Fuel transfer/polishing pump
I'll check it out, thanks!
Doug "Charlie J" wrote in message ... Doug- RCI Fuel Purifiers have capacities from 1.5 to 400 gpm...they have no moving parts and no element to change. The purification is done with baffle and coalescer plates. These purifiers remove particulate down to less than 10 microns and 99.9% of water. Their website is: http://www.rcipurifier.com/ In all honesty, I am associated with this company (and with Gulf Coast Filters) and I manufacture onboard fuel polishers. -- Charlie Johnson JTB Marine Service St. Petersburg, FL 727.560.9065 "Doug Dotson" wrote in message ... I am designing a fuel polishing and transfer system. My thought is to use valves to route fuel from any tank to any tank. No problem with that part. I want to be able to just transfer fuel or switch in a filter to polish the fuel while transferring. Since I can select the same tank for source and destination, I can polish fuel in place as well. The problem comes with the selection of a pump. I was looking at a Groco or Jabsco pump which seems good for transfer purposes, but way exceeds the flowrate of the filter when polishing. A Walbro fuel pump (which I have as a priming pump now) seems like a good fit for polishing (33 GPH) but will be slow when just transferring fuel. What happens when a 5.5 GPM pump (Jabsco) is pushing fuel through a filter rated at 60 GPH (RACOR 500)? Thanks! Doug s/v Callista |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Doug Dotson wrote:
This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. There is a finite amount of filter-clogging gunk in your fuel system at any given time, the more of it gets in your filter, the less stays in the system (and potentially ends up in the injector pump & injectors). A filter element that does not clog up as quickly is either 1- bigger and can thus hold more gunk OR 2- is letting a lot of the gunk pass thru. QED My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. Sounds good but it might take a while. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? At Trawlersfest I had two lengthy discussions with paper towel filter advocates. Their theory is that the random oriented strands of the paper towel can trap any size particle, down to sub-micron, instead of acting like a sieve to pass through anything below a given size (they like to avoid mentioning that the "sieve" stops anything above it's rated size). However they never explained why the filters don't clog up if they are indeed trapping particles, or why particles can't become dislodged and re-enter the system. Also, the paper towel systems they were advocating were all "bypass" filters, ie on the pressure regulator discharge rather than on the main loop, so they did not filter more than a small percentage of the fuel being pumped. This is due to the fact that paper towels can't withstand a very high differential pressure. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Doug Dotson wrote:
This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. There is a finite amount of filter-clogging gunk in your fuel system at any given time, the more of it gets in your filter, the less stays in the system (and potentially ends up in the injector pump & injectors). A filter element that does not clog up as quickly is either 1- bigger and can thus hold more gunk OR 2- is letting a lot of the gunk pass thru. QED My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. Sounds good but it might take a while. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? At Trawlersfest I had two lengthy discussions with paper towel filter advocates. Their theory is that the random oriented strands of the paper towel can trap any size particle, down to sub-micron, instead of acting like a sieve to pass through anything below a given size (they like to avoid mentioning that the "sieve" stops anything above it's rated size). However they never explained why the filters don't clog up if they are indeed trapping particles, or why particles can't become dislodged and re-enter the system. Also, the paper towel systems they were advocating were all "bypass" filters, ie on the pressure regulator discharge rather than on the main loop, so they did not filter more than a small percentage of the fuel being pumped. This is due to the fact that paper towels can't withstand a very high differential pressure. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
"DSK" wrote in message ... Doug Dotson wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. There is a finite amount of filter-clogging gunk in your fuel system at any given time, the more of it gets in your filter, the less stays in the system (and potentially ends up in the injector pump & injectors). A filter element that does not clog up as quickly is either 1- bigger and can thus hold more gunk OR 2- is letting a lot of the gunk pass thru. QED The filter on the engine seems to prevent ,ost remaining gunk from reaching the injector pump and injectors. It must since it seems to be the one that was clogging up most. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. Sounds good but it might take a while. Take a while to what? Polish the tank? I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? At Trawlersfest I had two lengthy discussions with paper towel filter advocates. Their theory is that the random oriented strands of the paper towel can trap any size particle, down to sub-micron, instead of acting like a sieve to pass through anything below a given size (they like to avoid mentioning that the "sieve" stops anything above it's rated size). However they never explained why the filters don't clog up if they are indeed trapping particles, or why particles can't become dislodged and re-enter the system. Also, the paper towel systems they were advocating were all "bypass" filters, ie on the pressure regulator discharge rather than on the main loop, so they did not filter more than a small percentage of the fuel being pumped. This is due to the fact that paper towels can't withstand a very high differential pressure. According to RichH, the rated size of a filter is based upon what size particles it can remove on a single pass. A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
