|
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"D-unit" wrote in message ... Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Remove the prop. Clean and grease the splines as necessary. Refinish any bare metal on the outboard with aluminum friendly primers and paint. Check battery connections. All approved oil is OK. More expensive oils might be better than OK. Synthetic gear oil is better than Dyno oil. Make sure you gap the plugs. Change the fuel filter. Do what the manual says. Get excited. Say Woo Hoo several times. ;-) |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 25, 1:04*pm, "D-unit" wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? Probably not required, but I'm sure you can find some!! |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...
I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 25, 12:55*pm, "JimH" wrote:
"D-unit" wrote in message ... Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? http://www.floridasportfishing.com/m...ses/honda-mari... Nice googling. Now how much of that do you believe and why? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I heard of that happening. I think it was a fish thrashing around that broke it. Racor makes some that have a see thru plastic bowl at the bottom of the filter. Might be only for diesel though. At any rate the spin on water separators should do the trick. Carry spares. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
|
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote: I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Water pump impeller? Good idea if it's more than 2 years old or if you've been through sand or mud. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit" wrote: I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up and down and let it drain some more. I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of time to reach the carbs before winter storage. db I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year. I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
|
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:10:27 -0400, wrote: Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! Also non-compliant with USCG regs and ABYC standards. If you have a fire or explosion don't bother to call your insurance company. Ahh, I see my error. I mean the clear plastic, not the glass-bottom filter. But it still can't be covered up in the bilge. It has to be above the bilge. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
|
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:29:33 -0500, "D-unit" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit" wrote: I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up and down and let it drain some more. I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of time to reach the carbs before winter storage. db I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year. I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda. -- John *H* (Not the other one!) |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
|
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
Calif Bill wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. A 90 hp Honda is an inboard? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... Calif Bill wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. A 90 hp Honda is an inboard? Its a Skiff. i.e. -tub. db Well, considering how expensive new outboards are, I think it is smart to spend a few bucks on an "extra" external fuel filter, one that will keep water and crud from even getting to the filter inside the engine. I think the external filter on mine has a 10-micron screen, but don't quote me on that. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"HK" wrote in message ... Calif Bill wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. A 90 hp Honda is an inboard? Its a Skiff. i.e. -tub. db |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 26, 9:35*am, HK wrote:
D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in ... Calif Bill wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message .. . D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. *Does not matter. *I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. A 90 hp Honda is an inboard? Its a Skiff. *i.e. *-tub. db Well, considering how expensive new outboards are, I think it is smart to spend a few bucks on an "extra" external fuel filter, one that will keep water and crud from even getting to the filter inside the engine. I think the external filter on mine has a 10-micron screen, but don't quote me on that.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. My last two outboards came pre-rigged with external fuel filters bearing the engine manufacturer's brand name. Page 46 of the latest Yamaha outboard catalog says, in part: "Our 10-micron high performance fuel/water separating filter is specifically designed for use with the on-engine filters in all Yamaha EFI, HPDI and carbureted outboards." The filters allow a flow rate of 90 gph at 10 microns, the catalog says. That's much much higher than either my two two outboards dared to burn at WOT. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 26, 1:29*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote in message ... On Mar 26, 1:29 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. But is the affect detrimental? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
D.Duck wrote:
wrote in message ... On Mar 26, 1:29 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. But is the affect detrimental? If the external filter handles flows six times greater than my outboard burns at WOT, what is the net effect of any restriction? And since my engine manufacturer recommends using an external filter, why would its use be detrimental in any way? The external filter keeps water and crap out of the fuel going into the engine. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 26, 1:28*pm, "D.Duck" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Mar 26, 1:29 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. But is the affect detrimental? That would be on a case by case basis. Hence my point! |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 26, 1:51*pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote: wrote in message ... On Mar 26, 1:29 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. But is the affect detrimental? If the external filter handles flows six times greater than my outboard burns at WOT, what is the net effect of any restriction? And since my engine manufacturer recommends using an external filter, why would its use be detrimental in any way? Your manufacturer recommends a SPECIFIC external filter. It still has a negative effect because it's in ADDITION to an already existing filter. The external filter keeps water and crap out of the fuel going into the engine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Isn't that what the internal filter is for? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 09:46:26 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Mar 26, 1:29 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:17:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: What about the fact that you may well be voiding your warranty? What about the fact that today's fuel systems work on precise pressures and an extra filter may very well change that? What about the fact that the computer my very well sense a problem with the fuel delivery and not work correctly? There are two fuel pumps between the line and the injectors. I doubt an external filter will have any effect at all. It HAS to have an effect, it's a restriction. The question is really whether it affects performance and it shouldn't unless the filter is plugged. That is a lot more likely in the tiny little filter on the engine than a big spin on. Considering they use the same basic fuel pump on the primary side as they used in ther 2 stroke which used a lot more fuel, it should deliver plenty to the second stage metering pump. I looked in my Merc shop manual and it is silent about external filters. It does warn about anti-siphon valves causing lean conditions and electric pumps causing overpressure problems. I have had a Racor spin on installed since the late 80s on my boat and from my exoerience they rust and leak long before they plug up. I stopped buying the sight bowl model because it is more expenbsive and I have never had a water in the fuel problem. I use my boat a lot so condensation is not really an issue. The regular spin on still separates water and I suppose I could spin it off and dump the water out if I did get some. So far I haven't. I know a few guys with the RACOR filters on their outboards, including some who use Yamahas. I don't know this for a fact, but I have read that RACOR produces private label filters for Yamaha. Yamaha has a stainless steel mounting head unit available now that the filters spin into, as it were. Uses the same filters. You can also get a unit with a water-sensing probe that signals a multi-use instrument on your boat's "dash." I'd bet other motor manufacturers have these options available, too. My feeling is that use of a proper external filter with a modern outboard is not an issue except to those looking to make it one. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
"HK" wrote in message ... Calif Bill wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote: wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote: D-unit wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... D-unit wrote: Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but... I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30... Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x required??? It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the old oil to assure a quick and through drain. I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil. Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already. Inspect Anode. Check prop nut. I can't think of anything else other than a few items that require grease (from the manual) db~trying not to get too excited. Is there an oil filter to change? Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year. How about a fuel filter inside the engine, and on the boat? At least one inside the engine. You might want to pull the prop to make sure 200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft. Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine, you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose attached. Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine while connected to the flush hose. db If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them. Check for places to apply grease under the hood. Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered out. Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant! I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline filter in the bilges. They don't allow what you suggested. Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass. Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an inboard with a closed bilge. A 90 hp Honda is an inboard? Actually I do not think inboard enters in to the rules. A closed bilge is the thing. |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
On Mar 26, 9:33*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:01:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote: The external filter keeps water and crap out of the fuel going into the engine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Isn't that what the internal filter is for? No it is simply the final filter that determines what can get to the injectors. It is not big enough to do all the filtering you might need and has virtually no water separation ability. So the internal filter isn't a filter? |
Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
wrote in message ... On Mar 26, 9:33 pm, wrote: On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:01:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote: The external filter keeps water and crap out of the fuel going into the engine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Isn't that what the internal filter is for? No it is simply the final filter that determines what can get to the injectors. It is not big enough to do all the filtering you might need and has virtually no water separation ability. So the internal filter isn't a filter? Have you ever heard of "belt and suspenders"? If one's good, more's better. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:21 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com