Rich,
I saw a boat done in "Honey Teak" and it looked real dark. Is that the
normal color for it? Or maybe was it just the wood?
I have been told that the acrylics are great except around stanchions or
anywhere where the water may get under it and lift. I have all varnished
teak on my floating piece of furniture and I had thought about trying the
cap rail with Bristol or Honey Teak if there wasn't much difference to
notice from the toe rail. I use 2015 Flagship varnish now and if I am lucky
I may get 6 months before a recoat.
I would paint a piece of teak white in a heartbeat before I would ever apply
Cetol but that's just my opinion. I have a neighbor that uses it and just
"slaps" it on over the peeling Cetol stuff and it looks like a bad house
paint job but then again he has oysters growing on the side of the hull!
Phil

"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

Any joint that can 'work' butts, scarfs will break integrity and
promote loss of adhesion.... no matter if varnish, acrylics, and the
ever popular orange boat paint.

Honey Teak, etc. will be fairly dark when you first apply, but will
fade over a short time to an amber glow - similar to oil based
varnishes.
If the teak darkens too much, you can bleach with oxalic, etc. to
lighten before large scale applications and with apparently no adhesion
problems later on.

I have acres of Burmese teak and 'everything' that I put on will
darken; therefore, I bleach it first with oxalic. I also before *any*
coating cover with saran and let the sun 'develop' the color and hue
for several days/weeks before bleaching and coating.

Additional comments with Honey Teak, varnish, etc. .... I usually do a
hand-rub finish step to develop the irridescent 'patina' of the wood.
This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down. .... Hand rubbing is usually only found on
mega-yachts with unlimited budgets, Hinckleys at boat shows, museums,
etc. If you only slap on successive coats and dont hand rub, all you
get is coated wood; if however, you also hand rub then you get
perfection that 'glows.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 03:09:44 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down.

===========================

I'm not doubting you but am curious to know more about your technique.
Do you rub with an abrasive polishing compound like pumice or
rottenstone?

First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin. For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 13:46:27 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:
First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin.

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================

For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

In article , Wayne.B
wrote:

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================
Use a soft cloth. I just use a clean bare hand.