"DSK" wrote in message ... Doug Dotson wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. There is a finite amount of filter-clogging gunk in your fuel system at any given time, the more of it gets in your filter, the less stays in the system (and potentially ends up in the injector pump & injectors). A filter element that does not clog up as quickly is either 1- bigger and can thus hold more gunk OR 2- is letting a lot of the gunk pass thru. QED The filter on the engine seems to prevent ,ost remaining gunk from reaching the injector pump and injectors. It must since it seems to be the one that was clogging up most. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. Sounds good but it might take a while. Take a while to what? Polish the tank? I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? At Trawlersfest I had two lengthy discussions with paper towel filter advocates. Their theory is that the random oriented strands of the paper towel can trap any size particle, down to sub-micron, instead of acting like a sieve to pass through anything below a given size (they like to avoid mentioning that the "sieve" stops anything above it's rated size). However they never explained why the filters don't clog up if they are indeed trapping particles, or why particles can't become dislodged and re-enter the system. Also, the paper towel systems they were advocating were all "bypass" filters, ie on the pressure regulator discharge rather than on the main loop, so they did not filter more than a small percentage of the fuel being pumped. This is due to the fact that paper towels can't withstand a very high differential pressure. According to RichH, the rated size of a filter is based upon what size particles it can remove on a single pass. A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steve,
Your approach is pretty much the solution I am tending towards. Polish using a papertowel filter followed by a Raycor. I also can't believe that some dust dosen't come out of the PT filter so a Raycor following seems the solution. Doug s/v Callista "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steve,
Your approach is pretty much the solution I am tending towards. Polish using a papertowel filter followed by a Raycor. I also can't believe that some dust dosen't come out of the PT filter so a Raycor following seems the solution. Doug s/v Callista "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steven Shelikoff wrote:
..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steven Shelikoff wrote:
..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Sounds good but it might take a while.
Doug Dotson wrote: Take a while to what? Polish the tank? Transfer is what I was thinking of. It's a good idea to have a polishing system that you can run underway so when the tanks start sloshing, you can get the crud that is getting stirred up out of there. .... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. So, if a TP filter grabs X amount of gunk on Y passes, then a proper filter element would grab ? on fewer passes? Of course you need to change it, and a lot of the paper towel/TP filter theory seems to revolve around the idea that you shouldn't have to change filter elements, which is silly IMHO. Filter elements are the cheapest insurance you can get for your engine. BTW set up the polishing/transfer pump so it can be priming pump too. Saves a lot of hassle. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Sounds good but it might take a while.
Doug Dotson wrote: Take a while to what? Polish the tank? Transfer is what I was thinking of. It's a good idea to have a polishing system that you can run underway so when the tanks start sloshing, you can get the crud that is getting stirred up out of there. .... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. So, if a TP filter grabs X amount of gunk on Y passes, then a proper filter element would grab ? on fewer passes? Of course you need to change it, and a lot of the paper towel/TP filter theory seems to revolve around the idea that you shouldn't have to change filter elements, which is silly IMHO. Filter elements are the cheapest insurance you can get for your engine. BTW set up the polishing/transfer pump so it can be priming pump too. Saves a lot of hassle. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Doug,
My poslishing/transfer system will be totally separate from the engine system. I do have an electric priming pump that is a godsend. Plan on installing dual electric lift pumps on the engine. Doug "DSK" wrote in message ... Sounds good but it might take a while. Doug Dotson wrote: Take a while to what? Polish the tank? Transfer is what I was thinking of. It's a good idea to have a polishing system that you can run underway so when the tanks start sloshing, you can get the crud that is getting stirred up out of there. .... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. So, if a TP filter grabs X amount of gunk on Y passes, then a proper filter element would grab ? on fewer passes? Of course you need to change it, and a lot of the paper towel/TP filter theory seems to revolve around the idea that you shouldn't have to change filter elements, which is silly IMHO. Filter elements are the cheapest insurance you can get for your engine. BTW set up the polishing/transfer pump so it can be priming pump too. Saves a lot of hassle. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Doug,
