Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do it. A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a conspiracy? Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that route this year just because of the time and hassle factor. -- Roger Long "Skip Gundlach" wrote in message oups.com... Answering my own question, and changing the topic, as there's more heat than light now, in the original: SKIP, POLI GLOW WOULD REALLY BE IDEAL FOR AWLGRIP THAT IS OLDER THAN YOURS. SAY MAYBE IN THE 7-10 YEAR RANGE. THANK YOU. TODD BRYANT POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC. www.poliglowproducts.com So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment. Thanks, as always... L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Roger Long writes:
Do I smell a conspiracy? At $40/quart for a dilute acrylic emulsion, the conspiracy may be on both sides. http://groups.google.com/group/rec.b...34636863f7021/ |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
WRONG..... I do NOT wax boats for a living.. .I just use them...
Poliglow looks great for a year or two (Average ownership interval for most boat owners) but after a year or so it starts building up, turning yellow and then if you left it on long enough... yes aligator crazing. It took my longer to remove it that it did to have waxed my boat for those 2 years. ALSO... the diesel grunge somehow blended with it because I could not remove the diesel grunge on the transom without removing the poli-crap. There is no free lunch... wax your boat Roger Long wrote: I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do it. A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a conspiracy? Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that route this year just because of the time and hassle factor. |
#4
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
There was a good article in Power Cruising this month about hull
treatments. It talked about waxes, poli-glow and the like, and painting. They said that you had to both prep and remove poli-glow with the manufacturer's product, as has been said here before. What I didn't know was that it basically works like varnish. You have to put up to six coats of the stuff on, then renew it at least annually with another coat or two, just like varnish. If the coating breaks down and opens up to the fiberglass, it can be repaired, but it's visible. Best to remove the entire batch and start over if this happens. I'll still stick with wax. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Cleaning the hull | Cruising |