Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
 

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

No, it won't ruin the wood, but it'll turn gray and the grain will become
very rough. If you ever decide to renew it, it'll take a heck of a lot of
sanding to get it smooth again. Some folks oil it, but here on the Gulf
Coast, it will just turn black. Cetol is probably the easiest stuff to work
with, if you don't mind the orange color, although they do have a gloss
topcoat now. I use Honey Teak on mine... very pretty and durable. Once
applied, it only takes a maintenance coat once a year or so.
http://www.fabulainc.com/

--


Keith
__
Things that make you go Hmmm... If Cher were to get cloned, would she be
Cher and Cher alike?
remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce
"rhys" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

Cetol. I can live with the orangey colour as I prefer sailing to
brightwork upkeep.

I hand sand the rails down to the clean wood, smooth it with
Scotchbrite pads and a cloth dampened with acetone, and then put three
coats of Cetol on.

That will keep it nice for three seasons. I am in the Great Lakes and
cover the boat for six months a year.

During Year Three, I lightly sand and recoat twice. That gives me
another two years.

Every five years, it's a complete re-do.

R.

"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
...
Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product
from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce

Is that the Nauticoat line? I didn't know they made a clear primer.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I am doing all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. So far it is
going very well. Easy to apply as well and purportedly
last 4 years in northern lats and 1.5 to 2 years in the tropics.

Doug
s/v Callista

remove the * (Norm) wrote in message
...
If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the *
(Norm) wrote:

If I leave the varnish go on the teak cap rail, hand rails and other
trim will it ruin the wood? If several years later I decide to go
back to varnish, is it harder to clean up and get back into shape then
it would have been if I would have maintained the varnish over the
years?

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.


After 15 years and a couple of scraping sessions, I have almost got
rid of the varnish on my teak. I don't know how hard it would be to
revarnish, and I don't intend to find out.

Most of it peeled off in the first year, bu tthere were stubborn spots
that seemed as if they would never peel.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"WooWooism lives" Anon grafitto on the base of the Cuttyhunk breakwater light

Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.

Total BS.

Capt. Bill

All my brightwork was done in Cetol ( 3 coats Lite, 3 coats clear).
Lasted a year in FL and the Bahamas and then back up
to the Chesapeake. If it is done right, it will last a while.

Doug
s/v Callista

"LaBomba182" wrote in message
...
Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: "Bruce on horizon"

Cetol will last about 6 months in florida.

Total BS.

Capt. Bill

Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:20:19 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

Last year, I tried Tropitech, an acrylic deck/spa 'stain' on the wood
I didn't remove on the outside...companionway boards, cockpit coming
and grate.

One year and 3 hurricanes later it's still in fairly good shape.
There are a few places with wear, dings, and needs a bit of care, but
haven't moved up the priority list. It could be late winter before it
is bad enough to touch up....even though I'm told it can refreshed
with a dab on a rag....we'll see.

While sold as a stain for decks, docks, and spas, it looks ok.
Clearly not the luster of mile deep varnish, but non-slip and durable,
and doesn't quite look like paint.

On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 00:03:01 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

All my brightwork was done in Cetol ( 3 coats Lite, 3 coats clear).
Lasted a year in FL and the Bahamas and then back up
to the Chesapeake. If it is done right, it will last a while.

That's what I've found. The sun is plenty strong here at 43 N (same as
Northern California, after all) and if you add up the six month
stretches, I average 18 months of exposure before a triple coat and a
buff between coats starts to go.

By contrast, I dock bow to the south, and my companionway hatch (the
only other exposed teak) lasts facing north for much longer, getting
direct sun early morning and late evening May-August, max.

Cetol's fine for me. If I was fool enough to buy a traditional "woody"
boat, I would reconsider. Same if I was anchored at the Equator for
months on end.

R.

