Best cleaner for river slime
 

Dave Hall wrote:
On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 23:37:05 -0600, sherwindu
wrote:

Thanks for all the replies.

As far as wax, I give the hull a good coating of high quality boat wax before the
spring launch, and it doesn't seem to help protect the boat. This fresh water river

must have some nasty chemicals in it. I certainly wouldn't go in this water to try
and
clean the boat during the season. I have tried various products containing bleach,
oxalic acid, etc. and haven't found an effective cleaner yet. I am still wondering
if
using these acid products full strength might do damage to the fiberglass, so maybe
they should be diluted (how much?). If they use muriatic acid to etch concrete,
that
sounds scary. I will check out the 'on and off' product. I eventually got most of
the
stain off using a heavy duty liquid cleaner, but it took a lot of rubbing. I have
used
most of the commercial products mentioned in this thread, with not much luck.

Sherwin

I use an acid based cleaner from WalMart called, surprisingly enough,
Hull Cleaner that they sell in the boating/fishing section. I am sure
that it is just some basic acid that you can get cheaper in some other
form, but a quart container lasts me through at least 10 cleanings. I
boat in the Ohio River and if left in even over night there is a brown
to black stain that will not come off with any soap I have tried. With
this stuff I first wash with soap, then just sponge this stuff on
sparingly with a long handled cleaner with a cloth head. I spray some
around the outdrive and other hard to get too areas. Wait 10 seconds
or so and spray it off and the boat is white again. It doesn't matter
whether the boat was left in overnight or for 3 weeks, the stain comes
off just as quickly. I would bet that this stuff eats off the wax the
first time I use it and I only wax once a season. I have used it for
several years and see absolutely no impact on the fiberglass. I do NOT
have bottom paint on the boat, though.

Dave Hall

That is exactly how Off and On works. Off and On sells for about
$15/quart.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

"John H." wrote in message
...

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:31:17 -0400, HK wrote:


sherwindu wrote:

My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a whole
season.

Sherwin

Sherwin,
That was my opinion for 25 years, and is the reason I always used
Carnauba Wax also and didn't even bother to try the new finishes
available at the auto store. I tried Zaino after someone recommended
it
in rec.boats and I did a Google Search and found it was considered
the
best finish and protectant by all of the car clubs and auto
enthusiast.
The first year I tried Zaino Bros, (I think it was 4 yrs ago). I did
an A/B experiment with my wife's car and my car. I did a complete
detail on both cars, including using detail clay and the complete
Meguiar's Car Care 3 step Carnauba Wax Program and the Zaino Bros. 3
step Polish. After I finished both cars were as slick as glass.
While
the Zaino Bros looked better initially, what I was really interested
is
how well it would last after 6 months, since I would always wax my
car
in the spring and fall. In the fall, the Zaino still had large beads
of
water on the car, and when I clayed the car, their was no pollution
residual common off on the clay. The Mequiars car was still water
beading, but the beads were smaller, and it the finish definitely had
rough feel. When I clayed the car, I could see where the air
pollution
had pitted the finish, and I was getting the pollution residual on
the
clay. I also noticed that the Zaino car actually looked better the
2nd
time i applied the finish.



"The beads were smaller..."


There is a school of thought that suggests that "beading" of water on a
painted surface will cause paint damage unless you wash and wax very
regularly. The beads of water act like miniature magnifying glasses,
focusing and intensifying the sun's energy, burning through the wax and
paint and permanently burning any dust or dirt into the surface. The wax is
sacrificial and does not last very long.

Eisboch

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:



"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.



Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water beading,
it has some thing to do with surface tension of the water, and how the
car finish holds onto the water molecules determining the size of the
water droplets. The less surface tension on the car finish, the less it
will holds onto the water molecules and thus, the larger the water
droplets will be before their molecules pull apart. If the car finish
is pitted the surface tension of the car finish will be so strong it
will not allow the water to bead at all or the beads will be smaller.

Now I am going to ask you to either contribute to the discussion or butt
out of the discussion. It makes you look silly to comment on subjects
that are not familiar with. I don't want to have to ask you again.


