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On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. |
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On 2/24/2014 7:13 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. I know how you feel. I despise having to do anything related to plumbing. Electrical, no problem but I usually break more than I fix when trying to work on plumbing. |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:19:47 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 2/24/2014 7:13 AM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. I know how you feel. I despise having to do anything related to plumbing. Electrical, no problem but I usually break more than I fix when trying to work on plumbing. The last time I called a plumber, maybe ten years ago, my basement had flooded. The sump pump was not working and we'd had lots of rain. The plumber said the pump had burned up because it was running constantly, and the reason was because I had a broken water main coming from the street. The water was supposedly seeping under the house and coming into the sump. He gave me an estimate in the $10K range to put in a new main. Luckily I called the county water guys, thinking it might be *their* pipe leaking out by the sidewalk. County guy came out, put something on the valve out by the street, and pronounced no leak anywhere. I spent $129 on a new sump pump and the problem's history. But I have an immense distrust of plumbers now. |
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On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal Yup, SharkBites are made for plastic but work for metal.... I did my whole house in plastic a few years ago.. |
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On 2/24/2014 10:31 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. If you house was plumbed with copper more than about 10-15 years ago it was put together with lead solder and that comes with it's own warnings. At a certain point we all die of something and contaminated water from your plumbing method does not even make the list. Look up "Pex Pipe", that's what I have running all over my house... Like I said, "they are expensive and you don't want to do you whole house", then you said "they are expensive and you don't want to do the whole house" :) |
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On 2/24/2014 11:05 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:39:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/24/2014 10:31 AM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. If you house was plumbed with copper more than about 10-15 years ago it was put together with lead solder and that comes with it's own warnings. At a certain point we all die of something and contaminated water from your plumbing method does not even make the list. Look up "Pex Pipe", that's what I have running all over my house... Like I said, "they are expensive and you don't want to do you whole house", then you said "they are expensive and you don't want to do the whole house" :) A rare case of agreement on Rec.Boats ;-) Do you have the good crimp ring tool for the Pex? If I was replumbing the whole house I would certainly think about that method. My neighbor has it in his house and everything home runs back to a "manablock" with a separate valve for each run so he can selectively turn off the water to each fixture. I used the push on ones in exposed areas. The way I set my house up I have separate runs for different areas of the house, not as fancy as the pics on google but I know where to turn what off if I need to. This came in real handy last week when I had to winterize the house in the freeze after kicking the deadbeats out.... From the floor to the fixtures though, I still go Copper, mostly cause I like to have a solid mount shutoff under sinks and stuff... LIke I said, the best thing is if I left any water in the system, it shouldn't break any pipes.... |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. |
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On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. |
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On Monday, 24 February 2014 15:43:54 UTC-4, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. ~~ Snerk ~~ |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. Help what? I see you got Don sucking snot! |
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On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are wet. :-) |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:01:52 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:
On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are wet. :-) Please, no. I've still got a gallon container under it, just in case. I'll give it 48 hours. If no leak, I'll remove the container. Wife will be happy again. |
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On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Well, let me know in 40 years... |
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On 2/24/2014 3:01 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are wet. :-) Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... |
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On 2/24/14, 2:55 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. Help what? I see you got Don sucking snot! Your inability to take a leak... |
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On 2/24/2014 5:00 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. This stuff in a pinch is absolutly the most valuable tool in my plumbing pouch. I keep one in the truck one in the camper.. etc.. the stuff will work in any conditions, any time, any place, and I have a couple repairs I did in Essex nearly 10 years ago that haven't dropped a drop till last summer when I took the lengths of pipe out and replaced them.... http://www.lowes.com/pd_26668-66601-...ductId=1076397 Just get a pack next time you are out, it's like having a cool glue in your drawer, it WILL come in handy someday... |
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On 2/24/2014 5:12 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) I've shared Gregg's problem. I replaced our pool pump last year and had a heck of a time re-seating the threaded PVC fittings into the filter housing with no leaks. I don't think the plastic housing used on the filter is the same type of plastic as the PVC coupling fitting. It wasn't a huge, squirting leak. It was just weeping. I mentioned it to the guy we get our pool supplies from and he said I should have just cut the coupling off and replaced it with a new one. Apparently the threads distort and really can't be reused successfully. |
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On 2/24/2014 5:12 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) I had a Hayward plumbing fitment problem last year. The pool Supply store had what was needed. |