My poslishing/transfer system will be totally separate from the engine system. I do have an electric priming pump that is a godsend. Plan on installing dual electric lift pumps on the engine. Doug "DSK" wrote in message ... Sounds good but it might take a while. Doug Dotson wrote: Take a while to what? Polish the tank? Transfer is what I was thinking of. It's a good idea to have a polishing system that you can run underway so when the tanks start sloshing, you can get the crud that is getting stirred up out of there. .... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. So, if a TP filter grabs X amount of gunk on Y passes, then a proper filter element would grab ? on fewer passes? Of course you need to change it, and a lot of the paper towel/TP filter theory seems to revolve around the idea that you shouldn't have to change filter elements, which is silly IMHO. Filter elements are the cheapest insurance you can get for your engine. BTW set up the polishing/transfer pump so it can be priming pump too. Saves a lot of hassle. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:33:12 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: Steve, Your approach is pretty much the solution I am tending towards. Polish using a papertowel filter followed by a Raycor. I also can't believe that some dust dosen't come out of the PT filter so a Raycor following seems the solution. Here's a picture of my installation. http://members.ispwest.com/shelikoff/trip/Image20.jpg The two GCF filters are the black cylinders center left. The Racor after them is the white one lower left. The engine final filter isn't visible but it's just behind the air intake, which is just behind the oil fill. The plumbing behind the filters lets me do things like bypass the filters so I can change them when the engine is running, power prime the engine, shutoff fuel to the engine while I'm polishing, etc. The pump isn't visible but the hose in front coming off the Racor with the vacuum gauge on it leads to the pump. Closer up, http://members.ispwest.com/shelikoff/trip/Image18.jpg Yes, it looks like a plumbers nightmare.:) But it's all pretty straight foward to figure out and operate. Normally, all valves are open except for the one letting fuel bypass the GCF filters. There are 3 vacuum gauges, one before the GCF filters, one between the GCF and the Racor and one after the Racor. If the vacuum difference is more then a couple of lbs between the input and output of a filter, it's time for an element change. "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 13:33:12 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: Steve, Your approach is pretty much the solution I am tending towards. Polish using a papertowel filter followed by a Raycor. I also can't believe that some dust dosen't come out of the PT filter so a Raycor following seems the solution. Here's a picture of my installation. http://members.ispwest.com/shelikoff/trip/Image20.jpg The two GCF filters are the black cylinders center left. The Racor after them is the white one lower left. The engine final filter isn't visible but it's just behind the air intake, which is just behind the oil fill. The plumbing behind the filters lets me do things like bypass the filters so I can change them when the engine is running, power prime the engine, shutoff fuel to the engine while I'm polishing, etc. The pump isn't visible but the hose in front coming off the Racor with the vacuum gauge on it leads to the pump. Closer up, http://members.ispwest.com/shelikoff/trip/Image18.jpg Yes, it looks like a plumbers nightmare.:) But it's all pretty straight foward to figure out and operate. Normally, all valves are open except for the one letting fuel bypass the GCF filters. There are 3 vacuum gauges, one before the GCF filters, one between the GCF and the Racor and one after the Racor. If the vacuum difference is more then a couple of lbs between the input and output of a filter, it's time for an element change. "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 11:03:52 -0500, "Doug Dotson" wrote: This helps alot, thanks! LaBomba suggested that just amking the primary filter bigger would solve the problem. I was thinking that this might be a easier solution, but it appears that a separate polishing system does have advantages over just using a filter that does not clog up so quickly. My intended strategy is to oly fill one tank at a time, set the newly filled tank to polishing while running the engine off of the other tank. Then when the engine tank gets low, switch the engine to the polished tank, then fill and polish the other tank. That way I always have clean fuel ready and waiting (and plenty of it) and I don;t have to rush to fill again. I'm still in a quandry about Raycor style filters vs the paper towel roll type. Perhaps RichH will chime in on this one since he is an expert on filtration systems. Does Safeway carry 15 uM paper towels? RichH doesn't like the paper towel or TP filters. He's said they shed material and that they can pass some fluid unfiltered by the edge. This, I agree, makes them unsuitable as the only filter for an engine. However, I think they are great for fuel polishing very dirty fuel *if* you have a good quality filter, like a Racor, after them to trap any shed material and the tiny percentage of unfiltered fuel. For recirculating fuel polishing, it doesn't matter if they let some unfiltered fuel past since it'll get filtered next time around. And I've found that the Racor beyond the paper filters last *much* longer trapping the tiny amount of shed fibers from the TP filter then if they got the dirty fuel directly without the TP filter. The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. On my boat, I got into some rough weather that stirred the fuel up and clogged the