Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers. I recently bought a Sceptre 41 with an oiled
interior. Much of it is in good shape and I will be able to varnish
right over the oil. However, some parts have experienced local
staining and water spots. In those areas, I need to get back to the
wood for some localized bleaching before starting to build varnish
coats.
The veneer is so thin that I am reluctant to use stripper and a hook
scraper as I would have on exterior solid teak. I don't think the oil
is thick enough to respond to a heat gun. I could try acetone or MEK
with a scrubber, I suppose. After I get the old oil off and bleach as
needed, the veneer is thick enough for one light sanding with 220
before the varnish goes on.

But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto

Ditto on TSP.
However, TSP may darken the veneer and it may have to be bleached with
dilute oxalic and then 'tinted' with dilute analine dyes (wash) to
bring it back to the same color 'hue'. This is especially true if
there has been water staining and the teak has turned 'darker'.

For color matching sometimes a teeny bit of stain or compatible dye
added to the varnish is required. Dont do the color matching if you're
over 40 yr., get a person with 'young' eyes to do the color match -
they see 'reds' better. For all tinting, etc. dont do it one step but
build up several color/tint coats.

Those who oil interior teak should be keelhauled ... eventually and
always, it turns as dark as a tomb and needs to be stripped and
bleached.

In article , Rick Itenson
wrote:

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto

Ditto on TSP.
However, TSP may darken the veneer and it may have to be bleached with
dilute oxalic and then 'tinted' with dilute analine dyes (wash) to
bring it back to the same color 'hue'. This is especially true if
there has been water staining and the teak has turned 'darker'.

For color matching sometimes a teeny bit of stain or compatible dye
added to the varnish is required. Dont do the color matching if you're
over 40 yr., get a person with 'young' eyes to do the color match -
they see 'reds' better. For all tinting, etc. dont do it one step but
build up several color/tint coats.

Those who oil interior teak should be keelhauled ... eventually and
always, it turns as dark as a tomb and needs to be stripped and
bleached.

In article , Rick Itenson
wrote:

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto

Sounds like my boat, when I bought it.

Someone recommended Methyl Hydrate followed by Murphy's Oil Cleaner (Similar
to Mr. Clean).

I cleaned theh whole interior with great results. No darkening of the
veneer. It's a messy job but well worth it.

Cheers

Matt
"Richard Black" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers. I recently bought a Sceptre 41 with an oiled
interior. Much of it is in good shape and I will be able to varnish
right over the oil. However, some parts have experienced local
staining and water spots. In those areas, I need to get back to the
wood for some localized bleaching before starting to build varnish
coats.
The veneer is so thin that I am reluctant to use stripper and a hook
scraper as I would have on exterior solid teak. I don't think the oil
is thick enough to respond to a heat gun. I could try acetone or MEK
with a scrubber, I suppose. After I get the old oil off and bleach as
needed, the veneer is thick enough for one light sanding with 220
before the varnish goes on.

But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta

Sounds like my boat, when I bought it.

Someone recommended Methyl Hydrate followed by Murphy's Oil Cleaner (Similar
to Mr. Clean).

I cleaned theh whole interior with great results. No darkening of the
veneer. It's a messy job but well worth it.

Cheers

Matt
"Richard Black" wrote in message
om...
Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers. I recently bought a Sceptre 41 with an oiled
interior. Much of it is in good shape and I will be able to varnish
right over the oil. However, some parts have experienced local
staining and water spots. In those areas, I need to get back to the
wood for some localized bleaching before starting to build varnish
coats.
The veneer is so thin that I am reluctant to use stripper and a hook
scraper as I would have on exterior solid teak. I don't think the oil
is thick enough to respond to a heat gun. I could try acetone or MEK
with a scrubber, I suppose. After I get the old oil off and bleach as
needed, the veneer is thick enough for one light sanding with 220
before the varnish goes on.

But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta

In article , Rick Itenson
wrote:

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto
In article ,
Rich Hampel wrote:

Ditto on TSP.
However, TSP may darken the veneer and it may have to be bleached with
dilute oxalic and then 'tinted' with dilute analine dyes (wash) to
bring it back to the same color 'hue'. This is especially true if
there has been water staining and the teak has turned 'darker'.

Another for TSP. Mixed to maximum concentration in warm water, it makes
a good mild paint stripper. I found it to be about perfect for mahogany,
bringing out lots of nice highlights that really brightened the interior
up.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

In article , Rick Itenson
wrote:

On 14 Apr 2004 14:01:58 -0700, (Richard Black)
wrote:

Hi all,
I wondering if any of you have ever had to remove teak oil from
interior veneers.
But maybe one of you has already been down this path?

Best regards to all,
Richard Black
S/V Saeta


Try TSP.
Rick Itenson
La Belle Aurore
Toronto
In article ,
Rich Hampel wrote:

Ditto on TSP.
However, TSP may darken the veneer and it may have to be bleached with
dilute oxalic and then 'tinted' with dilute analine dyes (wash) to
bring it back to the same color 'hue'. This is especially true if
there has been water staining and the teak has turned 'darker'.

Another for TSP. Mixed to maximum concentration in warm water, it makes
a good mild paint stripper. I found it to be about perfect for mahogany,
bringing out lots of nice highlights that really brightened the interior
up.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/