Will start and run as ling as I hold the start button. When let up on start
button the thing dies. What is gong on and how do I correct?

wrote in message
om
Will start and run as ling as I hold the start button. When let up
on start button the thing dies. What is gong on and how do I correct?

Many Onan's are also used on land in RV's. That's a rather common problem,
and on the onan website, there is a troubleshooting guide. The website also
lists a bunch of onan service centers. If you happen to need parts, try one
of the many RV places (almost all sell onan parts), or use their service
locator for a dealer near you for anything not handled by the RV stores.
Since you probably have a car/home (you have a roadrunner address, I assume
you have cable in a home somewhere), you may be able to get parts (if
needed) locally.

Some of the most common problems, is bad/corroded/loose connections. If you
have a remote start, the first thing I usually do is unhook it, then second,
check the oil level (the oil level sensor/check is disabled when tying to
start), then check any screw terminals that hold wires to switches etc.
After that, usually check the troubleshooting and have an electrical meter
handy (there is a very simple test, only takes a few seconds, but a meter is
required).

If you know how to use google (www.google.com) search on the groups
rec.outdoors.rv-travel, there is lots of debugging stuff on their (like I
said, it's a common problem)


Good luck!

On Sun, 09 May 2004 08:21:13 GMT, something compelled
, to say:

Will start and run as ling as I hold the start button. When let up on start
button the thing dies. What is gong on and how do I correct?


There is probably a separate circuit to the coil (I'm assuming
this in not a diesel) that is energized with the start button.
It sounds like this one is fine, and allows the motor to run as
long as the button is pressed. The regular ignition circuit is
open, so when you let up on the button, the motor dies for lack
of spark.

I'd get busy with the circuit tester.

If it an older model, check for a ballast resistor in the circuit. Older GM
vehicles used these and when they went would cause an identical problem.
They were designed that way to reduce points burning out to quickly.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Steve Daniels, Seek of Spam" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 09 May 2004 08:21:13 GMT, something compelled
, to say:

Will start and run as ling as I hold the start button. When let up on
start
button the thing dies. What is gong on and how do I correct?


There is probably a separate circuit to the coil (I'm assuming
this in not a diesel) that is energized with the start button.
It sounds like this one is fine, and allows the motor to run as
long as the button is pressed. The regular ignition circuit is
open, so when you let up on the button, the motor dies for lack
of spark.

I'd get busy with the circuit tester.

Check the connections on your oil pressure sensor first....Try removing
one leg (I think it only has one leg) and see if it fixes the problem...
if it does, replace the sensor...DO NOT LEAVE IT OFF OR YOU MAY DESTROY
YOUR ENGINE (Or try shorting it to ground... can;t remember if shorting
it or opening it simulates good pressure)

Also... just a dumb question... is there sufficient oil in the unit?

When you hit the starter, it overrides the oil pressure sensor, then
when you let go, it puts it back in the circuit. It is very common for
this problem to happen after an oil change if you forgot to fill the new
oil filter with oil before replacing it. It this is the case, it will
usually fix itself withing a couple trys.

Starters on those units are expensive so don't hold the switch down to
keep it running.



IBNFSHN wrote:
If it an older model, check for a ballast resistor in the circuit. Older GM
vehicles used these and when they went would cause an identical problem.
They were designed that way to reduce points burning out to quickly.

Ed wrote in message ...
Check the connections on your oil pressure sensor first....Try removing
one leg (I think it only has one leg) and see if it fixes the problem...
if it does, replace the sensor...DO NOT LEAVE IT OFF OR YOU MAY DESTROY
YOUR ENGINE (Or try shorting it to ground... can;t remember if shorting
it or opening it simulates good pressure)

Also... just a dumb question... is there sufficient oil in the unit?

When you hit the starter, it overrides the oil pressure sensor, then
when you let go, it puts it back in the circuit. It is very common for
this problem to happen after an oil change if you forgot to fill the new
oil filter with oil before replacing it. It this is the case, it will
usually fix itself withing a couple trys.

Starters on those units are expensive so don't hold the switch down to
keep it running.



IBNFSHN wrote:
If it an older model, check for a ballast resistor in the circuit. Older GM
vehicles used these and when they went would cause an identical problem.
They were designed that way to reduce points burning out to quickly.


I agree with the above. If it's a diesel they require a fair amount of
oil pressure to over come the oil pressure shut off switch. Get a new
one, if it continuse to be a problem check the oil pressure.

wrote in message
om...
Will start and run as ling as I hold the start button. When let up on
start
button the thing dies. What is gong on and how do I correct?


Like others have indicated, it could be the over temperature or oil pressure
protection circuits shutting it down. it could also be a failed relay, or
even a fuse.

When you press the start button, the fuel pump and coil are powered from the
starting battery. Once the generator is producing its own power it uses a
portion of this power to generate its own 12 volts. This in turn activates
a relay that transfers the fuel pump and coil to the generator's output
instead of the starting battery.

The over temperature and oil pressure shutdown switches are in series with
this circuit, as well as a fuse. To get the generator to run on its own,
you need:

1) the generator has to actually produce electricity.
2) the relay has to function.
3) the fuse has to be intact.
4) the over temperature and oil pressure switch has to be closed.


You should be able to get an indication for #1 while you are still holding
the starter switch; that is, while it is still running by benefit of the
starter switch being held you should see 110 volts being generated.

#2 can be a bitch to trace out. Take the cover off the control panel and
look on the inside of the cover, you may have a wiring diagram printed on
the inside (my Onan had one, and I know a lot of others did too).

#3 should be easy, the fuse should be on the panel next to the start/stop
switch right on the generator itself.

#4 You should be able to find the protection switches and bypass them for
testing. Like someone else said, if you bypass the oil pressure switch then
you had better make sure that you have oil pressure!

Rod

Ed wrote in message ...
Check the connections on your oil pressure sensor first....Try removing
one leg (I think it only has one leg) and see if it fixes the problem...
if it does, replace the sensor...DO NOT LEAVE IT OFF OR YOU MAY DESTROY
YOUR ENGINE (Or try shorting it to ground... can;t remember if shorting
it or opening it simulates good pressure)

Mine also has a temperature switch. Like your oil pressure example, I
can't remember if the switch opens or closes when the set overheats.
But same thing - it will crank, but won't run if the sensor is
activated.


Also... just a dumb question... is there sufficient oil in the unit?

When you hit the starter, it overrides the oil pressure sensor, then
when you let go, it puts it back in the circuit. It is very common for
this problem to happen after an oil change if you forgot to fill the new
oil filter with oil before replacing it. It this is the case, it will
usually fix itself withing a couple trys.

Starters on those units are expensive so don't hold the switch down to
keep it running.



IBNFSHN wrote:
If it an older model, check for a ballast resistor in the circuit. Older GM
vehicles used these and when they went would cause an identical problem.
They were designed that way to reduce points burning out to quickly.