View Single Post
  #4   Report Post  
posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.chem.electrochem.battery,rec.boats.electronics
spaco spaco is offline
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Default Tinning copper bar

I, too would go with the lead/tin solder.
You will be using an appropriate flux, I assume.
You wil also be "shining" the parts up just before fluzing so the flux
won't have so much work to do, right?

You didn't say how big your sample was or how big your torch was. Just
remember that a small sample won't take nearly as much heat as your part
may take. Also, if you are using "electronic" solder, it may be a lower
melting point alloy than what you get when buying a "solder bar". The
solder bar ( maybe 95/5) could well melt at a couple hundred degrees
higher than 63/37.
If you've got enough "solder wire", just go with that.


Pete Stanaitis


CS wrote:

I have some lengths of cooper bar - 1 inc x 1/2 inch x 5 inch - used
as interconnectors on 2v battery cells. I wish to tin them and can
either cart them off to an electroplater or tin with solder. Solder
wire worked fine on a test piece with a blow torch. My question is
which solder bar to go for - lead free or leaded?? My instinct is
leadfree - tin with some silver and possible copper - something like
Sn96/Ag4.

TVMIA