Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old November 6th 04, 06:01 AM
Norm
 
Posts: n/a
Default Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

  #2   Report Post  
Old November 6th 04, 01:12 PM
Keith
 
Posts: n/a
Default

No, it won't ruin the wood, but it'll turn gray and the grain will become
very rough. If you ever decide to renew it, it'll take a heck of a lot of
sanding to get it smooth again. Some folks oil it, but here on the Gulf
Coast, it will just turn black. Cetol is probably the easiest stuff to work
with, if you don't mind the orange color, although they do have a gloss
topcoat now. I use Honey Teak on mine... very pretty and durable. Once
applied, it only takes a maintenance coat once a year or so.
http://www.fabulainc.com/

--


Keith
__
Things that make you go Hmmm... If Cher were to get cloned, would she be
Cher and Cher alike?
remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.



  #3   Report Post  
Old November 6th 04, 09:12 PM
rhys
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.


Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.

  #4   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 01:22 AM
Bruce on horizon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce
"rhys" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.


Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.



  #5   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 01:43 AM
Glenn Ashmore
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
...
Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product

from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce


Is that the Nauticoat line? I didn't know they made a clear primer.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com




  #6   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 01:48 AM
Doug Dotson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I am doing all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. So far it is
going very well. Easy to apply as well and purportedly
last 4 years in northern lats and 1.5 to 2 years in the tropics.

Doug
s/v Callista

remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.



  #7   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 04:17 AM
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.



After 15 years and a couple of scraping sessions, I have almost got
rid of the varnish on my teak. I don't know how hard it would be to
revarnish, and I don't intend to find out.

Most of it peeled off in the first year, bu tthere were stubborn spots
that seemed as if they would never peel.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light
  #8   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 04:40 AM
LaBomba182
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"


Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.


Total BS.

Capt. Bill
  #9   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 05:03 AM
Doug Dotson
 
Posts: n/a
Default

All my brightwork was done in Cetol ( 3 coats Lite, 3 coats clear).
Lasted a year in FL and the Bahamas and then back up
to the Chesapeake. If it is done right, it will last a while.

Doug
s/v Callista

"LaBomba182" wrote in message
...
Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"


Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.


Total BS.

Capt. Bill



  #10   Report Post  
Old November 7th 04, 05:20 AM
Rich Hampel
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing teak oil from interior veneer prior to varnishing it Richard Black Cruising 8 April 27th 04 01:13 AM
user of varnish remover on teak Dave Cruising 4 July 28th 03 01:49 PM
Teak Surfing... doesn't anyone read the papers anymore??? Calif Bill General 0 July 22nd 03 06:53 AM
The mythology of varnish Don White General 0 July 21st 03 03:37 PM
Teak Wood Varnish Rob General 4 June 30th 03 08:03 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:36 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2019 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017