"D-unit" wrote in message
...
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...


I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

I assume I can get away with the usual lower unit gearcase oil.

Have new NGK's ordered up on Ebay already.

Inspect Anode.
Check prop nut.

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.



Remove the prop. Clean and grease the splines as necessary. Refinish any
bare metal on the outboard with aluminum friendly primers and paint. Check
battery connections. All approved oil is OK. More expensive oils might be
better than OK. Synthetic gear oil is better than Dyno oil. Make sure you
gap the plugs. Change the fuel filter. Do what the manual says. Get excited.
Say Woo Hoo several times. ;-)

On Mar 25, 1:04*pm, "D-unit" wrote:
Yea yea yea..I probably should have performed this last fall but...

I want to change the engine oil. *The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... *Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

Probably not required, but I'm sure you can find some!!

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote:

I can't think of anything else other than a few items that
require grease (from the manual)

db~trying not to get too excited.

Water pump impeller? Good idea if it's more than 2 years old or if
you've been through sand or mud.

 

wrote: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:11:22 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

Water pump impeller?  Good idea if it's more than 2 years old or if
you've been through sand or mud.

It is actually a good idea to drop the foot once a year or so, just to
be sure you can. Use antisieze (I like Neversieze silver) on the bolts
when you go back.
Same with the prop but pack the splines and hub with a good marine
grease. Try to have it completely full so water can't get in to
corrode stuff.    I use a graphite compound for the propeller splines.  Much surer way
   of getting the prop off in the future.

        &n bsp;       &nbs p;                 &n bsp;       Sherwin D.

 
 

wrote in message ...
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote:

I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the
system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well
from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I
would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up
and down and let it drain some more.

I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with
your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to
change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually
pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out
for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of
time to reach the carbs before winter storage.

db




I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the
changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year.

I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same
price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda.

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:29:33 -0500, "D-unit" wrote:


wrote in message ...
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:04:34 -0500, "D-unit"
wrote:

I want to change the engine oil. The manual calls for SAE 10w30...
Ummm...This seems to easy and straight forward... Isn't there
an "outboard" 4-stroke oil with special detergents that costs 3 x
required???

It also recommends warming up the engine prior to draining the
old oil to assure a quick and through drain.

The choice is to send that dirty, full of condensation oil through the
system before you drain it or just assume it has drained fairly well
from the last time it was hot and just sitting in the sump. I think I
would just drain what you have, let it drip a while THEN tilt it up
and down and let it drain some more.

I guess a case could be made either way, but I think I agree with
your assesment more. I suppose the thing to do would be to
change the oil immediately after its last use in the fall. I usually
pour in the STABIL on my last fishing stop on my last trip out
for the season. That way, it gets mixed up good and has plenty of
time to reach the carbs before winter storage.

db




I just use a good quality auto oil in mine but I am good about the
changes (100 hrs) and that is at least 3 times a year.

I used the OEM foot oil (Mercury) because it was just about the same
price as the generic at Ace Hardware. I am not sure about Honda.


--
John *H*
(Not the other one!)