Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.

Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......


I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an
appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified
mechanic winterize the engine.

Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:07:53 -0500, Boater wrote:

Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.

Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......


I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an
appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified
mechanic winterize the engine.

I'm sure you would. But we're not alike.

Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.

Good. I hope they did a good job.

--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

On Dec 19, 12:07*pm, Boater wrote:
Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.

Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an
appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified
mechanic winterize the engine.

Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yep, if it wasn't for google and your dealer, you wouldn't know
anything. They probably laugh..." Here comes that fat guy, probably
doesn't know how to get the sparkplug wire off."

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.

Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?

If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.

Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

John,
The first year had my new engine, I paid the dealer to winterize it. I
watched them and made notes. It is very easy, but you still want to
do it yourself, Dave Brown has an easy to understand web page.
http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:15:55 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote:

John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

John,
The first year had my new engine, I paid the dealer to winterize it. I
watched them and made notes. It is very easy, but you still want to
do it yourself, Dave Brown has an easy to understand web page.
http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html


I've done everything Dave mentions in his guide, except the fogging part.
That is where I need some help. Dave's guide is good, but not specific
enough for my engine.

Today I'll try the muffs again.

Taking it to a dealer is an option. But, I'd rather learn to do it myself.
Besides, the dealer is closed until after New Years day.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you
can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the
water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent
premature stalling from the fogging operation.

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:23:36 -0500, Jim wrote:

John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you
can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the
water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent
premature stalling from the fogging operation.

Thanks Jim. I may try jacking the rpm up a bit. There is good pressure
coming out of each muff.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

On Dec 19, 12:23*pm, Jim wrote:
John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides..
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does*
come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose
adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again
today.

To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the
fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it.
--
We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!"

John

If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you
can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the
water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent
premature stalling from the fogging operation.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yep, that's true!

wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote:

...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm?

Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good
supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no
water from the pilot hole, I shut it down.

I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing
attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said,
remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray
into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different
from what the book says.
Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole
of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears
to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box.

Help?
If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump
impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as
it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in
seconds by runniing without water.

Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.
Not all muffs do that.

With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from
the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.
Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle,
through the flushing port.

Suzuki and Yamaha are two different companies. There is no reason to
think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear
that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment.
My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing
the water pump.

I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect
perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was
getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic
plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you
have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to
essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what
it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without
seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.

Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use
muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas.


If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it
needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem.

A dry water pump self destructs in seconds......

Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to
be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has
been damaged and will fail without further warning.



Hey! It's only about $11,000 to replace the engine. What the hell.