My contribution: if you are going to rewrite something you find on
wikipedia, Reggie, try to do a better job of it, and if you make it back
here in another life, pay attention when your high school physics
teacher discusses hydrophobic interaction.

Have a nice day. Or not.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:



"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.



Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water
beading, it has some thing to do with surface tension of the water,
and how the car finish holds onto the water molecules determining the
size of the water droplets. The less surface tension on the car
finish, the less it will holds onto the water molecules and thus, the
larger the water droplets will be before their molecules pull apart.
If the car finish is pitted the surface tension of the car finish will
be so strong it will not allow the water to bead at all or the beads
will be smaller.

Now I am going to ask you to either contribute to the discussion or
butt out of the discussion. It makes you look silly to comment on
subjects that are not familiar with. I don't want to have to ask you
again.


My contribution: if you are going to rewrite something you find on
wikipedia, Reggie, try to do a better job of it, and if you make it back
here in another life, pay attention when your high school physics
teacher discusses hydrophobic interaction.

Have a nice day. Or not.

Harry,
I asked you not to respond if you can not contribute something to the
discussion. Now stop it.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
HK wrote:



"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.



Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water beading, it
has some thing to do with surface tension of the water, and how the car
finish holds onto the water molecules determining the size of the water
droplets. The less surface tension on the car finish, the less it will
holds onto the water molecules and thus, the larger the water droplets
will be before their molecules pull apart. If the car finish is pitted
the surface tension of the car finish will be so strong it will not allow
the water to bead at all or the beads will be smaller.



Those that are familiar with cleaning optics or glass know that an
indication that the surface is truly clean is that the water sheets, rather
than beads.

Eisboch

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:



"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.



Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water
beading, it has some thing to do with surface tension of the water,
and how the car finish holds onto the water molecules determining the
size of the water droplets. The less surface tension on the car
finish, the less it will holds onto the water molecules and thus, the
larger the water droplets will be before their molecules pull apart.
If the car finish is pitted the surface tension of the car finish
will be so strong it will not allow the water to bead at all or the
beads will be smaller.

Now I am going to ask you to either contribute to the discussion or
butt out of the discussion. It makes you look silly to comment on
subjects that are not familiar with. I don't want to have to ask you
again.


My contribution: if you are going to rewrite something you find on
wikipedia, Reggie, try to do a better job of it, and if you make it
back here in another life, pay attention when your high school physics
teacher discusses hydrophobic interaction.

Have a nice day. Or not.

Harry,
I asked you not to respond if you can not contribute something to the
discussion. Now stop it.



Hydrophobic interaction.

Got it?

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Eisboch wrote:
"John H." wrote in message
...

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:31:17 -0400, HK wrote:

sherwindu wrote:

My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a whole
season.

Sherwin

Sherwin,
That was my opinion for 25 years, and is the reason I always used
Carnauba Wax also and didn't even bother to try the new finishes
available at the auto store. I tried Zaino after someone recommended
it
in rec.boats and I did a Google Search and found it was considered
the
best finish and protectant by all of the car clubs and auto
enthusiast.
The first year I tried Zaino Bros, (I think it was 4 yrs ago). I did
an A/B experiment with my wife's car and my car. I did a complete
detail on both cars, including using detail clay and the complete
Meguiar's Car Care 3 step Carnauba Wax Program and the Zaino Bros. 3
step Polish. After I finished both cars were as slick as glass.
While
the Zaino Bros looked better initially, what I was really interested
is
how well it would last after 6 months, since I would always wax my
car
in the spring and fall. In the fall, the Zaino still had large beads
of
water on the car, and when I clayed the car, their was no pollution
residual common off on the clay. The Mequiars car was still water
beading, but the beads were smaller, and it the finish definitely had
rough feel. When I clayed the car, I could see where the air
pollution
had pitted the finish, and I was getting the pollution residual on
the
clay. I also noticed that the Zaino car actually looked better the
2nd
time i applied the finish.


"The beads were smaller..."


There is a school of thought that suggests that "beading" of water on a
painted surface will cause paint damage unless you wash and wax very
regularly. The beads of water act like miniature magnifying glasses,
focusing and intensifying the sun's energy, burning through the wax and
paint and permanently burning any dust or dirt into the surface. The wax is
sacrificial and does not last very long.