Rich Hampel wrote:

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

lol beer shoots out of nose

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

Abolutely nothing looks as good as the _oiled_ brightwork on my 1966
Hinterhoeller. Varnishing is a total PITA that is as much work as
oiling. Wearing out the rails? Replace 'em.
my $0.02

Here is the details on the primer. They call it an INSULATOR in their
litature..this product is the key to getting longivity out of the product.

http://axonaerospace.com/catalog.php...33c049575fb5f8

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:w5fjd.8954$ep3.5026@lakeread02...
"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
...
Cetol will last about 6 months in florida. I am testing a new product
from
Axon Aerospace which is a polyurthane primer, topped by a polyester
sealer
and finished with an aircraft quality polyurthane clear. After a year
and
two hurricanes, it is untouched.
Good luck with your teak
Bruce

Is that the Nauticoat line? I didn't know they made a clear primer.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Rich,
I saw a boat done in "Honey Teak" and it looked real dark. Is that the
normal color for it? Or maybe was it just the wood?
I have been told that the acrylics are great except around stanchions or
anywhere where the water may get under it and lift. I have all varnished
teak on my floating piece of furniture and I had thought about trying the
cap rail with Bristol or Honey Teak if there wasn't much difference to
notice from the toe rail. I use 2015 Flagship varnish now and if I am lucky
I may get 6 months before a recoat.
I would paint a piece of teak white in a heartbeat before I would ever apply
Cetol but that's just my opinion. I have a neighbor that uses it and just
"slaps" it on over the peeling Cetol stuff and it looks like a bad house
paint job but then again he has oysters growing on the side of the hull!
Phil

"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Varnish is quite 'passe' with the advent of the 'modern'
acrylic/urethanes. Two products that will last typically at least 5
years: "Honey Teak" and "Smith&Co. 5 yr. Clear". If you do at least
one major 'overhaul' you may get more years. I'm into 6 years and still
looks good. These 'almost' look as good as varnish, can be
power-buffed back to brilliance, but typicaly need a quick overcoat of
clear once yearly. They are catalysed 2 part base plus 2 part clear
and can be totally applied in one long day (4-5 coats). The 'secret' to
make tham last is to put on HEAVY base coats. The longer they are
exposed to sun the lighter they get. They are expensive but when you
amortize over 5+ years are really cheap overall .... and much less work
than all the 'others'. Dont use them on Iroko or other teak
'imitations'. For recoating just rub the finish with a 3M purple pad
and apply with a soft artist's brush.
Honey Teak is available from www.signaturefinish.com.
I use Honey teak with extra applied clear coats and then flat sand
(2000 grit) and then hand rub with rottenstone for a mirror finish that
would make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy.

I abhor Cetol and Cetol 'Light; as they both hide the wood grain (and
look like **** and ****-light).

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

Subject: Teak - Varnish, Oil, Or leave it go blond?
From: Rich Hampel

Absolutely NOTHING will look as good as varnish, but it *always* loses
adhesion and eventually lifts.

First is true, second part is not.

Capt. Bill

Any joint that can 'work' butts, scarfs will break integrity and
promote loss of adhesion.... no matter if varnish, acrylics, and the
ever popular orange boat paint.

Honey Teak, etc. will be fairly dark when you first apply, but will
fade over a short time to an amber glow - similar to oil based
varnishes.
If the teak darkens too much, you can bleach with oxalic, etc. to
lighten before large scale applications and with apparently no adhesion
problems later on.

I have acres of Burmese teak and 'everything' that I put on will
darken; therefore, I bleach it first with oxalic. I also before *any*
coating cover with saran and let the sun 'develop' the color and hue
for several days/weeks before bleaching and coating.

Additional comments with Honey Teak, varnish, etc. .... I usually do a
hand-rub finish step to develop the irridescent 'patina' of the wood.
This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down. .... Hand rubbing is usually only found on
mega-yachts with unlimited budgets, Hinckleys at boat shows, museums,
etc. If you only slap on successive coats and dont hand rub, all you
get is coated wood; if however, you also hand rub then you get
perfection that 'glows.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 03:09:44 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

This is essentially a frictional heat process done by a bare hand that
deveops the 'warmth' effect in high quality varnish, etc. Plus, a hand
rub will provide a totally flattened surface onto which further coats
are easily laid down.

===========================

I'm not doubting you but am curious to know more about your technique.
Do you rub with an abrasive polishing compound like pumice or
rottenstone?

I've never seen teak go 'blonde'. All I have seen have gone
to gray.


"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the * (Norm)
said:

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

I bought my boat to sail, not to varnish. I'd vote for letting it go
blond.
(Of course the only exterior teak on my boat is the hatch boards.)