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On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. |
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On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote: I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. === Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my share of failed joints with that. Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against itself. We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would outgas into the vacuum. |
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On 2/24/2014 5:54 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. I have no particular affection for having a pool but after having four of them in different houses, I have to admit that technology has made routine maintenance chores almost non-existent. Automatic chlorine generators (using salt) and a microprocessor than monitors and controls it's operation has made the requirement for weekly chemical tests and making constant adjustments obsolete. The pool we have takes some cleanup when opened in the spring (because of our location) but after it is up and running, that's about all we have to do for the summer. We have the water tested 2 or 3 times during the season just to be sure everything is ok and it always is. We also invested in a "Shark" that automatically scoots around the pool bottom and sides, picking up any debris that may have fallen in and settled. I change the diatomaceous earth filter media two or three times during the start-up, but again, once the pool is clear and clean, it's good for pretty much the whole season. Not like the old chlorine pools we had before. |
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On 2/24/14, 6:28 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 5:54 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. I have no particular affection for having a pool but after having four of them in different houses, I have to admit that technology has made routine maintenance chores almost non-existent. Automatic chlorine generators (using salt) and a microprocessor than monitors and controls it's operation has made the requirement for weekly chemical tests and making constant adjustments obsolete. The pool we have takes some cleanup when opened in the spring (because of our location) but after it is up and running, that's about all we have to do for the summer. We have the water tested 2 or 3 times during the season just to be sure everything is ok and it always is. We also invested in a "Shark" that automatically scoots around the pool bottom and sides, picking up any debris that may have fallen in and settled. I change the diatomaceous earth filter media two or three times during the start-up, but again, once the pool is clear and clean, it's good for pretty much the whole season. Not like the old chlorine pools we had before. Oh, and I don't like to swim in pools, either. Or lakes. Or Chesapeake Bay. The ocean is about it for me. I don't know why that is. Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore? That's a step in the right direction! |
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On 2/24/2014 6:23 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:34:01 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:12 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) I've shared Gregg's problem. I replaced our pool pump last year and had a heck of a time re-seating the threaded PVC fittings into the filter housing with no leaks. I don't think the plastic housing used on the filter is the same type of plastic as the PVC coupling fitting. It wasn't a huge, squirting leak. It was just weeping. I mentioned it to the guy we get our pool supplies from and he said I should have just cut the coupling off and replaced it with a new one. Apparently the threads distort and really can't be reused successfully. I was using brand new male adapters (two different brands) and the shoulder bottomed out before the tapered threads sealed. No joy with the recommended 3 wraps of teflon tape, 6 wraps or the paste. I also tried O rings at the shoulders and by the time I got the fitting tight enough to seat the O ring, the fitting cracked at the threaded part. As mentioned in another post, teflon tape is tricky. You have to make sure you wrap it in the opposite direction that the threads will turn when tightening the fitting. Otherwise, it will bunch up on itself, causing irregularities in the seal. The natural tendency is to wrap it in the wrong direction. |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:08 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 2:55 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. Help what? I see you got Don sucking snot! Your inability to take a leak... Do you find yourself humorous? |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:29:03 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote: On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote: ...in my house is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI I despise plumbing. They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at "shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to... Most of the plumbing down here is plastic. Florida water eats metal I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not. Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns. Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure! May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced. Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours. Yippee. They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any hardware/home store. . They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work. But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. If the compression fitting is not leaking, and the ring is undamaged, you can usually just screw the new angle stop on without changing the ring or nut. One turn of teflon tape will let you tighten it up without galling the threads. (this is not a sealant, just a lubricant). I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. Those are the two biggest 'ifs' in the whole operation! Well, there's one more - if the compression nut will thread onto the new valve. |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:06:45 -0500, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote: I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. === Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my share of failed joints with that. The directions that come with the compression fittings I've bought or looked at said to use no tape or compound. |
