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Default re-coring deck and ballast work


"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long


Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith



Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from
http://www.teranews.com


Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.



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Default re-coring deck and ballast work

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.


Even 20:1 for some things and the first layer goes to the edges of the
bevel and progressive layers are smaller... However, there is a host
of potential problems that needs to be considered in any specific
repair.

-- Tom.

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Default re-coring deck and ballast work

On Jul 17, 3:19 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Bruce" wrote in message

...



On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:


On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote


I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.


And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.


It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for
a similar price.


--
Roger Long


Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.


Todd Smith


Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)


--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com


Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.



7 to 1 is the recommendation from West. If both sides beveled to meet
nothing in the middle, only half as wide overall.

In polyester.

I did a thru hull as per, worked fine, was invisible under paint.

Terry K

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Default re-coring deck and ballast work


"Terry K" wrote in message
ups.com...

New polyester resin is a poor bond to old polyester resin at best. I hope
the repair holds for you, but you may want to consider redoing it with
epoxy.


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Default re-coring deck and ballast work

On Jul 20, 7:43 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message

ups.com...

New polyester resin is a poor bond to old polyester resin at best. I hope
the repair holds for you, but you may want to consider redoing it with
epoxy.


Naw, the boat was burned by vandals in the yard. I did beat the
speedo wheel in to drain the hulk.

Beat as I did, I was not able to make the poly plug budge or crack
paint. So, as I often want to admonish all the argumentative
graduate chemical and mechanical engineers out there shilling for
their epoxy stocks: Good engineering is a work done well enough,
cheap enough. All else is vanity.

Theory abounds.

Terry K



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