Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA. Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news
C2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.
The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450
I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.
Does anyone have experience with either?
--
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com