Racor I had at the time in only around 20 mins. I put in my backup element and it also clogged in around 20 mins. So I was stuck without a filter. I ended up having to take fuel out of the main tank, manually pour it through a funnel with a paper towel sheet in it like a coffee filter and into another tank and run the engine from that with only the primary engine filter beyond that. The paper towel sheet had lots of black particles on it after filtering only a small amount of fuel, like a half gallon. After that experience, I installed a pair of the TP filters, the walbro pump, etc., from the trawlerworld site. Without cleaning the tank, I've not had a single dirty fuel problem since. The used TP rolls come out with a lot of black on them. The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. I monitor the filter condition with vacuum gauges. When I'm polishing, fuel goes through a pair of TP filters and then through the 2 micron Racor and back to the tank. The fact that the 2 micron Racor is still clean after 2 years with a very dirty tank tells me that the TP filters are doing something, especially since I clogged 2 of the Racors after 20 minutes without the TP filters. Fuel going to the engine goes through one more filter, the engine mounted final filter. I'm not sure what particle size that's rated for but it's probably a 10 or 15 micron. Yes, my results are entirely non-scientific. I've not done any measurements of how well the filters are working. I only know they are working great for me. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:01:15 -0500, DSK wrote:
Steven Shelikoff wrote: ..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. That hasn't been my experience with them. My experience is that they do not shed significantly (they haven't clogged the 2 micron Racor behind them yet) and that they do trap a lot of particles. I guess they also make good water separaters but I wouldn't know that since I've never had a problem with water in my fuel even before I put on the GCF filters. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You lol, not quite. Otherwise, we'd be changing Racor elements every time we start the engine. Unlike condoms, the Racor elements are safe to keep using until they get dirty. could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. That also hasn't been anywhere near my experience. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. My Racor is very easy to change. The engine mounted filter a little less easy, but it's still only a 10 minute job. Changing either of them required bleeding the fuel system though. With what I have now, I can change either the GCF filter or the Racor and not get any air into the engine. I can shut off fuel to the engine and bleed the part of the system with those filters with the walbro pump. I can even change the GCF filters and bypass them to keep the engine running if it's necessary. I do have to shut off fuel to the engine to bleed them properly, although filling them with fuel before putting the lid on really helps there so if it was really an emergency, I could probably keep the engine running. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. The main problem is that I had to change 2 of the Racor elements when the engine died after operating only 20 minutes each. And with the amount of crud in the tank, that trend was likely to continue for a long time. That's totally unacceptable no matter how cheap you get the elements (they're still expensive even by the case) or how many you carry. The GCF 01-Jr filters before the Racor totally solved the problem and cost me about the same as having the tank cleaned and the fuel in it polished. Now, I have that accomplished and still have the system installed for future use. I know a lot of people here will tell you a lot of bad things about the GCF PT or TP filters. But probably none of those people actually used them to solve a specific problem. I have first hand experience and for me, they're working great. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:01:15 -0500, DSK wrote:
Steven Shelikoff wrote: ..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. That hasn't been my experience with them. My experience is that they do not shed significantly (they haven't clogged the 2 micron Racor behind them yet) and that they do trap a lot of particles. I guess they also make good water separaters but I wouldn't know that since I've never had a problem with water in my fuel even before I put on the GCF filters. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You lol, not quite. Otherwise, we'd be changing Racor elements every time we start the engine. Unlike condoms, the Racor elements are safe to keep using until they get dirty. could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. That also hasn't been anywhere near my experience. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. My Racor is very easy to change. The engine mounted filter a little less easy, but it's still only a 10 minute job. Changing either of them required bleeding the fuel system though. With what I have now, I can change either the GCF filter or the Racor and not get any air into the engine. I can shut off fuel to the engine and bleed the part of the system with those filters with the walbro pump. I can even change the GCF filters and bypass them to keep the engine running if it's necessary. I do have to shut off fuel to the engine to bleed them properly, although filling them with fuel before putting the lid on really helps there so if it was really an emergency, I could probably keep the engine running. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. The main problem is that I had to change 2 of the Racor elements when the engine died after operating only 20 minutes each. And with the amount of crud in the tank, that trend was likely to continue for a long time. That's totally unacceptable no matter how cheap you get the elements (they're still expensive even by the case) or how many you carry. The GCF 01-Jr filters before the Racor totally solved the problem and cost me about the same as having the tank cleaned and the fuel in it polished. Now, I have that accomplished and still have the system installed for future use. I know a lot of people here will tell you a lot of bad things about the GCF PT or TP filters. But probably none of those people actually used them to solve a specific problem. I have first hand experience and for me, they're working great. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:06:22 -0500, DSK wrote:
.... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. /snip/ Fresh Breezes- Doug King Actually, 'depth' filters sound TERRIBLE in theory. Use a what? A toilet roll? A kitchen roll? Gimme a break. It is in practice that they do best. Over the road operators brag repeatedly about astronomical mileages - some of them practice only filter change and filter bowl oil make up only... no complete oil changes. Winnowing through the stuff from true believers, it looks like depth filters can carry a much larger particle load and can filter to smaller particulate sizes. They will certainly trap water, though I am unsure how far that reduces the filtration efficiency and/or increases particle transmission. Depth filters have plenty of background: I ran an aircraft rated depth filter made of deep cloth layers for five years in a light airplane. The brand was "Winslow" You bet the price did not compare with a kitchen roll however. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:06:22 -0500, DSK wrote:
.... A polishing system recirculates and each pass through the filter removes more because a filter is much more than just a fancy sieve. I dunno. Sounds good in theory, and as Steve says his TP filters get a lot of gunk out of there. But I still have no confidence at all that they are not shedding gunk too. /snip/ Fresh Breezes- Doug King Actually, 'depth' filters sound TERRIBLE in theory. Use a what? A toilet roll? A kitchen roll? Gimme a break. It is in practice that they do best. Over the road operators brag repeatedly about astronomical mileages - some of them practice only filter change and filter bowl oil make up only... no complete oil changes. Winnowing through the stuff from true believers, it looks like depth filters can carry a much larger particle load and can filter to smaller particulate sizes. They will certainly trap water, though I am unsure how far that reduces the filtration efficiency and/or increases particle transmission. Depth filters have plenty of background: I ran an aircraft rated depth filter made of deep cloth layers for five years in a light airplane. The brand was "Winslow" You bet the price did not compare with a kitchen roll however. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a
polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a
polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck
and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck
and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steve,
Thanks for the pics of your system. Any suggestions on TP vs PT filter? Doug "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:01:15 -0500, DSK wrote: Steven Shelikoff wrote: ..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. That hasn't been my experience with them. My experience is that they do not shed significantly (they haven't clogged the 2 micron Racor behind them yet) and that they do trap a lot of particles. I guess they also make good water separaters but I wouldn't know that since I've never had a problem with water in my fuel even before I put on the GCF filters. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You lol, not quite. Otherwise, we'd be changing Racor elements every time we start the engine. Unlike condoms, the Racor elements are safe to keep using until they get dirty. could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. That also hasn't been anywhere near my experience. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. My Racor is very easy to change. The engine mounted filter a little less easy, but it's still only a 10 minute job. Changing either of them required bleeding the fuel system though. With what I have now, I can change either the GCF filter or the Racor and not get any air into the engine. I can shut off fuel to the engine and bleed the part of the system with those filters with the walbro pump. I can even change the GCF filters and bypass them to keep the engine running if it's necessary. I do have to shut off fuel to the engine to bleed them properly, although filling them with fuel before putting the lid on really helps there so if it was really an emergency, I could probably keep the engine running. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. The main problem is that I had to change 2 of the Racor elements when the engine died after operating only 20 minutes each. And with the amount of crud in the tank, that trend was likely to continue for a long time. That's totally unacceptable no matter how cheap you get the elements (they're still expensive even by the case) or how many you carry. The GCF 01-Jr filters before the Racor totally solved the problem and cost me about the same as having the tank cleaned and the fuel in it polished. Now, I have that accomplished and still have the system installed for future use. I know a lot of people here will tell you a lot of bad things about the GCF PT or TP filters. But probably none of those people actually used them to solve a specific problem. I have first hand experience and for me, they're working great. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Steve,
