Well, these ( http://tinyurl.com/692pp ) are the ones I got.

They'll be going on either side of the walkway to the open bow (at cruise
the two rears can't be heard at all, really.) I can climb under the dash on
either side with enough room to work, and water (though moisture might)
doesn't usually find it's way into that area..

-j

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:03:14 -0500, "Jay" wrote:

So I finally found a set of speakers that seemed like a good enough deal
and
they came in last week. I'm wondering if anyone has any input/experience
installing speakers. They aren't flush mount which needs I'll need to be
cutting a few holes... some of my curiosity lies in wondering if there's
any
certain saw blades one should use for cutting fiberglass.... I was going
to
just drill a few holes to start a hand jig saw... maybe tape up the area
with duck tape to avoid scratching.. other than that I didn't really know
if
there was anything one should take precaution with.

Also, though they weigh a couple pounds each, should I worry much about
providing some of support to the backing... like a brace to dissipate
weight
on the fiberglass walls?

TIA

-j


Where on the boat are you installing them? Most speakers I've seen are
inappropriate for use in the cockpit, if that is what you are planning.
Unless
they have a sturdy and solid enclosure, they are strictly for inside the
cabin,
or maybe up high in a flying bridge. Speakers without enclosures in the
cockpit,
instantly become large holes for water to enter if the boat gets pooped.

BB

"Jay" wrote in message
...
Well, these ( http://tinyurl.com/692pp ) are the ones I got.

They'll be going on either side of the walkway to the open bow (at cruise
the two rears can't be heard at all, really.) I can climb under the dash
on either side with enough room to work, and water (though moisture might)
doesn't usually find it's way into that area..

-j

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:03:14 -0500, "Jay" wrote:

So I finally found a set of speakers that seemed like a good enough deal
and
they came in last week. I'm wondering if anyone has any input/experience
installing speakers. They aren't flush mount which needs I'll need to be
cutting a few holes... some of my curiosity lies in wondering if there's
any
certain saw blades one should use for cutting fiberglass.... I was going
to
just drill a few holes to start a hand jig saw... maybe tape up the area
with duck tape to avoid scratching.. other than that I didn't really know
if
there was anything one should take precaution with.

Also, though they weigh a couple pounds each, should I worry much about
providing some of support to the backing... like a brace to dissipate
weight
on the fiberglass walls?

TIA

-j


Where on the boat are you installing them? Most speakers I've seen are
inappropriate for use in the cockpit, if that is what you are planning.
Unless
they have a sturdy and solid enclosure, they are strictly for inside the
cabin,
or maybe up high in a flying bridge. Speakers without enclosures in the
cockpit,
instantly become large holes for water to enter if the boat gets pooped.

BB





The link tells us nothing about the speakers other than that they *are*
flush mount.

No backing plate needed.

If they are exposed to the sun and sea spray I hope they are capable of
withstanding the long term effects...rubber surrounds and neoprene cones.

If not be prepared to be replacing them every year or two.

Sometimes cheap is not always the best deal.

Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back braces,
and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming over
wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...

"Features: * Rubber surround * Magnetically Shielded * Weather-resistant
woofer * UV impregnated ABS heat-resistant weatherproof grilles * One-piece
formed ABS basket* Recommended amplifier power 10-60 watts RMS, 150 watts
Peak * Requires 3.45" of mounting depth and 5.63" cutout diameter * * Dual
Cone: Mylar * Cone: Polypropylene * Basket: Durable and light weight ABS
plastic"


"JimH" wrote in message
...

"Jay" wrote in message
...
Well, these ( http://tinyurl.com/692pp ) are the ones I got.

They'll be going on either side of the walkway to the open bow (at cruise
the two rears can't be heard at all, really.) I can climb under the dash
on either side with enough room to work, and water (though moisture
might) doesn't usually find it's way into that area..

-j

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:03:14 -0500, "Jay" wrote:

So I finally found a set of speakers that seemed like a good enough deal
and
they came in last week. I'm wondering if anyone has any
input/experience
installing speakers. They aren't flush mount which needs I'll need to
be
cutting a few holes... some of my curiosity lies in wondering if there's
any
certain saw blades one should use for cutting fiberglass.... I was going
to
just drill a few holes to start a hand jig saw... maybe tape up the area
with duck tape to avoid scratching.. other than that I didn't really
know if
there was anything one should take precaution with.

Also, though they weigh a couple pounds each, should I worry much about
providing some of support to the backing... like a brace to dissipate
weight
on the fiberglass walls?

TIA

-j


Where on the boat are you installing them? Most speakers I've seen are
inappropriate for use in the cockpit, if that is what you are planning.
Unless
they have a sturdy and solid enclosure, they are strictly for inside the
cabin,
or maybe up high in a flying bridge. Speakers without enclosures in the
cockpit,
instantly become large holes for water to enter if the boat gets pooped.

BB





The link tells us nothing about the speakers other than that they *are*
flush mount.

No backing plate needed.

If they are exposed to the sun and sea spray I hope they are capable of
withstanding the long term effects...rubber surrounds and neoprene cones.

If not be prepared to be replacing them every year or two.

Sometimes cheap is not always the best deal.

As long as you are happy with them they sound fine for a marine
environerment.

Just mount them per the manufacturers instructions. No backing plate should
be needed. If you want additional insurance use extra large washers.


"Jay" wrote in message
...
Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back braces,
and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...