First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin. For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 13:46:27 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:
First flat sand with 1300 or 2000 grit wet and dry to get a FLAT
surface; then, .... Rottenstone and water for gloss, rottenstone and
oil for semi-gloss, pumice and and oil for satin.

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================

For a 'perfection'
surface final coat with an airbrush. The modern acrylic/urethanes can
be power buffed (with super fine diotomaceous earth etc. as the 'grit')
to make this whole hand-rub process very fast.

If you ever have the opportunity to look at the wood trim in top of the
line type of private jets or mega yachts or even automobiles.... all
the finishes are hand rubbed to a super brilliant surface. A benefit
of a flat hand-rubbed surface is longevity. The only finish that is
more brilliant than a hand rub on varnish is a 'french-polish' using
alcohol and shellac .... but that is NOT for any wet locations.

In article , Wayne.B
wrote:

=========================================

When you are hand rubbing, do you use a soft cloth, sponge, or some
other material?

============================================
Use a soft cloth. I just use a clean bare hand.

Are you saying that what is left of my hear is really blonde? Wow!
I feel better. Funny though, my hair was blonde before it went blonde :)

Doug

"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 08:45:14 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
said:

I've never seen teak go 'blonde'. All I have seen have gone
to gray.

When you get a bit older you'll appreciate the euphemism g.

Yes it goes grey.

One of my favorite sayings... "Teak doesn't age gracefully, it ages
immediately".

I just replaced 88 deck bungs in my nice grey teak deck yesterday. I guess
I'm getting good at it, did the whole job in about 3 hours. Have to chisel
off all the little bungs today. Woo hoo.

--


Keith
__
"I can't really remember the names of the clubs that we went to."
-Shaquille O'Neal on whether he had visited the Parthenon during
his visit to Greece.
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
I've never seen teak go 'blonde'. All I have seen have gone
to gray.


"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the * (Norm)
said:

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

I bought my boat to sail, not to varnish. I'd vote for letting it go
blond.
(Of course the only exterior teak on my boat is the hatch boards.)

Keith,
What do you glue them in with?

I love gray! Paul

"Doug Dotson" wrote in message ...
I've never seen teak go 'blonde'. All I have seen have gone
to gray.


"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 06:01:25 GMT, remove the * (Norm)
said:

What is everyone doing with their outside teak trim? Comments would
be great.

I bought my boat to sail, not to varnish. I'd vote for letting it go
blond.
(Of course the only exterior teak on my boat is the hatch boards.)

Has anyone any experience with this teal deck alternative?

http://www.flexiteek.no/

I've seen it installed on the deck of a Hatteras Motoryacht, and after 3
years it looks new. Other than washing with boat soap it is maintenance
free.

I am planning on having it installed in the all too white fiberglass
cockpit area of my boat this winter.

Eisboch

I checked it out when researching alternatives for my deck project.
The cost for the Flexiteak alone was over $11,000. Not too much different
than actual teak. I decided to paint it instead.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
Has anyone any experience with this teal deck alternative?

http://www.flexiteek.no/

I've seen it installed on the deck of a Hatteras Motoryacht, and after 3
years it looks new. Other than washing with boat soap it is maintenance
free.

I am planning on having it installed in the all too white fiberglass
cockpit area of my boat this winter.

Eisboch

Doug Dotson wrote:

I checked it out when researching alternatives for my deck project.
The cost for the Flexiteak alone was over $11,000. Not too much different
than actual teak. I decided to paint it instead.

Doug
s/v Callista






Yeah, I was told the Flexiteek was about 35 percent less than real teak,
but I didn't get a quote on real teak so I don't know for sure.

I love the look and feel of teak, but really don't enjoy the
maintenance. Hopefully the Flexiteek will be a happy compromise.

Eisboch

I love the look and feel of teak as well. But it does have the
disadvantage of being really hot both to walk on and the heat
it absorbs into the cabin. The difference of a painted white
deck is dramatic.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
Doug Dotson wrote:

I checked it out when researching alternatives for my deck project.
The cost for the Flexiteak alone was over $11,000. Not too much different
than actual teak. I decided to paint it instead.

Doug
s/v Callista






Yeah, I was told the Flexiteek was about 35 percent less than real teak,
but I didn't get a quote on real teak so I don't know for sure.

I love the look and feel of teak, but really don't enjoy the maintenance.
Hopefully the Flexiteek will be a happy compromise.

Eisboch