Hello:

Would appreciate opinions on what the "correct" length is for a straight
canoe
paddle ?

I understand that a lot of personal preference goes into this, but is there
a
generally accepted length ?

Seem to remember in years past there were suggestion about putting it on top
of
your foot, and it should reach to your chin; do I have this right ?

Will be doing a conoe trip on the Allagash or St. john River in Maine this
spring, and am not
very familiar with canoes.

Also, what would be the lightest and easiest to handle:
a "normal" wooden shaft, or one of those Aluminum types with a T shape on
the top ?

Which are lighter ? Getting on in years now, and tire easily.

My other question concerns what to use for footwear.
In the early spring in Maine, the water will undoubtedly be "quite" cold,
and of
course the bottom of the canoe will be wet.

Probably way too cold to be comfortable in Teva's or tong type open sandles.

What do you folks use ?

Was thinking of Neoprene booties like one would use as part of a skin-diving
wet suit outfit, but with hard soles so you could actually do some walking
on them.

(feet would be wet, but the principle being that body heat would hopefully
warm up the layer of water next to the skin)

Is this a good idea ?
Other options ?

Think I saw a pix of them, somewhere, but cannot remember where.
Any ideas as to where to purchase these, or what you recommend ?

Much thanks,
Bob




Bob

Robert11 wrote:
Hello:

Would appreciate opinions on what the "correct" length is for a straight
canoe paddle ? I understand that a lot of personal preference goes into this,
but is there a generally accepted length ?

Seem to remember in years past there were suggestion about putting it on top
of your foot, and it should reach to your chin; do I have this right ?

Most people don't paddle canoe with either their feet or their chins, so that
method, while colorful, may not give the best results. If you have the boat you
will be using, or a similar one, get in it in the water with a longish paddle.
Sit or kneel, whichever you will be doing most of; I'm guessing sitting. Hold
the paddle in your grip hand, with your hand around forehead height. If your
forehead goes all the way to the back, like mine, say 1" above the eyebrows.
Reach that hand across your face so that the paddle hangs vertically in the
water without touching the side of the boat. You could twist your body to make
that happen, that's good. Now measure the part of the paddle that isn't wet.
That's the shaft length you need. Now just decide what kind of blade you like.

Will be doing a conoe trip on the Allagash or St. john River in Maine this
spring, and am not very familiar with canoes. Also, what would be the
lightest and easiest to handle: a "normal" wooden shaft, or one of those
Aluminum types with a T shape on the top ? Which are lighter ? Getting on
in years now, and tire easily.

I'm guessing you're not going to be in whitewater, so you probably want a tulip
or pear grip, not a T. If your joints are getting on, you want a paddle with a
little flex in it. Wood is better than aluminum for that.

My other question concerns what to use for footwear. In the early spring in
Maine, the water will undoubtedly be "quite" cold, and of course the bottom
of the canoe will be wet. Probably way too cold to be comfortable in Teva's
or tong type open sandles.

Chota mukluks or NRS River boots. The more expensive ones have stiffer soles.

Have a great time.

Steve Cramer
Athens, GA

Robert11 wrote:

Hello:

Would appreciate opinions on what the "correct" length is for a straight
canoe
paddle ?

I understand that a lot of personal preference goes into this, but is there
a
generally accepted length ?

You are correct in assuming that personal taste is a large part of the
equation. Body size / arm length / will you be bow or stern - these are
the major components, assuming that you will be travelling downriver. Is
the blade relatively broad or narrow is an important question, but
that's more related to power / maneuverability / endurance than "proper
fit" meaning proper for you at a given time. I have paddles from 5' to
6'; some are fairly narrow while others are broad. If I'm standing -
usually the case in anything up to Class III and even then for short
moments - then I'm using the 6' paddles exclusively. If sitting - either
as bow man or even stern in calm water, I'll got to 5 1/2' with broader
blade. If I'm kneeling & really digging in for quick power in white
water, then the 5' w/ broad blade suits me best in shallower water while
with more depth I'll stay with the 5 1/2.

Also, what would be the lightest and easiest to handle:
a "normal" wooden shaft, or one of those Aluminum types with a T shape on
the top ?

Despite their being sturdy, those aluminum shaft cum plastic blade jobs
are lifeless & a drudge. A good wooden paddle will have flex & spring
that aid your stroke and help minimize fatigue. Difference in weight
isns't a large factor - for me at least - where "character" (more than
just the looks) is essential. And beware the wooden paddle that's
laminated through its entire length: they're as dead & unresponsive as
the sysnthetic ones. Having the blade laminated for looks &/or strength
is fine so long as the shaft can flex with your stroke. Personally, I
feel it's best to have some flex through the entire length, blade as
well as shaft.