Thanks for the pics of your system. Any suggestions on TP vs PT filter? Doug "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:01:15 -0500, DSK wrote: Steven Shelikoff wrote: ..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. That hasn't been my experience with them. My experience is that they do not shed significantly (they haven't clogged the 2 micron Racor behind them yet) and that they do trap a lot of particles. I guess they also make good water separaters but I wouldn't know that since I've never had a problem with water in my fuel even before I put on the GCF filters. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You lol, not quite. Otherwise, we'd be changing Racor elements every time we start the engine. Unlike condoms, the Racor elements are safe to keep using until they get dirty. could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. That also hasn't been anywhere near my experience. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. My Racor is very easy to change. The engine mounted filter a little less easy, but it's still only a 10 minute job. Changing either of them required bleeding the fuel system though. With what I have now, I can change either the GCF filter or the Racor and not get any air into the engine. I can shut off fuel to the engine and bleed the part of the system with those filters with the walbro pump. I can even change the GCF filters and bypass them to keep the engine running if it's necessary. I do have to shut off fuel to the engine to bleed them properly, although filling them with fuel before putting the lid on really helps there so if it was really an emergency, I could probably keep the engine running. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. The main problem is that I had to change 2 of the Racor elements when the engine died after operating only 20 minutes each. And with the amount of crud in the tank, that trend was likely to continue for a long time. That's totally unacceptable no matter how cheap you get the elements (they're still expensive even by the case) or how many you carry. The GCF 01-Jr filters before the Racor totally solved the problem and cost me about the same as having the tank cleaned and the fuel in it polished. Now, I have that accomplished and still have the system installed for future use. I know a lot of people here will tell you a lot of bad things about the GCF PT or TP filters. But probably none of those people actually used them to solve a specific problem. I have first hand experience and for me, they're working great. Steve |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
I had thought of a bubbling mechanism to stir the tank while polishing.
Also thought if the return from the polishing system was placed at the opposite end of the tank from the uptake it might keep things mixed up a bit. I have a draincock at the lowest of each of my tanks so draining out water and a bit of sediment is pretty easy. Doug "Len Krauss" wrote in message ... Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
I had thought of a bubbling mechanism to stir the tank while polishing.
Also thought if the return from the polishing system was placed at the opposite end of the tank from the uptake it might keep things mixed up a bit. I have a draincock at the lowest of each of my tanks so draining out water and a bit of sediment is pretty easy. Doug "Len Krauss" wrote in message ... Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
I believe that was for OIL not diesel.
Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
I believe that was for OIL not diesel.
Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Ahem...you meant mineral lubricating oil, rather than
mineral fuel oil? Brian W On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
Ahem...you meant mineral lubricating oil, rather than
mineral fuel oil? Brian W On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore
wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Not much difference between diesel and oil. Steve Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore
wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Not much difference between diesel and oil. Steve Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
THe Gulf Coast paper towel filters are popular with trucker for
extending the life of lubricating oil which is what they were originally intended for. Brian Whatcott wrote: Ahem...you meant mineral lubricating oil, rather than mineral fuel oil? Brian W On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
THe Gulf Coast paper towel filters are popular with trucker for
extending the life of lubricating oil which is what they were originally intended for. Brian Whatcott wrote: Ahem...you meant mineral lubricating oil, rather than mineral fuel oil? Brian W On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 21:17:43 -0500, Glenn Ashmore wrote: I believe that was for OIL not diesel. Rufus wrote: About 4 years ago there was a couple guys on the group who managed truck and heavy equipment fleets. They swore by the paper filters (paper towel or TP) and used them on their own personal trucks. You could probably find the threads on google. Rufus -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
That works. I put the pickup at bottom and return at top thru the filler
hole. Some people use the tank return -- they remove hose or have a three-way valve. You might be able to connect a hose to your draincock -- which would simplify things. Len I had thought of a bubbling mechanism to stir the tank while polishing. Also thought if the return from the polishing system was placed at the opposite end of the tank from the uptake it might keep things mixed up a bit. I have a draincock at the lowest of each of my tanks so draining out water and a bit of sediment is pretty easy. Doug "Len Krauss" wrote in message ... Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
