Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn, in addition to recommendation by the boatyards in these parts, I got a
recommendation for the TDS product from the US tech support guy from Sika.
Sika stopped importing a product for this application. The TDS product
didn't seem to be as messy as the polysulfide goos. When sanded you get
crumbs.

One option I don't recommend is graphite in epoxy. The dust stains the teak.

Jim

Glenn Ashmore wrote:

Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Jim Conlin wrote:
Glenn, in addition to recommendation by the boatyards in these parts,
I got a recommendation for the TDS product from the US tech support
guy from Sika. Sika stopped importing a product for this application.
The TDS product didn't seem to be as messy as the polysulfide goos.
When sanded you get crumbs.

One option I don't recommend is graphite in epoxy. The dust stains
the teak.


I am leaning towards the TDS product. Epoxy/graphite was eliminated in
the first round. Besides being even nastier than 5200 it is just
counter intuitive. Wood moves. Epoxy doesn't. That seems like a sure
setup for cracks.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA. Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

If you can find some installed examples to check the finish of the
seams, directly, you may find differences significant to you. I can't
speak directly to your question, but I have found a great variety of
appearance in caulks after cure - beyond the obvious coloration.

Rufus


Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

"Steve Lusardi"

Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle.

SFWIW, I have a manual gun that uses "sausages". Does a great job.

Night and day difference between it and the typical DIY, 10.5 oz gun.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Interesting comment about tape on the bottom of the joint. This is
something that is common to all sealing / jointing, but is overlooked by
most people. Consider a joint with two sides and bottom. Something like a
tongue and groove. Sealant can withstand say 30% extension before failure.
If the joint has a non-stick "bottom" like tape or backing rod, then as the
joint expands the sealant cross section lengthens - but it also gets
"narrower" to maintain it's volume. If it's stuck to the bottom of the
joint it can't shrink upwards, so the top surface must contract much more
than the 30 %, and it tears and the joint fails.. Sorry if this is not a
clear word picture. But the essence of it is that every time you fill a
three sided joint right to the bottom ( which is the intuitive way to do it)
you are building in failure!!
People think backing rods in joints are to save sealant and not worth
worrying about. They ( or non-stick tape) are critical to a successful
joint.
One of my pet hobby horse topics!
David

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape
on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When
I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA.
Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I've heard a lot of good stuff about TDS' stuff. I've used 3M's product as
well with good success. Can't remember the number, but it's labeled "teak
deck seam/sealer" or something obvious like that.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Oh yea, Boatlife makes a bondbreaker cord that you should use in the bottom
of each seam.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape
on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When
I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA.
Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...
Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I agree about the bond breaker but not about the silicone. The TDS
caulk was recommended to me by Brooklyn Boatyard and PJ. I have a small
sample of the TDS decking and it is pretty amazing. The bond is so
strong that TDS doesn't even use a backing on their prefabbed decking.
It is held together by the caulk only.

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Glenn,
I would stay away from any silicone product because, once you use it, you
will never be able to use anything else. It maybe very good, but the
financial risk if it fails is very high. A very useful tip is to use tape on
the bottom of every seam. This will prevent the calk from being peeled of
the sides when expansion and contraction occurs. That is the most common
cause of calk failure. You know polysulfide works, why take the risk? When I
did my deck I used 242 tubes and I had to load each one, a real PITA. Today,
most of the polysulfide makers offer their product in sausages that load
into pneumatic guns. This is the only way to go. These guns are expensive,
but the time and product savings is amazing. The thin plastic wrapper
prevents the polysulfide from air exposure until it exits the nozzle. As a
point to note, moisture exposure causes the cure. Don't even think about
doing this in anything but the driest conditions. Good luck!
Steve

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
newsC2Bb.90342$xV6.61520@lakeread04...

Rutu' teak decking will have about 1,100 lineal feet of seams. Based on
the manufacturers' coverage figures that will require 4 gallons or 60
cartriges of caulk.

The candidates with estimated cost for Rutu's decks a
Detco - 2 part polysulfide & primer + cartriges - $580
Boatlife - 2 part Polysulfide & primer + cartriges $540
Maritime Wood Products - one part oxime silicone - $510
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 - one part silicone - $450

I am leaning strongly towards the silicones because there is no mixing
or cartrige filling and you can stop at the end of a cartrige without
wasting the rest of the gallon. Both silicones seem to be highly
recommended with the TDS product getting the most mentions.

Does anyone have experience with either?

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com





--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com