Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#14
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit" wrote: I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up and down and let it drain some more. I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of time to reach the carbs before winter storage. db I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year. I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Prop recommendation for 90HP Mercury 2-stroke on 20ft pontoon | General | |||
Honda 50 4 stroke vs Yamaha 60 4 stroke | General | |||
4 Stroke 90HP Merc Engine - Changing Spark Plugs | Cruising | |||
Winterizing a Honda outboard 4 stroke (90HP) | General | |||
Honda 4 stroke engines | General |