Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

wrote in message ...
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote:

I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the
system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well
from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I
would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up
and down and let it drain some more.

I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with
your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to
change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually
pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out
for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of
time to reach the carbs before winter storage.

db




I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the
changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year.

I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same
price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda.

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:10:27 -0400, wrote:

Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!

Also non-compliant with USCG regs and ABYC standards. If you have a
fire or explosion don't bother to call your insurance company.



Ahh, I see my error. I mean the clear plastic, not the glass-bottom
filter. But it still can't be covered up in the bilge. It has to be
above the bilge.

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:29:33 -0500, "D-unit" wrote:


wrote in message ...
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote:

I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the
system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well
from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I
would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up
and down and let it drain some more.

I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with
your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to
change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually
pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out
for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of
time to reach the carbs before winter storage.

db




I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the
changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year.

I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same
price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda.


--
John *H*
(Not the other one!)

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I
don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like
mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the
engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.
Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install
a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being
filtered out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!



I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline
filter in the bilges.

They don't allow what you suggested.




Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass.


Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an
inboard with a closed bilge.

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

 

wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:11:22 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

Water pump impeller?  Good idea if it's more than 2 years old or if
you've been through sand or mud.

It is actually a good idea to drop the foot once a year or so, just to
be sure you can. Use antisieze (I like Neversieze silver) on the bolts
when you go back.
Same with the prop but pack the splines and hub with a good marine
grease. Try to have it completely full so water can't get in to
corrode stuff.    I use a graphite compound for the propeller splines.  Much surer way
   of getting the prop off in the future.

        &n bsp;       &nbs p;                 &n bsp;       Sherwin D.

 
 

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

Calif Bill wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I
don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like
mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the
engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.
Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install
a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being
filtered out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!


I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline
filter in the bilges.
They don't allow what you suggested.



Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass.


Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an
inboard with a closed bilge.


A 90 hp Honda is an inboard?

Spring servicing Honda 90HP 4 stroke
 

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ...
Calif Bill wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I
don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like
mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the
engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.
Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install
a glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being
filtered out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!


I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline
filter in the bilges.
They don't allow what you suggested.


Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass.

Glass, Plastic. Does not matter. I think neither are allowed for an
inboard with a closed bilge.


A 90 hp Honda is an inboard?

Its a Skiff. i.e. -tub.

db




Well, considering how expensive new outboards are, I think it is smart
to spend a few bucks on an "extra" external fuel filter, one that will
keep water and crud from even getting to the filter inside the engine.

I think the external filter on mine has a 10-micron screen, but don't
quote me on that.