Answering my own question, and changing the topic, as there's more heat
than light now, in the original:

SKIP,

POLI GLOW WOULD REALLY BE IDEAL FOR AWLGRIP THAT IS OLDER THAN YOURS.
SAY MAYBE IN THE 7-10 YEAR RANGE.

THANK YOU.

TODD BRYANT

POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC.
www.poliglowproducts.com


So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else
might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced
glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment.

Thanks, as always...

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Evidently, the prior thread with a reply from poliglow was between a
poster and a retailer, not the company. This is what I got from the
company:

From:
To:
Subject: use over awl-grip
Date: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 11:03 AM

CHECK WITH AWLGRIP ITSELF TO SEE WHAT THEY APPLY TO THEIR PAINTS, OR
WEST MARINE, BOAT US MAY HAVE SOMETHING TOO.

REGARDS,
TODD

POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC.
www.poliglowproducts.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip - Back on the boat, online over wifi

To:
Sent: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:58:00 -0400
Subject: use over awl-grip


Hi, Todd, and thanks for the bounceback.

Given that only the cabintop not-nonskid areas are that way, now, what
would you suggest for all the awlgrip currently present?

As many as have raved over the perfect gloss results of properly
applied PoliGlow, that's very disappointing news, but I'd like to get a
better look than I have now...

Thanks again for the info.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 8:50 AM
Subject: use over awl-grip


SKIP,

POLI GLOW WOULD REALLY BE IDEAL FOR AWLGRIP THAT IS OLDER THAN YOURS.
SAY MAYBE IN THE 7-10 YEAR RANGE.

THANK YOU.

TODD BRYANT

POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC.
www.poliglowproducts.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip - Back on the boat, online over wifi

To:
Sent: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 01:13:07 -0400
Subject: use over awl-grip


Hi...

There's an extensive thread in rec.boats.cruising, and one developing
in the morgan mailing lists, about Poliglow.

I understand from reading a reply from your tech support to another
sailor that older gelcoat is ideal for this product.

What would you recommend for relatively (2-5 years) recent, and a
section of new (1 year) properly applied awl-grip?

We've got probably 400SF or slightly more, certainly more if we include
the topsides slick areas (not nonskid), to cover, and the boat's just
finishing an extensive refit. We'd like to use this product if it's
appropriate, as all reviews suggest that it's easy to maintain and
gives a stunning appearance to gelcoat...

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

From: Don W

Skip,

How is the older Awlgrip looking at this point?


The paint on the sides of the boat is presumed to be Awl-Grip, but it's
like the rest of this boat's representations before we bought it: "New"
means since they bought it, not necessarily any time recent to the
sale. So, what I thought was new Awl-Grip is more likely 10-15 minimum
years old, particularly since it's been on the hard for just over 2
years.

As such, the topsides, which I presume to have had only the non-skid
areas badly redone in gray (redone by my contractor in white, with
actual nonskid, rather than just a paint-over of the original, perhaps
also repainted, tread areas), and the sides of the cabin house badly
weathered, along with most of the striping/non-nonskid areas, so that
will be a great candidate for PoliGlow.

However, the sides are also chalking, and my contractor is certain it's
paint and not gelcoat. He's got a test he'll do to determine whether
it's AG or something else, and then we'll make up our minds about
whether we want to do something with PG or more conventional muscle and
buffer.

Either way, I'd like to make it look at least as good as it did when we
bought it. The PO and his daughter's boyfriend and the tech/mech who'd
been looking after the boat in the 15 years he owned it spent three
weeks in a yard working on it prior to our purchase. That was
represented as a "addressing all the things which might turn up on a
surveyor's punch list" - but my experience has convinced me that it
was, instead, strictly cosmetic, without any of what the surveyor would
otherwise call out even glanced at.

OTOH, if you click the URL in my sig, you'll see that the exterior
looked very good when we surveyed her - I'd like to achieve that or
better, this time around. Current state is pretty easy to see in the
various pix in the M46Projects gallery of recent vintage. Not bad, but
not glowing, either...

