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#51
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
After getting new glasses so I wouldnt have to try to sail using underwater currents instead of wind, I managed to get the bow deck on #1. It isnt pretty and the luan is seriously cracking but I plan to glass over those. I need serious amounts of epoxy filler. I got bow gussets on #1. I put together two rudder boxes. Let's hope you are getting better at boats than newsgroup articles. Do you know how to delete what's been written before? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#53
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David |
#54
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... A "Closet Boatbuilder", whodathunkit? I thought being a sailor with a caving problem was bad. Does the American Psychiatric Assocoation list this as just a disorder or a full blown mental illness? Might explain why I cant stop trying to improve on that folding dinghy I saw on the net. BTW, I didnt realize Andrew Buttchart's role in all this till I read the BYYB site. Thanks Andrew. How do I join the BYYB? Raining off and on so I cannot put the deck on #1 so I am working on parts for #2. Do I dare try painting with oil base paint on a rainy night? Might not dry properly but it is on the inside and I would like to get the deck on this weekend. I know that part of this project is guilt for paying somebody else to do work on my big boat (28' S2 sailboat). Have never paid anybody to work on my boat but the distance I would have to drive to work on her and never having right tools on hand made it seem like the right thing to do (a bad decision). Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Sorry William Watt, I am a computer illiterate physicist. |
#55
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart |
#56
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com...
(Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart Got the centerboards and rudders cut out. Faired the edges (chines? never been certain what were chines)of #1 with surform, looks ok. Applied fibreglas tape to some edges. Considering lessening the length of daggerboard for shoal draft, will wait till I try the standard length. |
#57
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
(Parallax) wrote in message . com...
(Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... (Parallax) wrote in message . com... (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message . com... Sorry for the delay - I'm not watching UseNet very closely these days. We'd be happy to have you on the BYYB - there should be a link on the left hand side of the main web page at http://www.byyb.org And of course you can feel free to participate in our web forums without joining - there are a couple of MiniCup builders there. Andrew Butchart Andrew: Unfortunately, that link tries to take me through Outlook Express and that does not work for me. A simple e-mail address would be better if it is available. David You can contact the secretary at however one of the main benefits of the BYYB is it's online web forums which you should be able to get to by opening your web browser to http://www.byyb.org Andrew Butchart Got the centerboards and rudders cut out. Faired the edges (chines? never been certain what were chines)of #1 with surform, looks ok. Applied fibreglas tape to some edges. Considering lessening the length of daggerboard for shoal draft, will wait till I try the standard length. As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? |
#58
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
Parallax ) writes:
As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? depends on what you are doing for sails. there will be some difference in mast bend which is usually taken into consideration in the cut of the sail. I would use the free material and if not satisfied replace with the other next year. I doubt it would make much difference to the pleasure and enjoyment of the boats the first year or two. The extra thickness of the walls certainly removes any concern about strength. A bit of extra weight aloft should also not matter at this stage. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#59
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Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup
As the plans say, getting the aluminum mast is difficult. I tried the
local Metal Supermarkets, plans say 16' of 2-2.375" .065 wall Al tubing. All they could get was 2" .125 wall thickness. Considered using it but it would flop around in the big mast hole so found a place on internet selling 2.25" .065 wall in 16' length for $109, other two pieces for the lateen rig will be 12' 2" .o65 wall for $95 each for a total of $299 for each boat......WOW. No idea what shipping will cost. Any ideas anyone? Should I use the 2" .125 wall from Metal Supermarkets (essentially free since they owe me money)? Hi, just did a few numbers (everything in decimal inches/ sq. / cu. as appropriate), and assuming the same density of aluminium in each, just to compare the tubes.: 1.56 oz./cu. in. is just an encyclopedia value for the density of aluminium (2700Kg/cu. M). Based on a 16" length. Recomended tubing: Diameter 2.375 Outside Radius 1.1875 Outside Area 4.430136515 Wall Thickness 0.065 Inside Radius 1.1225 Inside Area 3.958426378 C/S Area 0.471710137 Volume of 192" 90.56834629 1.56oz/cu. In. 141.2866202 Pounds 8.830413763 Metals Supermarket tubing: Diameter 2 Outside Radius 1 Outside Area 3.141592654 Wall Thickness 0.125 Inside Radius 0.875 Inside Area 2.405281875 C/S Area 0.736310778 Volume of 192" 141.3716694 1.56oz/cu. In. 220.5398043 Pounds 13.78373777 Someone might check that over - I'm a metric kid, and these ancient mariner inches, rods, bushels etc. confuse me no end. Alternatively, I may have just made a hames of the numbers. Tubing you're suggesting is 55% heavier than the suggested tubing. It'll also be up pretty high -a 5metre length of this forms the upper spar of the lateen rig, and it's held up pretty high at the aft end. Someone more clued in than me could tell you how the difference in radius and wall thickness would affect strength and stiffness (stiffness increasing in proportion to square of radius or somthing?). Generally, the worst place for more weight is up high. However... ....the building notes are pretty slack when it comes to specifying tubing for the masts. You're still within the 2"-2.375" range per the plans. They suggest everything from irrigation piping to car exhaust sections. They also say that if the tubing is too flexible, it can be stiffened with a baton of wood running along the line of stress (fore-and-aft in most of the tubes), so there's probably a fair margin of safety in the measurments. As usual, it's up to you. I'd hate to say it looks Ok, then have the rig come down on your head in the first stiff breeze you go out in. If you you do use the smaller tubing, just shim the mast hole, but make the shims removable - stick em' in with a few blobs of silicone on the back so that they'll stay where they are, but can easily be pried off if required. Seems you've still got a fair bit of finishing, filling and painting to do before you need the masts anyway, so I'd keep looking round for a bit, rather than blast ahead when you could get better stuff. Regards, bookieb. |
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