"Features: * Rubber surround * Magnetically Shielded * Weather-resistant
woofer * UV impregnated ABS heat-resistant weatherproof grilles *
One-piece formed ABS basket* Recommended amplifier power 10-60 watts RMS,
150 watts Peak * Requires 3.45" of mounting depth and 5.63" cutout
diameter * * Dual Cone: Mylar * Cone: Polypropylene * Basket: Durable and
light weight ABS plastic"


"JimH" wrote in message
...

"Jay" wrote in message
...
Well, these ( http://tinyurl.com/692pp ) are the ones I got.

They'll be going on either side of the walkway to the open bow (at
cruise the two rears can't be heard at all, really.) I can climb under
the dash on either side with enough room to work, and water (though
moisture might) doesn't usually find it's way into that area..

-j

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:03:14 -0500, "Jay" wrote:

So I finally found a set of speakers that seemed like a good enough
deal and
they came in last week. I'm wondering if anyone has any
input/experience
installing speakers. They aren't flush mount which needs I'll need to
be
cutting a few holes... some of my curiosity lies in wondering if
there's any
certain saw blades one should use for cutting fiberglass.... I was
going to
just drill a few holes to start a hand jig saw... maybe tape up the
area
with duck tape to avoid scratching.. other than that I didn't really
know if
there was anything one should take precaution with.

Also, though they weigh a couple pounds each, should I worry much about
providing some of support to the backing... like a brace to dissipate
weight
on the fiberglass walls?

TIA

-j


Where on the boat are you installing them? Most speakers I've seen are
inappropriate for use in the cockpit, if that is what you are planning.
Unless
they have a sturdy and solid enclosure, they are strictly for inside
the cabin,
or maybe up high in a flying bridge. Speakers without enclosures in the
cockpit,
instantly become large holes for water to enter if the boat gets
pooped.

BB





The link tells us nothing about the speakers other than that they *are*
flush mount.

No backing plate needed.

If they are exposed to the sun and sea spray I hope they are capable of
withstanding the long term effects...rubber surrounds and neoprene cones.

If not be prepared to be replacing them every year or two.

Sometimes cheap is not always the best deal.

"Jay" wrote in message
...
Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back braces,
and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...

Get yourself a piece of 3/4" birch ply. Cut a square for each speaker, about
2" bigger than the speaker. Cut your holes in the fiberglass. Make them
perfect. Put the birch ply behind the holes you've made, trace the holes
onto the plywood, and cut holes in that, too. Actually, do that ***BEFORE***
you've cut it into squares. The big piece of ply will be easier to clamp to
a work surface than the smaller squares. Mount the speakers with the wooden
squares as bracing from behind.

One thing you didn't mention: What will be the enclosure BEHIND the
speakers? For any speaker, there's a very small range of correct enclosure
size. Get far from that range and the speaker becomes all but useless in
terms of bass response. Trying to get decent bass by dicking around with
tone controls will just overdrive your radio or amplifier, and blow up your
speakers in short order. Hint: In even the quietest cars, you need about 75
***CLEAN*** watts per channel to overcome road noise. If you intend to run
this stereo in a boat while the engine's running, you need about twice that
much power. Otherwise, you'd better be a big fan of distortion and blown
speakers.

The birch idea sounds good..
Can't say I gave enclosures much though.. sounds like I need to though. .. .

-j


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
"Jay" wrote in message
...
Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back braces,
and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...

Get yourself a piece of 3/4" birch ply. Cut a square for each speaker,
about 2" bigger than the speaker. Cut your holes in the fiberglass. Make
them perfect. Put the birch ply behind the holes you've made, trace the
holes onto the plywood, and cut holes in that, too. Actually, do that
***BEFORE*** you've cut it into squares. The big piece of ply will be
easier to clamp to a work surface than the smaller squares. Mount the
speakers with the wooden squares as bracing from behind.

One thing you didn't mention: What will be the enclosure BEHIND the
speakers? For any speaker, there's a very small range of correct enclosure
size. Get far from that range and the speaker becomes all but useless in
terms of bass response. Trying to get decent bass by dicking around with
tone controls will just overdrive your radio or amplifier, and blow up
your speakers in short order. Hint: In even the quietest cars, you need
about 75 ***CLEAN*** watts per channel to overcome road noise. If you
intend to run this stereo in a boat while the engine's running, you need
about twice that much power. Otherwise, you'd better be a big fan of
distortion and blown speakers.

Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface of
the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the speaker.
Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself out
as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound from
the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of the
enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up most
of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting in
little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed and
big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but that
isn't simple physics any more...
--
Ken Heaton
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca


"Jay" wrote in message
...
The birch idea sounds good..
Can't say I gave enclosures much though.. sounds like I need to though. ..
..

-j


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
"Jay" wrote in message
...
Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back
braces,
and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...

Get yourself a piece of 3/4" birch ply. Cut a square for each speaker,
about 2" bigger than the speaker. Cut your holes in the fiberglass. Make
them perfect. Put the birch ply behind the holes you've made, trace the
holes onto the plywood, and cut holes in that, too. Actually, do that
***BEFORE*** you've cut it into squares. The big piece of ply will be
easier to clamp to a work surface than the smaller squares. Mount the
speakers with the wooden squares as bracing from behind.

One thing you didn't mention: What will be the enclosure BEHIND the
speakers? For any speaker, there's a very small range of correct
enclosure
size. Get far from that range and the speaker becomes all but useless in
terms of bass response. Trying to get decent bass by dicking around with
tone controls will just overdrive your radio or amplifier, and blow up
your speakers in short order. Hint: In even the quietest cars, you need
about 75 ***CLEAN*** watts per channel to overcome road noise. If you
intend to run this stereo in a boat while the engine's running, you need
about twice that much power. Otherwise, you'd better be a big fan of
distortion and blown speakers.