Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:46:54 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

They say it is the most sophisticated system of synthetic polymeric
system available today. Great marketing, but doesn't really say
anything, I think most of today's polishes are synthetic polymers.

I sent them a request for the MSDS to see what it really is.

There is a reason why I asked if it contains silicone, and many
"miracle" finishing products do. It is almost impossible to repaint a
surface that has been coated with silicone which is a problem for
those with awlgrip on their boats and might need a touch up at some
point.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:43:16 -0400, " JimH" ask wrote:

Sno Bowl is the same stuff only cheaper.

I'm going to try that stuff on that Chris Craft hull I have that is
stained.

Cheap enough to experiment with.

15% hydrochloric acid by weight.
http://www.ahprokleen.com/products/msds/MSDS110.pdf


Yes, take a close look at the label for "On and Off".

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:38:57 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 15:28:56 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:18:05 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
BAR wrote:
sherwindu wrote:
My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a whole
season.
Is that Carnuba? If it is then that put that in some cheap chocolates
too.
Does it also protect your digestive tract?

Do you remember that long thread we had a number of years ago, about
what was the best wax for your car. As with so many NG threads it
went on for months. I wish I could remember who made the post about
Zaino and "sold" me on trying it. I owe them a beer and dinner.



I'm not sure, but I think I was the first one or maybe the second who
mentioned the virtues of Zaino.
Well if you are I owe you a beer and dinner.
I'd pay to be there for that.

If you'll buy my dinner, I'll come too!

I have a great idea, why don't we go for a dinner cruise around the
Baltimore Harbor. If Harry will bring his big boat, I will have it
catered.

I'll buy the gas! (Or is it diesel?)

Best cleaner for river slime
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:46:54 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

They say it is the most sophisticated system of synthetic polymeric
system available today. Great marketing, but doesn't really say
anything, I think most of today's polishes are synthetic polymers.

I sent them a request for the MSDS to see what it really is.

There is a reason why I asked if it contains silicone, and many
"miracle" finishing products do. It is almost impossible to repaint a
surface that has been coated with silicone which is a problem for
those with awlgrip on their boats and might need a touch up at some
point.

I had both of my car's paint touched up due to minor fender benders. I
don't think it was any problem with the paint, but before I put any of
it on your boat, i would definitely insist on reading the MSDS. I sent
Sol email, but haven't heard anything. I think he may want to keep his
secret blend a secret. I told him my marina needed to see the MSDS
before I could use it in the boat yard.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:43:16 -0400, " JimH" ask wrote:

Sno Bowl is the same stuff only cheaper.
I'm going to try that stuff on that Chris Craft hull I have that is
stained.

Cheap enough to experiment with.
15% hydrochloric acid by weight.
http://www.ahprokleen.com/products/msds/MSDS110.pdf


Yes, take a close look at the label for "On and Off".

JimH prefers using abrasive powders.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

John H. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:11:58 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:15:30 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

Eisboch wrote:
"Don White" wrote in message
...
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for
a "scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch
That sounds like me.
Would that mineral oil affect the UV coatings?


No. Wipe it on gently and then off gently.

If you paid for a "scratch resistant" coating, you were probably also given
a small bottle of "refresher" or something called similarly. Guess what's
in the little bottle?

Eisboch


(As I raise my hand) ME ME ME , Eisboch call on me.
Is that the same stuff my mother made me drink when I was a kid?
He didn't call you on yet. ;)

****.

JohnH,
I hate to interupt this discussion of laxatives, but did you ever take
that photo class Nikon was offering? I took the D200 class Nikonian
Academy http://www.greaterphoto.com/ gave and it was a great course.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:31:47 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:


"HK" wrote in message
...
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:41:03 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:

There is a school of thought that suggests that "beading" of water on a
painted surface will cause paint damage unless you wash and wax very
regularly. The beads of water act like miniature magnifying glasses,
focusing and intensifying the sun's energy, burning through the wax and
paint and permanently burning any dust or dirt into the surface. The
wax is sacrificial and does not last very long.

File this under learn something new everyday.

I just read Wayne's post about sheeting water on his racer and your
post on optics.

Here's my question - what makes the water bead? Is it that it clings
to the surface, or because it can't cling to the surface?

Hydrophobic interaction.

Yup. There is quite a science associated with this. We built high vacuum
processing systems that ionized gas (plasma) and bombarded the internal
walls of bottles -- plastic and glass -- with energetic ions. The process
super cleaned the surface and water would sheet, rather than bead.

Some well know beer companies use this technology.

Cool.

Thanks.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

wrote:

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:45:18 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.
WD40? Never thought of that.


WD40 is mostly dry cleaning solvent. If memory serves less than 20% of
it is mineral oil. But go ahead, wipe your glasses with it.

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

Best Wax for boats and cars.
 

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:11:58 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:15:30 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

Eisboch wrote:
"Don White" wrote in message
...
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
I always got a kick out of people who wear glasses and pay big bucks for
a "scratch resistant" coating on plastic lenses. The coating is actually
called a hydrophobic coating and does absolutely nothing to make the lens
surface "harder". All it does is adds a bit of lubricity to the surface
so dirt or dust will tend to slide off rather than scratch the plastic
surface.

Wiping them with mineral oil will do the same thing.

Eisboch
That sounds like me.
Would that mineral oil affect the UV coatings?


No. Wipe it on gently and then off gently.

If you paid for a "scratch resistant" coating, you were probably also given
a small bottle of "refresher" or something called similarly. Guess what's
in the little bottle?

Eisboch


(As I raise my hand) ME ME ME , Eisboch call on me.

Is that the same stuff my mother made me drink when I was a kid?

He didn't call you on yet. ;)

****.