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On Monday, 9 October 2017 12:36:45 UTC-3, John H wrote:
On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 07:55:36 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: On Monday, 9 October 2017 00:01:32 UTC-3, Bill wrote: John H wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2017 23:10:23 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 21:32:01 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote: As far as can be told here, your "expertise" in boating is limited to buying non-collectible firearms from a Ruger auction site. I'm not a fan of I/O's for several reasons, but I've seen - literally - thousands of boats of all sizes out on the ocean powered by I/O's. The only I/Os we see here are big go fast boats with 7+ liter V-8s in them or snow birds who have not figured out they have the wrong boat yet. Even now, the go fast crowd is migrating to trip or quad outboards. I see a Yellowfin 36 out at the beach now and then running trip 7 Marines. I/Os may be fine as a northern trailer boat but they suck in tropical salt water, especially if they are raw water cooled. The last time I did a survey, we had 78 boats in my little 120 resident neighborhood. None are I/Os. Half are Yamaha, a quarter Mercury and the remaining quarter are Zekes, 2 smoke OMCs, One Etec and one Honda. I don't remember the last time I saw an I.O on the river but I am sure it had out of state numbers on it. I understand the I/O is pretty popular on the Chesapeake but that may just be because it is not really salt water and that the are cheap. It may make sense for a person looking at a 3-4 month season. My experience with the I/O in the Chesapeake taught me to never, ever have another I/O in salt water. Many folks here suggested that Donnee look at an outboard instead of an I/O, but, of course, Donnee knew better. A trailer boat I/O probably does ok in the salt. You wash them off after a day of salt. Bingo...and I do flush religiously. For what it's worthl, I flushed mine every time I took it out. The manifolds and risers still needed replacing after about five years. My dealer told me 10-12 years. |
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On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 07:59:36 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote: On Monday, 9 October 2017 09:25:51 UTC-3, Keyser Soze wrote: On 10/9/17 8:08 AM, justan wrote: Keyser Soze Wrote in message: Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 5:21:15 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 10/8/2017 11:01 PM, Bill wrote: John H wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2017 23:10:23 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 21:32:01 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote: As far as can be told here, your "expertise" in boating is limited to buying non-collectible firearms from a Ruger auction site. I'm not a fan of I/O's for several reasons, but I've seen - literally - thousands of boats of all sizes out on the ocean powered by I/O's. The only I/Os we see here are big go fast boats with 7+ liter V-8s in them or snow birds who have not figured out they have the wrong boat yet. Even now, the go fast crowd is migrating to trip or quad outboards. I see a Yellowfin 36 out at the beach now and then running trip 7 Marines. I/Os may be fine as a northern trailer boat but they suck in tropical salt water, especially if they are raw water cooled. The last time I did a survey, we had 78 boats in my little 120 resident neighborhood. None are I/Os. Half are Yamaha, a quarter Mercury and the remaining quarter are Zekes, 2 smoke OMCs, One Etec and one Honda. I don't remember the last time I saw an I.O on the river but I am sure it had out of state numbers on it. I understand the I/O is pretty popular on the Chesapeake but that may just be because it is not really salt water and that the are cheap. It may make sense for a person looking at a 3-4 month season. My experience with the I/O in the Chesapeake taught me to never, ever have another I/O in salt water. Many folks here suggested that Donnee look at an outboard instead of an I/O, but, of course, Donnee knew better. A trailer boat I/O probably does ok in the salt. You wash them off after a day of salt. How do you rinse the engine internals and risers if raw water cooled? Take it home or some place you can hook a garden hose to the 'muffs' , put it on the engine lower where the water inlet is, start the engine, and let the water flush the system. Pretty easy, really. muffs https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/e4a...0&odnBg=FFFFFF engine being flushed... https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GcpyCMjhemU/maxresdefault.jpg You can buy a flush valve that is plumbed into the raw water line from the drive to the engine and attach a fresh water hose. It is not rocket science. -- Posted with my iPad Pro Aparently it is to you. Unless you can show me how it's done. Then I'll give you a formal apology. http://www.quickflushvalve.com/editorial http://www.quickflushvalve.com/how-it-works.html I assume this works sort of like the fresh water flush on a modern outboard, in which you screw in a garden hose to a receptacle on the rear or side of the engine and turn on the water, with the hose pressure forcing the water through the engine and out through the lower unit. I had this feature on my 2012 Mercury 60hp Big Foot outboard. I would flush it this way and then the old fashioned muff method anytime I boated in salt water. I put 3000+ hours on my 60 big foot and it was never flushed. It did not sit around that much either. |
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On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 11:02:15 -0400,
wrote: On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 10:57:16 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 05:32:04 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 6:24:07 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: Oh yeah. Forgot about that. Been a long time since I had an I/O. BTW ... ran across this great video on how to change the oil on a Yamaha 300 four stroke outboard. It's really a pleasure to watch a pro at work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkDCpqgFkHs She's probably a pro at more than merely changing oil.. LOL Yamaha really says you should suck the old oil out ... write your own jokes there. ;-) === It would be a heck of a lot easier than removing and replacing that lower piece of cowling. That's probably necessary if you're going to replace the gear lube however. The plugs for the gear lube are below the cavitation plate so you can get right at them. I am not sure why Yamaha hides the engine drain plug behind the lower cowl. It is not on all models. Mine is in the open, on the back of the leg. (F70) On the merc it was on the side but there was a hole in the cowl so you could get to it. I still use the suck it out method most of the time. There is no spilling so I can do it on the lift. |
