Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA. Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Steve Lusardi"

Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle.

SFWIW, I have a manual gun that uses "sausages". Does a great job.

Night and day difference between it and the typical DIY, 10.5 oz gun.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Interesting comment about tape on the bottom of the joint. This is
something that is common to all sealing / jointing, but is overlooked by
most people. Consider a joint with two sides and bottom. Something like a
tongue and groove. Sealant can withstand say 30% extension before failure.
If the joint has a non-stick "bottom" like tape or backing rod, then as the
joint expands the sealant cross section lengthens - but it also gets
"narrower" to maintain it's volume. If it's stuck to the bottom of the
joint it can't shrink upwards, so the top surface must contract much more
than the 30 %, and it tears and the joint fails.. Sorry if this is not a
clear word picture. But the essence of it is that every time you fill a
three sided joint right to the bottom ( which is the intuitive way to do it)
you are building in failure!!
People think backing rods in joints are to save sealant and not worth
worrying about. They ( or non-stick tape) are critical to a successful
joint.
One of my pet hobby horse topics!
David

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape
on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When
I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA.
Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Oh yea, Boatlife makes a bondbreaker cord that you should use in the bottom
of each seam.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape
on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When
I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA.
Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I agree about the bond breaker but not about the silicone. The TDS
caulk was recommended to me by Brooklyn Boatyard and PJ. I have a small
sample of the TDS decking and it is pretty amazing. The bond is so
strong that TDS doesn't even use a backing on their prefabbed decking.
It is held together by the caulk only.

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA. Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...

Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com





--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn et all

TDS has been giving sampless of decking in boat shows, but last time I spoke
with them they said their caulking is not a glue to hold teak strips
together, and I believe they still sell all their prefabbed decking with
backing either fiberglass or plywood. Maritime has harder caulking and they
sell prefabbed panels w/o backing. Both caulkings are silicone based, either
one specially formulated for teak decking but actually used in other
industries and have probably over 20 year life in outside conditions.
I have used both and to make life more interesting I will soon come up with
my own "specially formulated for teak decking" product ;-)

Juha Tuomela
Jupiter FL


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:PyjBb.90409$xV6.22139@lakeread04...
I agree about the bond breaker but not about the silicone. The TDS
caulk was recommended to me by Brooklyn Boatyard and PJ. I have a small
sample of the TDS decking and it is pretty amazing. The bond is so
strong that TDS doesn't even use a backing on their prefabbed decking.
It is held together by the caulk only.

For what it is worth:
I'l support: Awoid silicone and use tape.

With all the efford you have put into the project, don't try to save a penny
on this one.

(I'm no expert but I am going to re-chauck my deck this winter, so the
subject definitly has my interest)

Peter

"Steve Lusardi" skrev i en meddelelse
...
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape
on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When
I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA.
Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Peter S/Y Anicula" wrote in message
k...
For what it is worth:
I'l support: Awoid silicone and use tape.

Using tape is a must. But why the aversion against silicone? I mean, it's
not the ordinary silicone houshold stuff we're talking about. This stuff is
specially designed for decks. I remember an article in Woodenboat about this
and they where very enthousiastic about it.

Meindert

I guess I have a general aversion against silicone on boats. This is based
on experience from 20 years ago with some marine silicone products, that I
didn't like.

I realise that I'm probably not up to date on this subject. I'll look
further
in to it. Until then, forget my advise against silicone for deck seams.

Peter S/Y Anicula


"Meindert Sprang" skrev i en meddelelse
...
"Peter S/Y Anicula" wrote in message
k...
For what it is worth:
I'l support: Awoid silicone and use tape.

Using tape is a must. But why the aversion against silicone? I mean, it's
not the ordinary silicone houshold stuff we're talking about. This stuff
is
specially designed for decks. I remember an article in Woodenboat about
this
and they where very enthousiastic about it.

Meindert

"Peter S/Y Anicula" writes:

I guess I have a general aversion against silicone on boats. This is based
on experience from 20 years ago with some marine silicone products, that I
didn't like.

....But then again, nobody has even 10 years of experience of the new
silicones.

Glenn, having seen your boat built from the start (virtually) I would hate
to see you ruin the deck with some non-proved new wonder goo when a known
and long-used 2-part polysulphide would be a safe alternative.

Everything I know of wooden boats tells that silicone should be kept far
from wood. If you start using silicone there is no way back. There has
been enough bad examples of miraculous new products failing after a few
years. Your boat is a pretty big testfield for expensive failures...

Pekka



--
http://www.puuvene.net/