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On 2/24/2014 6:32 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 6:28 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:54 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. I have no particular affection for having a pool but after having four of them in different houses, I have to admit that technology has made routine maintenance chores almost non-existent. Automatic chlorine generators (using salt) and a microprocessor than monitors and controls it's operation has made the requirement for weekly chemical tests and making constant adjustments obsolete. The pool we have takes some cleanup when opened in the spring (because of our location) but after it is up and running, that's about all we have to do for the summer. We have the water tested 2 or 3 times during the season just to be sure everything is ok and it always is. We also invested in a "Shark" that automatically scoots around the pool bottom and sides, picking up any debris that may have fallen in and settled. I change the diatomaceous earth filter media two or three times during the start-up, but again, once the pool is clear and clean, it's good for pretty much the whole season. Not like the old chlorine pools we had before. Oh, and I don't like to swim in pools, either. Or lakes. Or Chesapeake Bay. The ocean is about it for me. I don't know why that is. Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore? That's a step in the right direction! Chlorine is still used but in most newer pools it is generated by electrically disassociating salt. So, you don't add chlorine or chlorine tablets. You add salt. Bags of it. When running properly, you can't smell or detect any chlorine presence. The system controls the required chlorination much more accurately than by using tablets or liquid. Plus, for some reason I don't totally understand, a chlorine by salt pool has a silky feel to the water. I love the ocean as well but a properly operating pool is a lot more sanitary. |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:05:10 -0500, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote: I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. === Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my share of failed joints with that. Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against itself. We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would outgas into the vacuum. === I had some experience with high vacuum work many years ago near the beginning of my adult life. It was a high energy synchrotron particle accelerator at Cornell University and had a magnet ring 1/2 mile in circumference. There was a vacuum chamber running through the middle of the magnets where the actual particle acceleration took place. http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Outreac...sMacCHESS.html http://www.cornell.edu/outreach/prog...programid=1801 |
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On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:42:51 PM UTC-5, John H. wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:08 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:55 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. Help what? I see you got Don sucking snot! Your inability to take a leak... Do you find yourself humorous? His attemps at humor are lame and sophomoric. But it did make Don laugh! |
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On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:00:13 -0800 (PST), wrote:
On Monday, February 24, 2014 6:42:51 PM UTC-5, John H. wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:08 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:55 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote: But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak. Perhaps a diuretic would help. Help what? I see you got Don sucking snot! Your inability to take a leak... Do you find yourself humorous? His attemps at humor are lame and sophomoric. But it did make Don laugh! Was that what that was? I thought his nose was running. My bad. |
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On 2/24/2014 6:47 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 6:32 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 6:28 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:54 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. I have no particular affection for having a pool but after having four of them in different houses, I have to admit that technology has made routine maintenance chores almost non-existent. Automatic chlorine generators (using salt) and a microprocessor than monitors and controls it's operation has made the requirement for weekly chemical tests and making constant adjustments obsolete. The pool we have takes some cleanup when opened in the spring (because of our location) but after it is up and running, that's about all we have to do for the summer. We have the water tested 2 or 3 times during the season just to be sure everything is ok and it always is. We also invested in a "Shark" that automatically scoots around the pool bottom and sides, picking up any debris that may have fallen in and settled. I change the diatomaceous earth filter media two or three times during the start-up, but again, once the pool is clear and clean, it's good for pretty much the whole season. Not like the old chlorine pools we had before. Oh, and I don't like to swim in pools, either. Or lakes. Or Chesapeake Bay. The ocean is about it for me. I don't know why that is. Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore? That's a step in the right direction! Chlorine is still used but in most newer pools it is generated by electrically disassociating salt. So, you don't add chlorine or chlorine tablets. You add salt. Bags of it. When running properly, you can't smell or detect any chlorine presence. The system controls the required chlorination much more accurately than by using tablets or liquid. Plus, for some reason I don't totally understand, a chlorine by salt pool has a silky feel to the water. I love the ocean as well but a properly operating pool is a lot more sanitary. Think water softener salt. |
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On 2/24/2014 6:55 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:05:10 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote: I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. === Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my share of failed joints with that. Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against itself. We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would outgas into the vacuum. === I had some experience with high vacuum work many years ago near the beginning of my adult life. It was a high energy synchrotron particle accelerator at Cornell University and had a magnet ring 1/2 mile in circumference. There was a vacuum chamber running through the middle of the magnets where the actual particle acceleration took place. http://www.chess.cornell.edu/Outreac...sMacCHESS.html http://www.cornell.edu/outreach/prog...programid=1801 The vacuum requirements in a system like that precludes use of o-rings and teflon tape. They will seal, but they are permeable meaning the smaller gas molecules will work their way through the teflon or o-ring material. In systems like that, all metal seals are typically used. They are usually copper rings used in a feedthrough called a "Con-Flat". The fitting is stainless and has machined knife edges that, when tightened, compress into the copper ring forming the seal. High vacuum levels are hard to visualize. The best way to describe it is "mean free path" which is the distance a gas molecule will travel before crashing into another gas molecule. At atmospheric pressure, that distance is so short to be almost immeasurable. At high vacuum levels (like that of space) the mean free path distance is more like 3 feet or more. In ultra-high vacuum systems the distance is even greater. |
