Any joint that can 'work' butts, scarfs will break integrity and
promote loss of adhesion.... no matter if varnish, acrylics, and the
ever popular orange boat paint.

Honey Teak, etc. will be fairly dark when you first apply, but will
fade over a short time to an amber glow - similar to oil based
varnishes.
If the teak darkens too much, you can bleach with oxalic, etc. to
lighten before large scale applications and with apparently no adhesion
problems later on.

I have acres of Burmese teak and 'everything' that I put on will
darken; therefore, I bleach it first with oxalic. I also before *any*
coating cover with saran and let the sun 'develop' the color and hue
for several days/weeks before bleaching and coating.

Additional comments with Honey Teak, varnish, etc. .... I usually do a
hand-rub finish step to develop the irridescent 'patina' of the wood.
This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down. .... Hand rubbing is usually only found on
mega-yachts with unlimited budgets, Hinckleys at boat shows, museums,
etc. If you only slap on successive coats and dont hand rub, all you
get is coated wood; if however, you also hand rub then you get
perfection that 'glows.