Thanks for asking.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do
it.

A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there
living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn
into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to
remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a
conspiracy?

Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further
deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish
restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that
route this year just because of the time and hassle factor.

--

Roger Long



"Skip Gundlach" wrote in message
oups.com...
Answering my own question, and changing the topic, as there's more
heat
than light now, in the original:

SKIP,

POLI GLOW WOULD REALLY BE IDEAL FOR AWLGRIP THAT IS OLDER THAN
YOURS.
SAY MAYBE IN THE 7-10 YEAR RANGE.

THANK YOU.

TODD BRYANT

POLI GLOW PRODUCTS, INC.
www.poliglowproducts.com


So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else
might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced
glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment.

Thanks, as always...

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely
nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing,
messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats.
In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter,
that's the charm of it.
Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at
your
destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you
never
get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything
in
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to
do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."

Roger Long writes:

Do I smell a conspiracy?

At $40/quart for a dilute acrylic emulsion, the conspiracy may be on
both sides.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.b...34636863f7021/

WRONG..... I do NOT wax boats for a living.. .I just use them...
Poliglow looks great for a year or two (Average ownership interval for
most boat owners) but after a year or so it starts building up, turning
yellow and then if you left it on long enough... yes aligator crazing.
It took my longer to remove it that it did to have waxed my boat for
those 2 years. ALSO... the diesel grunge somehow blended with it
because I could not remove the diesel grunge on the transom without
removing the poli-crap.

There is no free lunch... wax your boat

Roger Long wrote:

I just asked the wax guy at my yard about stripping the wax before
launch so I could put on Poli Glo in the water. He didn't want to do
it.

A pretty clear picture is emerging, 100% of people who make there
living waxing boats say the Poli Glo and similar products will turn
into an alligator mess in a few years that will cost a fortune to
remove. So far, 100% of users reporting say it's great. Do I smell a
conspiracy?

Once assured that I just want a holding action to slow or halt further
deterioration of my topside and am not trying to have the finish
restored, he agreed to throw on a coat of wax. I'll probably go that
route this year just because of the time and hassle factor.

There was a good article in Power Cruising this month about hull
treatments. It talked about waxes, poli-glow and the like, and
painting. They said that you had to both prep and remove poli-glow with
the manufacturer's product, as has been said here before. What I didn't
know was that it basically works like varnish. You have to put up to
six coats of the stuff on, then renew it at least annually with another
coat or two, just like varnish. If the coating breaks down and opens up
to the fiberglass, it can be repaired, but it's visible. Best to remove
the entire batch and start over if this happens. I'll still stick with
wax.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote:

So, I'm stuck. I'm waiting for a response from them as to what else
might be appropriate - but solicit opinion from experienced
glass-look-achievers WRT Awl-Gripped surfaces' treatment.

We used New Glass for awhile, and it was very easy to use, but it did
eventually get scruffy if we didn't apply more regularly.

Now Bob uses Penetrol. Similarly easy to apply (no buffing) and takes
three or four coats and has to be renewed sometimes.

We've never used PoliGlow.

But our boat has not been painted except for the stripes (2) and
trailboards. We've used Penetrol on the stripes, but that wasn't
Awl-Gripped - it was just epoxy paint. It works there though. When
Bob moved the waterline up onto the boot stripe, the paint didn't
stick there, so I guess he had not removed everything there. We've
also used it on the cabin top.

Bob has applied Treadmaster to the walkways and cockpit. Bob insists
that people on deck wear shoes if we are underway. He feels that bare
feet are a safety hazard. My feet are tougher than his because I go
barefoot a lot so I can walk barefoot on the Treadmaster and he
cannot, but I have proved to myself that when barefoot, I slip more in
areas where the Treadmaster has not been applied than when I have
shoes on.




grandma Rosalie

S/V RosalieAnn, Leonardtown, MD
CSY 44 WO #156
http://home.mindspring.com/~gmbeasley/id1.html