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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:45:41 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:06:45 -0500, Wayne.B wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

===

Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new
distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more
than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so
there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock
on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was
powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my
share of failed joints with that.

The directions that come with the compression fittings I've bought or looked at said to use no tape
or compound.

===

That's absolutely correct for compression fittings. My fittings were
NPT (National Pipe Tapered Thread), a standard since 1864.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread

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On 2/24/2014 7:43 PM, KC wrote:
On 2/24/2014 6:05 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

===

Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new
distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more
than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so
there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock
on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was
powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my
share of failed joints with that.


Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high
vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal
against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric
pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is
to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening
the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against
itself.

We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would
outgas into the vacuum.



So, is the end of the tape facing the direction of twist, or away from
the direction of twist... I am confused.

The end of the tape wrap will be *away* from the direction of twist to
install the fitting.

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I was trying to imitate your cackling , Johnny.

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On 2/24/2014 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:05:10 -0500, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

===

Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new
distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more
than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so
there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock
on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was
powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my
share of failed joints with that.


Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high
vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal
against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric
pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is
to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening
the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against itself.

We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would
outgas into the vacuum.


The vacuum in outer space is 14.7 PSI if you maintained 1 BAR in the
vessel. . That is not really much. The galvanized piping in my shop
air system runs 150 PSI and it is tight.
I have done plenty of piping with teflon tape and this is really the
first time I had a problem. When I put the calipers on the fitting it
was about .040-.050" bigger than the threads on a female adapter at
the top of the stack.
I have an incident open at Hayward but they haven't come up with an
answer.
Using the pipe nipple does seem to be a good work around tho. I wish I
had started out that way and this would have been a 45 minute project,
not 4 days.


In a high vacuum chamber the delta P is not the issue. The issue is
prevention of any gas molecules leaking or permeating through seals into
the vacuum.

An air compressor system or a water tight fitting can still have a leak
that looks like the Grand Canyon in terms of an opening to a helium gas
molecule and will prevent the vacuum chamber from achieving it's
ultimate vacuum state. A good vacuum cleaner can draw a vacuum that is
14.6 PSI delta. It's getting to 14.66666666666669 that is difficult.

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On 2/24/14, 8:11 PM, True North wrote:
I was trying to imitate your cackling , Johnny.



You mean the "hehehehehe" thingie he does? hehehehehe

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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:11:16 -0800 (PST), True North wrote:

I was trying to imitate your cackling , Johnny.

No explanation necessary, Don. I just figure you've got a sinus infection or a more severe plugged
nose problem.

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On 2/24/2014 8:42 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 19:41:56 -0500, KC wrote:


It's awesome swimming in the salted water in our pool...

It should be about 5 ppt salt, about the same as the bay, up in the
North East spur past Baltimore (or the Potomac around Port Tobacco).



Ok... I just poured in what the directions said and it was good... The
computer in the chlorinatior took care of the percentages:)

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On 2/24/2014 8:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:32:00 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:

Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore?
That's a step in the right direction!

A salt water pool still uses chlorine, it just stays "mostly" in the
generator vessel.

I am amused when people complain about the chlorine tho,
A properly balanced pool tests exactly the same as WSSC tap water.

I have my routine down to the point that I spend about 10 minutes a
week on the pool in the summer. Basically get the pH right, then I
drop 2.5 tabs in the pool floater, the other half in the spa floater,
shock the pool with a gallon and a half of liquid chlorine.

In the winter you can cut that all by half or more.

I used to run the cleaner 6 hours every day but now I just run it
about once or twice a week.


Because you are avoiding swings, you can run lower levels across the
board than required in a regular system...

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On 2/24/2014 8:02 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 7:43 PM, KC wrote:
On 2/24/2014 6:05 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

===

Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new
distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more
than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so
there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock
on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was
powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my
share of failed joints with that.


Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high
vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal
against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric
pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is
to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening
the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against
itself.

We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would
outgas into the vacuum.



So, is the end of the tape facing the direction of twist, or away from
the direction of twist... I am confused.

The end of the tape wrap will be *away* from the direction of twist to
install the fitting.



Good.. Cause that's the way I been doing it all my life:)

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On 2/24/2014 8:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:32:00 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:

Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore?
That's a step in the right direction!

A salt water pool still uses chlorine, it just stays "mostly" in the
generator vessel.

I am amused when people complain about the chlorine tho,
A properly balanced pool tests exactly the same as WSSC tap water.

I have my routine down to the point that I spend about 10 minutes a
week on the pool in the summer. Basically get the pH right, then I
drop 2.5 tabs in the pool floater, the other half in the spa floater,
shock the pool with a gallon and a half of liquid chlorine.

In the winter you can cut that all by half or more.

I used to run the cleaner 6 hours every day but now I just run it
about once or twice a week.



I don't understand your comment, "A salt water pool still uses chlorine,
it just stays "mostly" in the generator vessel".

The chlorine generated by the cell resides in the pool water, not in the
cell or "generator vessel" (whatever that is).

It's not a "salt water pool". The salt concentration is very low
compared to that of sea water. You don't sense or taste "salt". The
normal concentration of about 3,000 parts per million is well below the
ability of the human taste or smell senses to detect.
Ocean water contains about 35,000 ppm of salt by comparison.

Also, a pool with salt system typically operates at a lower chlorine
level overall than a conventional tablet or liquid chlorine system.

The routine that you do is eliminated. No more tablets or liquid shock
that cause oscillations in the pool chemistry. The salt system is more
like a closed loop proportional controller that keeps everything at a
stable level, adjusting as required automatically (if you have the
automated system) for heat, sunshine, use, evaporation, rain, etc.