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#1
posted to rec.boats
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Salmonbait wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. |
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#2
posted to rec.boats
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait |
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#3
posted to rec.boats
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Boater wrote:
Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. Here really should have purchased a Parker from Tri-State, now that is a real boat. |
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#4
posted to rec.boats
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On Dec 21, 8:17*am, Boater wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. *The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. *Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. |
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#5
posted to rec.boats
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 07:59:36 -0500, Salmonbait
wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. If you aren't getting any water out of the pee hole with waterUNDER PRESSURE from the muffs, there is no need to try a garbage can. You already have the answer. |
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#6
posted to rec.boats
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#7
posted to rec.boats
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"Salmonbait" wrote in message ... I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Be sure that the water level in the bucket is at least 1" above the split where the gearcase is bolted to the exhaust section. Bill Grannis service manager |
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#8
posted to rec.boats
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 18:00:36 -0500, "Billgran" wrote:
"Salmonbait" wrote in message .. . I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Be sure that the water level in the bucket is at least 1" above the split where the gearcase is bolted to the exhaust section. Bill Grannis service manager It came almost to the bottom of the anti-cavitation plate, above the cooling water inlets. If I were on the muffs, it would only come as high as the inlet. I don't understand why an increase over that is necessary. -- Salmonbait |
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#9
posted to rec.boats
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Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 17:53:46 -0500, "Billgran" wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager Curiosity..... why the dual hose stuff? When I had Yamahas (admittedly, old tech) the intake was just an open galley... if there was enough supply volume to prevent cavitation... it seemed no foul. I have to believe that flushing scheme worked, since they served me for 18 years and went North of the border to a new owner to do a second tour of duty...... You would think so but it just doesn't work as well. My smaller outboards and I/O had no trouble with the single sided muff. |
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#10
posted to rec.boats
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On Dec 19, 11:21*am, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - In a minute, there is probably enough residual water in the pump so that it would be fine. I've started my Evinrude many, many times without any water running to it. just wanted to test the battery, make sure it fired, then off. After probably a hundred times of doing this, plus running for many hours fishing, etc. I changed impellers. It was very hard to tell the 3 year old one from the new. |
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