Any joint that can 'work' butts, scarfs will break integrity and
promote loss of adhesion.... no matter if varnish, acrylics, and the
ever popular orange boat paint.

Honey Teak, etc. will be fairly dark when you first apply, but will
fade over a short time to an amber glow - similar to oil based
varnishes.
If the teak darkens too much, you can bleach with oxalic, etc. to
lighten before large scale applications and with apparently no adhesion
problems later on.

I have acres of Burmese teak and 'everything' that I put on will
darken; therefore, I bleach it first with oxalic. I also before *any*
coating cover with saran and let the sun 'develop' the color and hue
for several days/weeks before bleaching and coating.

Additional comments with Honey Teak, varnish, etc. .... I usually do a
hand-rub finish step to develop the irridescent 'patina' of the wood.
This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down. .... Hand rubbing is usually only found on
mega-yachts with unlimited budgets, Hinckleys at boat shows, museums,
etc. If you only slap on successive coats and dont hand rub, all you
get is coated wood; if however, you also hand rub then you get
perfection that 'glows.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 03:09:44 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down.

===========================

I'm not doubting you but am curious to know more about your technique.
Do you rub with an abrasive polishing compound like pumice or
rottenstone?

First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin. For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 13:46:27 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:
First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin.

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================

For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

In article , Wayne.B
wrote:

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================
Use a soft cloth. I just use a clean bare hand.