I retinned all the mates copper pots a few years back using bar tin and flux
but Johnson's E-127 is a lot easier.

I have tinned all the bare copper busses going to the T fuse blocks on Rutu.
Used Johnson's E-127 Flux N Solder paste. Pure tin powder in a flux.
Scrubbed the copper clean, dipped it in some fresh degreaser and handled it
with cotton gloves. Spread the E-127 on all surfaces and laid it on an
asbestos shingle. Gradually heated it with a propane torch until the tin
melted and brushed it lightly with some bronze wool. Came out looking
better than a professionally tinned buss bar.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"CS" wrote in message
...
I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
Sn96/Ag4.

TVMIA

I have tinned all the bare copper busses going to the T fuse blocks on Rutu.
Used Johnson's E-127 Flux N Solder paste. *Pure tin powder in a flux.

Great tip - I'll use 100% tin solder paint and pop them in the oven at
250C. Much easier than faffing about with a blow torch and solder
stick.