurally, a lot of "fixes" such as the helicoil can be stronger than the original don't you? |
Generator
In article , says...
On 12/30/2012 10:45 PM, Califbill wrote: JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 9:17 PM, Califbill wrote: JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 2:41 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait wrote: Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all. I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put 50,000 miles on it after that, no problems. I know I just answered but I should note.. I wouldn't use it on a spark plug on a race bike... Probably better to use the helicoil than not have one. I would really have to do the points math... 600 dollars and a few days for a stock head... 4000 and weeks for parts if we grenade it. A stripped out helicoil will not grenade the motor. And with a helicoil, you probably have a stronger plug hole. Had to helicoil my Evenrude snowmobile wankle engine plug and lasted the rest of the life of the sled. Great, you put your kid on the bike at 60 mph with it.. I wouldn't use one on the top part of the motor spacing is just too critical up there. Okay, tell us, how will a failed Helicoil spark plug fix "grenade" the engine??? |
Generator
In article , says...
On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. |
Generator
In article ,
says... "JustWait" wrote in message ... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! ---------------------------------------------------- Both statements are correct however to what degree is the issue. In the case of the Ford V-10, some of the "repaired" heads using heli-coils spit the spark plug out again after time with the failure being the heli-coil to head interface. The benefit of being able to remove the spark plug with less risk of taking part of the head with it is valid, but as someone pointed out, these engines do not required routine spark plug changes. This is what got Ford in some hot water, meaning trying to place the blame on spark plug replacements. The primary reason was the type of aluminum alloy used that weakened over time due to heat cycles. Aluminum is a unique material in the respect that it comes in many different alloys and hardening techniques, depending on application. The last I knew there were about 10-12 different alloys typically used in industry and several different heat treating and aging techniques. I became somewhat interested in this when I considered building a large, aluminum vacuum chamber that would be routinely subjected to very high side wall loads of about 29,000 lbs. Talking to metallurgists and mechanical stress engineers convinced me that it wasn't a good idea because the typical "61T6" alloy would weaken over time. I am not a mechanical engineer nor a metallurgist, but considering the liability risk, I decided to stick with stainless steel. Scotty doesn't get that the base metal is the part doing the holding. While there is some more thread surface with the fix, it's not very much. BUT, the fact remains, that the fix is no stronger than the base metal, it is impossible for it to be. Same with welds. Most times, a weld is far stronger than the base metals. Same rule applies. If the weld is good for 50 ksi in tension and the steel that it is welded TO is good for only 25 ksi, guess what the failure tension is? Correct, 25 ksi, why? because the connection is only as strong as the weakest component. |
Generator
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote:
On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! |
Generator
On 12/31/2012 2:21 PM, GuzzisRule wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote: On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. That's cause you don't do enough of them (if any lol), and certainly don't do them under anywhere near the conditions we work under. And if you don't have any parts left over you must suck. When you truly aspire to master mechanic you are blessed with a little phenomenon called "immaculate reproduction"... usually in the form of little baby metal thingies... ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! He's just jealous cause my kids built their own boats and rebuilt their own race machines before the age of 14.. and of course they being girls, harry is even more offended... Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! |
Generator
iBoaterer wrote:
In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. |
Generator
On 12/31/12 2:27 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 12/31/2012 2:21 PM, GuzzisRule wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote: On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. That's cause you don't do enough of them (if any lol), and certainly don't do them under anywhere near the conditions we work under. And if you don't have any parts left over you must suck. When you truly aspire to master mechanic you are blessed with a little phenomenon called "immaculate reproduction"... usually in the form of little baby metal thingies... ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! He's just jealous cause my kids built their own boats and rebuilt their own race machines before the age of 14.. and of course they being girls, harry is even more offended... Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! As I said, I am not much of a mechanic, but when I do take a yard equipment engine apart, I do keep track of the parts. The only parts left over are the parts I've replaced. Oh, there's *nothing* about your progeny that makes me jealous. I'm perfectly happy with the intellectual, academic and career success of my family members. Why you would think I would be "jealous" of a girl motorbike racer is beyond me. What, exactly, is there to be jealous of...that she's not going to college? |
Generator
In article 1507068199378670736.858223bmckeenospam-
, says... iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. Nope, what I said is that the fix is NO STRONGER THAN THE BASE METAL. It's called yield strength, go study and get back to me. |
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iBoaterer wrote:
In article 1507068199378670736.858223bmckeenospam- , says... iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. Nope, what I said is that the fix is NO STRONGER THAN THE BASE METAL. It's called yield strength, go study and get back to me. You are ignorant. The fix is not stronger than the base metal, but there is more base metal involved. Therefore the fix is stronger. |
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On 12/31/2012 3:22 PM, Califbill wrote:
iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. It blows me away how folks don't "see" this... It's so obvious. And yes to the line draftsman up there a couple paragraphs... NO, the thickness and composition of the metal has no bearing on this conversation, it is a constant dumbass... unless you start drilling enough to effect other structural components of the part... Like I said. Get up from your desk and walk out into the shop. Find a decent technician, mechanic, or any machinist and have them explain it to you... I love it when folks go overboard defending something they are obviously way out of their paygrade:) |
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