Davej wrote:

Where would I go for seals for a Henri Lloyd?

I've only seen those in sailing shops... the clothing line, not the
seals. That would be a place to look if you can't find a cheaper
alternative elsewhere. Given the premium for Henri Lloyd locally, I
think you would better off looking elsewhere. If you can't find a
suitable generic seal at a paddling shop, you could consider a scuba shop.

Mike

Davej wrote:
On Jan 19, 5:01 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per :

Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.
Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.


Well, I decided to try using rubber electrical tape since it is
thinner than the bicycle inner tube, but it didn't work well. The
surface of the tape seems to be too slippery. Maybe I need to rough it
up with sandpaper -- or maybe it isn't a compatible material?

Don't waste your time. You can repair it by gluing other types of rubber
to it, but tape isn't going to work.

Basically it seems that repairs are only possible where the seal
doesn't stretch much. Where would I go for seals for a Henri Lloyd?
Are sleeve diameters standardized? Thanks.

Check with OS Systems (www.ossystems.com). They're the best source I've
found for seals and they make a broad range of sizes, which helps to
reduce the amount of trimming necessary to get the right fit. Several
dry suit manufacturers use their seals, I've never heard of Henri Lloyd.

wrote:
On Jan 19, "Davej" wrote:
Where can I get latex to make temporary repairs? I would like to put
off the full replacement until later. Thanks!

Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?

Per Davej:
Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?

I've been using 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff available at
drugstores/supermarkets) without any glue/adhesion problems.
--
PeteCresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Davej wrote:

Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?

I've been using 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff available at
drugstores/supermarkets) without any glue/adhesion problems.

Denatured not isopropyl? Thanks.

Davej wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Davej wrote:

Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?
I've been using 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff available at
drugstores/supermarkets) without any glue/adhesion problems.

Denatured not isopropyl? Thanks.

Drug store alcohol is isopropyl, not denatured. Denatured alcohol
(ethanol with enough methanol added to make it undrinkable) is found at
hardware and paint stores, and is commonly used as a thinner for shellac
and as a mild, general-purpose degreaser. Either one will work, but MEK
works better, though it's more toxic.

Per Davej:
Denatured not isopropyl? Thanks.

Oops!.... Mea culpa.

The label says isopropyl.

I thought they were one and the same.
--
PeteCresswell