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On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 09:19:33 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote: On Monday, 9 October 2017 11:57:44 UTC-3, wrote: On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 05:32:04 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 6:24:07 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 10/9/2017 6:36 AM, Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 5:21:15 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 10/8/2017 11:01 PM, Bill wrote: John H wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2017 23:10:23 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 7 Oct 2017 21:32:01 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote: As far as can be told here, your "expertise" in boating is limited to buying non-collectible firearms from a Ruger auction site. I'm not a fan of I/O's for several reasons, but I've seen - literally - thousands of boats of all sizes out on the ocean powered by I/O's. The only I/Os we see here are big go fast boats with 7+ liter V-8s in them or snow birds who have not figured out they have the wrong boat yet. Even now, the go fast crowd is migrating to trip or quad outboards. I see a Yellowfin 36 out at the beach now and then running trip 7 Marines. I/Os may be fine as a northern trailer boat but they suck in tropical salt water, especially if they are raw water cooled. The last time I did a survey, we had 78 boats in my little 120 resident neighborhood. None are I/Os. Half are Yamaha, a quarter Mercury and the remaining quarter are Zekes, 2 smoke OMCs, One Etec and one Honda. I don't remember the last time I saw an I.O on the river but I am sure it had out of state numbers on it. I understand the I/O is pretty popular on the Chesapeake but that may just be because it is not really salt water and that the are cheap. It may make sense for a person looking at a 3-4 month season. My experience with the I/O in the Chesapeake taught me to never, ever have another I/O in salt water. Many folks here suggested that Donnee look at an outboard instead of an I/O, but, of course, Donnee knew better. A trailer boat I/O probably does ok in the salt. You wash them off after a day of salt. How do you rinse the engine internals and risers if raw water cooled? Take it home or some place you can hook a garden hose to the 'muffs' , put it on the engine lower where the water inlet is, start the engine, and let the water flush the system. Pretty easy, really. muffs https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/e4a...0&odnBg=FFFFFF engine being flushed... https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GcpyCMjhemU/maxresdefault.jpg Oh yeah. Forgot about that. Been a long time since I had an I/O. BTW ... ran across this great video on how to change the oil on a Yamaha 300 four stroke outboard. It's really a pleasure to watch a pro at work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkDCpqgFkHs She's probably a pro at more than merely changing oil.. LOL Yamaha really says you should suck the old oil out ... write your own jokes there. ;-) The dealer guy who comes to do my winterization uses a canister vacuum type of device to remove the engine oil...a lot better than trying to touch feel around for the oil plug in the bilge and then drain without making a mess. --- === This is what I use: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-changer-2-9-quart--11097714?recordNum=2 Probably the same thing. I think you can get them for less if you shop around. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
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On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 09:21:31 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote: A trailer boat I/O probably does ok in the salt. You wash them off after a day of salt. Bingo...and I do flush religiously. For what it's worthl, I flushed mine every time I took it out. The manifolds and risers still needed replacing after about five years. My dealer told me 10-12 years. === Old joke: Do you know how to tell when a dealer is lying? Answer: When their lips are moving. In fairness to your dealer they may last longer in Nova Scotia because of the cold water and short season, especially if you flush regularly. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
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9:57 AMTrue North
On Monday, 9 October 2017 07:36:43 UTC-3, Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 5:21:15 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 10/8/2017 11:01 PM, Bill wrote: John H wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2017 23:10:23 -0400, wrote: - show quoted text - I always did this after salt water use...even with my outboards. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy...especially with new stuff. .... My boats are fresh water but even after I get home I still flush em out. One small lake is loaded with algae and the boat needs the pond scum washed off anyhow so... |
Alert! Alert!...boating post
On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 10:01:00 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: 9:57 AMTrue North On Monday, 9 October 2017 07:36:43 UTC-3, Tim wrote: On Monday, October 9, 2017 at 5:21:15 AM UTC-5, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 10/8/2017 11:01 PM, Bill wrote: John H wrote: On Sat, 07 Oct 2017 23:10:23 -0400, wrote: - show quoted text - I always did this after salt water use...even with my outboards. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy...especially with new stuff. ... My boats are fresh water but even after I get home I still flush em out. One small lake is loaded with algae and the boat needs the pond scum washed off anyhow so... I am not convinced my well water is any better than the river water ;-) |
Alert! Alert!...boating post
On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 10:01:00 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: - show quoted text - I am not convinced my well water is any better than the river water ;-) ..... Up at the farm I dump a couple gallons of bleach in my well every year. It turns the moss stuff instantly brown and I flush it till the water turns clear. For a month after the water smells like a swimming pool but that's ok. It's handy to have and is virtually free. So... |
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