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On 2/24/2014 6:20 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:32:48 -0500, KC wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. This stuff in a pinch is absolutly the most valuable tool in my plumbing pouch. I keep one in the truck one in the camper.. etc.. the stuff will work in any conditions, any time, any place, and I have a couple repairs I did in Essex nearly 10 years ago that haven't dropped a drop till last summer when I took the lengths of pipe out and replaced them.... http://www.lowes.com/pd_26668-66601-...ductId=1076397 Just get a pack next time you are out, it's like having a cool glue in your drawer, it WILL come in handy someday... Since the leak was at the joint up against the filter housing, I am not sure how tape would fix it. I really wanted to fix it right anyway. This stuff will mold around anything... just spend a couple bucks next time you are in Lowes or similar and check it out. Open the pack and play with it, you will see. It's main capability is to form itself into one solid (seemingly) chunk of patch as it sticks to itself and becomes part of itself as you wrap it. It's also very stretchy so you can cross back and fourth and cover even broken joints of different size tubing, etc... |
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On 2/24/2014 7:15 PM, HanK wrote:
On 2/24/2014 6:47 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 2/24/2014 6:32 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 6:28 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 2/24/2014 5:54 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:38 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:12:01 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote: On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote: Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be ****ed right now... I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular male adapter to seal. I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far. Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with a shoulder on it and that seems to be working. You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer tinkering. :) The problem is not the plumber, it is the material. If the fittings do not mate properly, no amount of skill would fix it. I suppose I could have glued it up as a "pool plumber" actually advised but then you are ****ed if you have to take it apart again. Instead of a dollar fitting, you are buying a $250 filter housing. BTW your regular plumber is not really a pool plumber anyway. They really don't like screwing with them. Pool plumbers tend to be the kid at the pool store who got in the business because he likes the smell of the glue. The builder my wife worked for (Centex) had their own pool company and I was not impressed with the people working there. Well, I will gladly plead ignorance about pools and pool maintenance. Whenever we do a significant "home improvement" here, I always take into account how much work it will generate for regular maintenance. That's why I don't have underground sprinklers. Everyone I see around here who has such a system has frequent visits from the underground sprinkler install/maintain companies. I think pools fall into the same category...lots of maintenance. I have no particular affection for having a pool but after having four of them in different houses, I have to admit that technology has made routine maintenance chores almost non-existent. Automatic chlorine generators (using salt) and a microprocessor than monitors and controls it's operation has made the requirement for weekly chemical tests and making constant adjustments obsolete. The pool we have takes some cleanup when opened in the spring (because of our location) but after it is up and running, that's about all we have to do for the summer. We have the water tested 2 or 3 times during the season just to be sure everything is ok and it always is. We also invested in a "Shark" that automatically scoots around the pool bottom and sides, picking up any debris that may have fallen in and settled. I change the diatomaceous earth filter media two or three times during the start-up, but again, once the pool is clear and clean, it's good for pretty much the whole season. Not like the old chlorine pools we had before. Oh, and I don't like to swim in pools, either. Or lakes. Or Chesapeake Bay. The ocean is about it for me. I don't know why that is. Never liked the chlorine in pools. Are you saying it isn't used anymore? That's a step in the right direction! Chlorine is still used but in most newer pools it is generated by electrically disassociating salt. So, you don't add chlorine or chlorine tablets. You add salt. Bags of it. When running properly, you can't smell or detect any chlorine presence. The system controls the required chlorination much more accurately than by using tablets or liquid. Plus, for some reason I don't totally understand, a chlorine by salt pool has a silky feel to the water. I love the ocean as well but a properly operating pool is a lot more sanitary. Think water softener salt. It's awesome swimming in the salted water in our pool... |
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On 2/24/2014 6:05 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 5:06 PM, Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote: I am starting to prefer the teflon paste. === Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my share of failed joints with that. Teflon tape is tricky to use properly. It is often used in the high vacuum industry for all the feedthrough fittings that need to seal against a vacuum equivalent to 200 miles in space to atmospheric pressure. Too little tape, it leaks. To much it leaks. One secret is to wrap it in the direction of the thread, so when you are tightening the connection fitting, the tape is not being stretched back against itself. We couldn't use Teflon paste because it never completely cures and would outgas into the vacuum. So, is the end of the tape facing the direction of twist, or away from the direction of twist... I am confused. |
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