That works. I put the pickup at bottom and return at top thru the filler
hole. Some people use the tank return -- they remove hose or have a three-way valve. You might be able to connect a hose to your draincock -- which would simplify things. Len I had thought of a bubbling mechanism to stir the tank while polishing. Also thought if the return from the polishing system was placed at the opposite end of the tank from the uptake it might keep things mixed up a bit. I have a draincock at the lowest of each of my tanks so draining out water and a bit of sediment is pretty easy. Doug "Len Krauss" wrote in message ... Concerns were expressed on this thread about pulling too much flow thru a polishing filter. I polish with a Racor 500 in a stand-alone system. Some time ago I called Racor and found out it's cartridge is rated for 20-25psi. I equipped my polishing system with a vacuum gauge, same as on my engine. Vacuum can then be monitored and regulated in a couple ways. One way is variable speed pump. The other uses a bypass valve, so that not all fuel being pumped goes thru pump. I'll usually keep the filter vacuum around 10 psi to be conservative. When it rises 5psi that's sign the filter is getting clogged. As for stirring up the crud, one guy told me he shoots a jet of air around the bottom of his tanks. Has a small L-shaped copper tube on an air hose, and with it tied to a dowel/rod pushes it to bottom and "aims" it around. He'll them sometimes just let the thing bubble away while polishing to help keep particulate matter in suspension. Before "bubbling" the tank or doing anything else, first pump a quart or two off the bottom into glass jar and check for water. And continue this, discarding the water, until no more is seen. FWIW. Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
Fuel transfer/polishing pump
On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 20:36:38 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote: Steve, Thanks for the pics of your system. Any suggestions on TP vs PT filter? I'd say that if you have the room, go for the big one. I didn't have the room for the height of the PT filter so I went with 2 TP filters. For the elements, I use the 1000 sheet Scott rolls. They're tightly wound, dense, and when compressed into the cartridge and soaked in fuel oil make a surprisingly solid mass. It's interesting that when you soak a roll of TP in water, it falls apart but when you soak it in diesel, it becomes a strong solid element. Steve "Steven Shelikoff" wrote in message ... On Fri, 28 Nov 2003 18:01:15 -0500, DSK wrote: Steven Shelikoff wrote: ..The main advantage of the paper depth filters is that they can filter down to very small particle size and they can hold a whole lot of crud, large and small, without clogging up. IOW, perfect for fuel polishing. IMHO the only benefit is that they soak up a lot of water. They probably do trap a lot of particles but also shed them. That hasn't been my experience with them. My experience is that they do not shed significantly (they haven't clogged the 2 micron Racor behind them yet) and that they do trap a lot of particles. I guess they also make good water separaters but I wouldn't know that since I've never had a problem with water in my fuel even before I put on the GCF filters. .... The Racor 2 micron filter that's past the TP filters is now 2 years old and is still clean. That's like bragging about how many times you can use the same condom. You lol, not quite. Otherwise, we'd be changing Racor elements every time we start the engine. Unlike condoms, the Racor elements are safe to keep using until they get dirty. could have spent the same amount of money on filter elements instead of the TP filter system, and have cleaner fuel. That also hasn't been anywhere near my experience. A lot of boats have their primary fuel filter in a difficult location. That's not an excuse to try and stretch the filter, it's a reason to either 1- buy a different boat or 2- remake the system so that you can change the filter element easily & quickly. My Racor is very easy to change. The engine mounted filter a little less easy, but it's still only a 10 minute job. Changing either of them required bleeding the fuel system though. With what I have now, I can change either the GCF filter or the Racor and not get any air into the engine. I can shut off fuel to the engine and bleed the part of the system with those filters with the walbro pump. I can even change the GCF filters and bypass them to keep the engine running if it's necessary. I do have to shut off fuel to the engine to bleed them properly, although filling them with fuel before putting the lid on really helps there so if it was really an emergency, I could probably keep the engine running. BTW if you buy filter elements by the carton, you can carry a lot of them and not pay much. The main problem is that I had to change 2 of the Racor elements when the engine died after operating only 20 minutes each. And with the amount of crud in the tank, that trend was likely to continue for a long time. That's totally unacceptable no matter how cheap you get the elements (they're still expensive even by the case) or how many you carry. The GCF 01-Jr filters before the Racor totally solved the problem and cost me about the same as having the tank cleaned and the fuel in it polished. Now, I have that accomplished and still have the system installed for future use. I know a lot of people here will tell you a lot of bad things about the GCF PT or TP filters. But probably none of those people actually used them to solve a specific problem. I have first hand experience and for me, they're working great. Steve |
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