Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.

D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.





Is there an oil filter to change? How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat? You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached. If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.

Check for places to apply grease under the hood.

"HK" wrote in message ...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.





Is there an oil filter to change?

Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?

At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.

Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.



Check for places to apply grease under the hood.

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.




Is there an oil filter to change?

Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?

At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.

Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.




Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.




Is there an oil filter to change?

Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?

At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like
mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.

Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.




Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.

Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!


I heard of that happening. I think it was a fish thrashing around that broke
it.
Racor makes some that have a see thru plastic bowl at the bottom of the
filter. Might be only for diesel though. At any rate the spin on water
separators should do the trick. Carry spares.

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:10:27 -0400, wrote:

Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.

Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!

Also non-compliant with USCG regs and ABYC standards. If you have a
fire or explosion don't bother to call your insurance company.

Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:10:27 -0400, wrote:

Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!

Also non-compliant with USCG regs and ABYC standards. If you have a
fire or explosion don't bother to call your insurance company.



Ahh, I see my error. I mean the clear plastic, not the glass-bottom
filter. But it still can't be covered up in the bilge. It has to be
above the bilge.

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.


Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.

Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!




I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline
filter in the bilges.

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:41:15 -0400, HK wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.
Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.
Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!



I believe USCG regs do not allow putting that sort of "bowl" gasoline
filter in the bilges.

They don't allow what you suggested.




Minor error...I was thinking plastic bowl but typed glass.

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:37:10 -0400, HK wrote:

D-unit wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ...
D-unit wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Is there an oil filter to change?
Yup, the previous owner threw one in with the sale last year.

How about a fuel filter inside the
engine, and on the boat?
At least one inside the engine.

You might want to pull the prop to make sure
200' of fishing line isn't wrapped around the shaft.

Before you warm up that engine on dry land, check the manual. I don't
know anything about Hondas, but if the flush hose on yours is like mine,
you do not want to be running the engine with just the flush hose
attached.
Good call, just checked the manual and it does say DO NOT run the engine
while connected to the flush hose.


db


If you are using lower unit muffs, keep an eye on them.


Check for places to apply grease under the hood.


Consider installing a proper fuel filter on the transom if you can. If
the filter is out in the open, outside of the bilges, you can install a
glass bottomed unit that will let you see if any water is being filtered
out.

Yeah, and since it's out in the open, you'll have no trouble breaking
the glass and disabling your fuel supply to the motor. Brilliant!



If you don't use the boat, what is the probability of you breaking the
glass?