Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
 

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

No, it won't ruin the wood, but it'll turn gray and the grain will become
very rough. If you ever decide to renew it, it'll take a heck of a lot of
sanding to get it smooth again. Some folks oil it, but here on the Gulf
Coast, it will just turn black. Cetol is probably the easiest stuff to work
with, if you don't mind the orange color, although they do have a gloss
topcoat now. I use Honey Teak on mine... very pretty and durable. Once
applied, it only takes a maintenance coat once a year or so.
http://www.fabulainc.com/

--


Keith
__
Things that make you go Hmmm... If Cher were to get cloned, would she be
Cher and Cher alike?
remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce
"rhys" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.

"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
...
Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product
from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce

Is that the Nauticoat line? I didn't know they made a clear primer.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I am doing all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. So far it is
going very well. Easy to apply as well and purportedly
last 4 years in northern lats and 1.5 to 2 years in the tropics.

Doug
s/v Callista

remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.


After 15 years and a couple of scraping sessions, I have almost got
rid of the varnish on my teak. I don't know how hard it would be to
revarnish, and I don't intend to find out.

Most of it peeled off in the first year, bu tthere were stubborn spots
that seemed as if they would never peel.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light

Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.

Total BS.

Capt. Bill

All my brightwork was done in Cetol ( 3 coats Lite, 3 coats clear).
Lasted a year in FL and the Bahamas and then back up
to the Chesapeake. If it is done right, it will last a while.

Doug
s/v Callista

"LaBomba182" wrote in message
...
Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.

Total BS.

Capt. Bill

Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.