There was a good article in Power Cruising this month about hull
treatments. It talked about waxes, poli-glow and the like, and
painting. They said that you had to both prep and remove poli-glow with
the manufacturer's product, as has been said here before. What I didn't
know was that it basically works like varnish. You have to put up to
six coats of the stuff on, then renew it at least annually with another
coat or two, just like varnish. If the coating breaks down and opens up
to the fiberglass, it can be repaired, but it's visible. Best to remove
the entire batch and start over if this happens. I'll still stick with
wax.

I know you will deny it but I bet you either work for Poli-glow or own a
piece of it....

You are the ONLY one on these NGs supporting it.... everyone else is
trashing it.



Mys Terry wrote:

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 07:15:28 -0400, Ed wrote:


WRONG..... I do NOT wax boats for a living.. .I just use them...
Poliglow looks great for a year or two (Average ownership interval for
most boat owners) but after a year or so it starts building up, turning
yellow and then if you left it on long enough... yes aligator crazing.
It took my longer to remove it that it did to have waxed my boat for
those 2 years. ALSO... the diesel grunge somehow blended with it
because I could not remove the diesel grunge on the transom without
removing the poli-crap.



My white hulled boat has had poliglow on it for 8 years, and there is
no (NONE) yellowing. Practical Sailor has conducted long term testing
of Poliglow and several competitors. They confirm that it does not
yellow and they further report that they have heard the bogus claims
about difficulty removing the product and found them to be, well,
BOGUS.



Roger Long wrote:


I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do
it.

A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there
living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn
into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to
remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a
conspiracy?

Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further
deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish
restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that
route this year just because of the time and hassle factor.

In article ,
says...

(Snip)


My white hulled boat has had poliglow on it for 8 years, and there is
no (NONE) yellowing. Practical Sailor has conducted long term testing
of Poliglow and several competitors. They confirm that it does not
yellow and they further report that they have heard the bogus claims
about difficulty removing the product and found them to be, well,
BOGUS.

(Snip)

I am reading this thread AFTER I put six coats of Poliglow on the hull. And
that was after reading reviews and comments and watching another man at the
yard put it on his boat while otherg all around were compounding and
waxing. It was a two-day job. One to thoroughly clean the hull (we tried
their prep material but it didn't work worth a damn) and one to apply the
six coats. We are pleased with the results so far, especially considering
that we have never waxed the boat in the ten years we have owned her. Don't
know about yellowing, certainly not yet. But if it occurs it may never be
visible as the boat is cream-colored.

Launched yesterday. Scratched already.

In article ,
says...


I know you will deny it but I bet you either work for Poli-glow or own a
piece of it....

You are the ONLY one on these NGs supporting it.... everyone else is
trashing it.

I am not trashing it. And I have read plenty of comments from other who
like it.

Gogarty wrote:

Launched yesterday. Scratched already.


Sigh. Yep--that's boating for you ;-)

Don W.

In article ,
says...


On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 13:57:14 -0400, Gogarty said:

One to thoroughly clean the hull (we tried
their prep material but it didn't work worth a damn)

I found that for very heavily oxidized and faded areas I needed to use wet
and dry sandpaper, followed by the prep material scrubbed with a Scotch type
pad on a small orbital sander. Hand scrubbing just didn't do the job of
getting the color back.

For cleaning and prep, we used Scotchbrite pads and one of those heavy duty
degreasers full strength from a spray bottle, followed with lots of fresh
water rinse. When done, the water "sheeted" on the entire hull, no beads at
all. Everything bought at Home Depot. I am really surprised and pleased at
how well the colored bootstripe and sheer stripe came out. They were totally
oxidized. As for the cream-colored hull itself, it looks very good. You can
see your face in it.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote:

So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else
might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced
glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment.

We used New Glass for awhile, and it was very easy to use, but it did
eventually get scruffy if we didn't apply more regularly.

Now Bob uses Penetrol. Similarly easy to apply (no buffing) and takes
three or four coats and has to be renewed sometimes.

We've never used PoliGlow.

But our boat has not been painted except for the stripes (2) and
trailboards. We've used Penetrol on the stripes, but that wasn't
Awl-Gripped - it was just epoxy paint. It works there though. When
Bob moved the waterline up onto the boot stripe, the paint didn't
stick there, so I guess he had not removed everything there. We've
also used it on the cabin top.

Bob has applied Treadmaster to the walkways and cockpit. Bob insists
that people on deck wear shoes if we are underway. He feels that bare
feet are a safety hazard. My feet are tougher than his because I go
barefoot a lot so I can walk barefoot on the Treadmaster and he
cannot, but I have proved to myself that when barefoot, I slip more in
areas where the Treadmaster has not been applied than when I have
shoes on.




grandma Rosalie

S/V RosalieAnn, Leonardtown, MD
CSY 44 WO #156
http://home.mindspring.com/~gmbeasley/id1.html

I am 4 coats in. The cleaner worked pretty well a prepping, not a a
great cleaner, but I had already cleaned with some 3M Oxider remover.
The Poli prep just took off any residue and airborn dirt.

Looks pretty good. I will post some more pictures here in the next
day. www.l-y-n-c-h.com/akula



Don W wrote:
Gogarty wrote:

Launched yesterday. Scratched already.


Sigh. Yep--that's boating for you ;-)

Don W.

Some kind of link issue this should work?

http://www.l-y-n-c-h.com/Akula/index.htm

Or you could read the comparison article on PoliGlo and various other
products in Jul 1, 1998 issue of Practical Sailor.


"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 00:44:20 GMT, "Roger Long" said:

Actually, this would be a great use for an old dinghy. Poli Glo on
one side, floor finish on the other. In 5 - 6 years, someone would
have a great and useful post for this group.

Here's a simpler test to give at least a partial answer.

Wipe on a single coat of floor polish in one area of the dinghy. Wipe on a
single coat of Poli Glo in an adjacent area. After both dry, compare the
shine in the two areas. If the hypothesis that they differ in that Poli
Glo
fills the pores in the fiberglass before building a shine and floor polish
doesn't, you should immediately be able to see that the area with the
floor
polish is shinier after a single application.