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Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"D-unit" wrote in message ... Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Remove the prop. Clean and grease the splines as necessary. Refinish any bare metal on the outboard with aluminum friendly primers and paint. Check battery connections. All approved oil is OK. More expensive oils might be better than OK. Synthetic gear oil is better than Dyno oil. Make sure you gap the plugs. Change the fuel filter. Do what the manual says. Get excited. Say Woo Hoo several times. ;-) |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 25, 1:04*pm, "D-unit" wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? Probably not required, but I'm sure you can find some!! |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...
I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 25, 12:55*pm, "JimH" wrote:
"D-unit" wrote in message ... Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? http://www.floridasportfishing.com/m...ses/honda-mari... Nice googling. Now how much of that do you believe and why? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I heard of that happening. I think it was a fish thrashing around that broke it. Racor makes some that have a see thru plastic bowl at the bottom of the filter. Might be only for diesel though. At any rate the spin on water separators should do the trick. Carry spares. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
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Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote: I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Water pump impeller? Good idea if it's more than 2 years old or if you've been through sand or mud. |
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