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Roger Long
 
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Default PoliGlow on AwlGrip - or, what??

I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do
it.

A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there
living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn
into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to
remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a
conspiracy?

Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further
deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish
restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that
route this year just because of the time and hassle factor.

--

Roger Long



"Skip Gundlach" wrote in message
oups.com...
Answering my own question, and changing the topic, as there's more
heat
than light now, in the original:

SKIP,

POLI GLOW WOULD REALLY BE IDEAL FOR AWLGRIP THAT IS OLDER THAN
YOURS.
SAY MAYBE IN THE 7-10 YEAR RANGE.

THANK YOU.

TODD BRYANT

POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC.
www.poliglowproducts.com


So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else
might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced
glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment.

Thanks, as always...

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at
your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you
never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything
in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."



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posted to rec.boats.cruising
Richard J Kinch
 
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Default PoliGlow on AwlGrip - or, what??

Roger Long writes:

Do I smell a conspiracy?


At $40/quart for a dilute acrylic emulsion, the conspiracy may be on
both sides.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.b...34636863f7021/
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
Ed
 
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Default PoliGlow on AwlGrip - or, what??

WRONG..... I do NOT wax boats for a living.. .I just use them...
Poliglow looks great for a year or two (Average ownership interval for
most boat owners) but after a year or so it starts building up, turning
yellow and then if you left it on long enough... yes aligator crazing.
It took my longer to remove it that it did to have waxed my boat for
those 2 years. ALSO... the diesel grunge somehow blended with it
because I could not remove the diesel grunge on the transom without
removing the poli-crap.

There is no free lunch... wax your boat

Roger Long wrote:

I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do
it.

A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there
living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn
into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to
remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a
conspiracy?

Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further
deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish
restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that
route this year just because of the time and hassle factor.


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Keith
 
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Default PoliGlow on AwlGrip - or, what??

There was a good article in Power Cruising this month about hull
treatments. It talked about waxes, poli-glow and the like, and
painting. They said that you had to both prep and remove poli-glow with
the manufacturer's product, as has been said here before. What I didn't
know was that it basically works like varnish. You have to put up to
six coats of the stuff on, then renew it at least annually with another
coat or two, just like varnish. If the coating breaks down and opens up
to the fiberglass, it can be repaired, but it's visible. Best to remove
the entire batch and start over if this happens. I'll still stick with
wax.

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