If you're going to do the St. John or Allagash, I would recommend you
drop into Porter's Woodworking in Patten. They're just a short way off
Route 11 on the Shin Pond Road that leads to the north entrance to
Baxter Park. They make an excellent line of paddles; they're suppliers
of paddles, seats, thwarts etc. for L.L.Bean, Old Town Canoe & other
outlets. I use their paddles almost exclusively.

One thing you didn't mention & some in the woods find too late is a big
problem: how many paddles? My rule of thumb is 1 paddle per person, 1
paddle for the canoe, 1 spare. Thus: 1 canoe w/ 2 persons = 4 paddles.
Extras can be used as support for tarps in wet weather as well as the
reassurance of spares if a regular paddle gets lost or broken. And if
you dump, easily done for even experienced canoeists, you'ld be
surprised how soon a paddle will take off downstream - if you have no
spares then you might never catch up with it.


Was thinking of Neoprene booties .....

(feet would be wet, but the principle being that body heat would hopefully
warm up the layer of water next to the skin)


Given your description, I would have neoprene booties & oversize
sneakers/hiking shoes. The booties will give insulation & retain body
heat even if you have to step overboard now'n'again for rocks, landings,
etc. The shoes will give support & traction but don't count on them for
warmth. I would NOT rely on body heat to warm up wet feet; chances are
you'll be in generally wetish conditions where the constant drain of
body heat will easily produce a level of discomfort that will eat into
every aspect of the day.

Good luck - enjoy!

Yours in the north Maine woods,
Pete Hilton (Reg. Maine Guide) aka Pogo aka The Ent

--
Freedom is participation in power.
Cicero

"Peter H" wrote in message ...
Yours in the north Maine woods,
Pete Hilton (Reg. Maine Guide) aka Pogo aka The Ent



Hey Pete: How long have you been a Maine Guide? I guess I didn't know you
were one of the clan. :-)

--riverman
(First Guide's License was number 0000010, back in 1982)

riverman wrote:

"Peter H" wrote in message ...


Yours in the north Maine woods,
Pete Hilton (Reg. Maine Guide) aka Pogo aka The Ent





Hey Pete: How long have you been a Maine Guide? I guess I didn't know you
were one of the clan. :-)

Spiritually or legally? LOL!

I've been badgered about taking the tests for about 12-15 years by a
very close friend who has been a guide since the early 50's & I've
studied with a retired warden supervisor who's been guiding longer than
I've been alive. Only had a license since last year. Didn't really need
one at first except for "personal satisfaction," if you will - but with
the opportunity (I hope) of retirement @ 62 I'll have a means of a
part-time job which will help ends meet & I'll be doing something I
really love as well.

Pete

--
Freedom is participation in power.
Cicero

"Peter H" wrote in message
...
riverman wrote:

"Peter H" wrote in message
...


Yours in the north Maine woods,
Pete Hilton (Reg. Maine Guide) aka Pogo aka The Ent

Hey Pete: How long have you been a Maine Guide? I guess I didn't know you
were one of the clan. :-)

Spiritually or legally? LOL!

I've been badgered about taking the tests for about 12-15 years by a
very close friend who has been a guide since the early 50's & I've
studied with a retired warden supervisor who's been guiding longer than
I've been alive. Only had a license since last year. Didn't really need
one at first except for "personal satisfaction," if you will - but with
the opportunity (I hope) of retirement @ 62 I'll have a means of a
part-time job which will help ends meet & I'll be doing something I
really love as well.

Pete


Good plan. Registered Maine Guides represent the last of an important breed
of outdoorsman. I think of us as the Executives of the Wilderness. Or more
like the "Striders of the North Woods". My two most precious pieces of paper
are my Registered Maine Guide's license, and my Grand Canyon River Guides
license. (Unfortunately, both have expired since I've been overseas.
However, Augusta assures me that once you have a license, you only have to
pay to renew it, even after a lot of years. We'll see this year.)

If you really intend to make a part-time income out of it, you'll need to
distinguish yourself. Get to know a certian stretch of woods, river, animal
or whatever; write a few articles for the BDN or the Boston
Globe...something that will make the sports seek you out. Otherwise, you'll
end up one of those old timers with the red sign in front gathering
spiderwebs.

Just think, in 19 more years, you get your 20 Year Patch. :-)

--riverman

Peter H wrote

Given your description, I would have neoprene booties & oversize
sneakers/hiking shoes. The booties will give insulation & retain body
heat even if you have to step overboard now'n'again for rocks, landings,
etc. The shoes will give support & traction but don't count on them for
warmth.

Pete's suggestion above is a sensible and economical solution. You can
pick up a pair of neoprene "socks" at Walmart for @ $10. Add to that a
pair of el-cheapo velcro-closure tennis shoes sized 1 or 1 1/2 sizes
larger than you usually wear (also Walmart, also $10) and you'll have
a pair of insulated watershoes that offer decent traction and support
for $20.