Eisboch



Eisbock,

I had heard that also, but considering all (or at least all of the major
mfg'ers that I know of) waxes and polishes result in water beading, and
the car stops beading when the sacrificial wax is pitted, how does one
protect their car's finish without getting water beading?

The water beading question reminds me of the physic problem concerning
do you get wetter running in the rain or walking in the rain.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Eisboch wrote:
"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
HK wrote:


"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.


Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water beading, it
has some thing to do with surface tension of the water, and how the car
finish holds onto the water molecules determining the size of the water
droplets. The less surface tension on the car finish, the less it will
holds onto the water molecules and thus, the larger the water droplets
will be before their molecules pull apart. If the car finish is pitted
the surface tension of the car finish will be so strong it will not allow
the water to bead at all or the beads will be smaller.



Those that are familiar with cleaning optics or glass know that an
indication that the surface is truly clean is that the water sheets, rather
than beads.

Eisboch




I don't believe I've spent two seconds of my life worrying about the
size of the water beads on my cars.

Sometimes the beads are larger than they are at other times.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
Eisboch wrote:
"John H." wrote in message
...

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 08:31:17 -0400, HK wrote:

sherwindu wrote:

My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a
whole season.

Sherwin

Sherwin,
That was my opinion for 25 years, and is the reason I always used
Carnauba Wax also and didn't even bother to try the new finishes
available at the auto store. I tried Zaino after someone
recommended it
in rec.boats and I did a Google Search and found it was
considered the
best finish and protectant by all of the car clubs and auto
enthusiast.
The first year I tried Zaino Bros, (I think it was 4 yrs ago).
I did
an A/B experiment with my wife's car and my car. I did a complete
detail on both cars, including using detail clay and the complete
Meguiar's Car Care 3 step Carnauba Wax Program and the Zaino
Bros. 3
step Polish. After I finished both cars were as slick as glass.
While
the Zaino Bros looked better initially, what I was really
interested is
how well it would last after 6 months, since I would always wax
my car
in the spring and fall. In the fall, the Zaino still had large
beads of
water on the car, and when I clayed the car, their was no pollution
residual common off on the clay. The Mequiars car was still water
beading, but the beads were smaller, and it the finish
definitely had
rough feel. When I clayed the car, I could see where the air
pollution
had pitted the finish, and I was getting the pollution residual
on the
clay. I also noticed that the Zaino car actually looked better
the 2nd
time i applied the finish.


"The beads were smaller..."


There is a school of thought that suggests that "beading" of water on
a painted surface will cause paint damage unless you wash and wax very
regularly. The beads of water act like miniature magnifying glasses,
focusing and intensifying the sun's energy, burning through the wax
and paint and permanently burning any dust or dirt into the surface.
The wax is sacrificial and does not last very long.

Eisboch


Eisbock,

I had heard that also, but considering all (or at least all of the major
mfg'ers that I know of) waxes and polishes result in water beading, and
the car stops beading when the sacrificial wax is pitted, how does one
protect their car's finish without getting water beading?

The water beading question reminds me of the physic problem concerning
do you get wetter running in the rain or walking in the rain.



Waterbeading seems to be a real issue for you.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

HK wrote:
Eisboch wrote:
"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in
message . ..
HK wrote:


"The beads were smaller..."

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.


Harry,
I am don't know the actual physics behind the process of water
beading, it has some thing to do with surface tension of the water,
and how the car finish holds onto the water molecules determining the
size of the water droplets. The less surface tension on the car
finish, the less it will holds onto the water molecules and thus, the
larger the water droplets will be before their molecules pull apart.
If the car finish is pitted the surface tension of the car finish
will be so strong it will not allow the water to bead at all or the
beads will be smaller.



Those that are familiar with cleaning optics or glass know that an
indication that the surface is truly clean is that the water sheets,
rather than beads.

Eisboch



I don't believe I've spent two seconds of my life worrying about the
size of the water beads on my cars.

Sometimes the beads are larger than they are at other times.

Harry,
Didn't I ask you to stop responding to my posts?