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  #31   Report Post  
Alan Gomes
 
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Default Advice about '68 Newport 30'?

I seriously doubt that the early Newport 30's (or any of them) had cored
hulls, above the waterline or otherwise.

--Alan Gomes

"Rufus Laggren" wrote in message
news:MOx3c.224694$uV3.946176@attbi_s51...
Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3
years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with
a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're
still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if
you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it
doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If
you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like
Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks
like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So
it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you.

Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks
(from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived
on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early
boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This
makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some
potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a
period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like
putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good.

But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my
standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side
detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working
on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and
yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too.
Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk
with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat
before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost
too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount,
easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat
survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance
surveys" usually aren't worth much.

The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You
try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge
that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it
_may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and
get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such
a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the
whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the
cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can
find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your
boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and
electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy
racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never
work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished
pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife
sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to
replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no
matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_
survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't,
costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to
about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much
power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a
_longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine
boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling
price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an
outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it -
get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room"
down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the
companion step where the engine was not.

You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick
up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your
hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family.
You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at
select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good
input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know
why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning...

Welcom back to boats. g

Best luck. Rufus



  #32   Report Post  
 
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This guy doesn't know sheet about boats. Newports are awesome boats.
I own a 68 N30. It is rock solid. Catalina is a SheetBox. the keel
is bolted on. no backing plates, under rigged, on and on . heres a
guy who took his newport to hawaii and won overall on handicap!

http://www.pacificcup.org/98/entries/Wate.html. I've owned a cal 27,
catalina 27 and a newport 30 so far and I would take the newport
anywhere I'd take the other ones.

Oh, by the way, this cork smoker recommends Ranger as a boat. Gary
Mull designed Ranger AND Newport boats

http://www.google.COM/search?hl=en&i...l+newport+sail

http://www.rocketboats.com/about/garymull.html

Talk to anyone whos owned a newport 30, and you will hear the
accolades.

It may not be an S&S, but for the price, you can NOT beat it - and
their fast as hell. Stay away from the bayliner.

  #33   Report Post  
 
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In ten years, It will be worth the same or more than you bought it for
only if you put 5 times that amount into it. Sailing is not an
investment...It's a sickness. -Dick

  #34   Report Post  
Jere Lull
 
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In article . com,
wrote:

This guy doesn't know sheet about boats. Newports are awesome boats.
I own a 68 N30. It is rock solid. Catalina is a SheetBox. the keel
is bolted on. no backing plates, under rigged, on and on . heres a
guy who took his newport to hawaii and won overall on handicap!

http://www.pacificcup.org/98/entries/Wate.html. I've owned a cal 27,
catalina 27 and a newport 30 so far and I would take the newport
anywhere I'd take the other ones.

Oh, by the way, this cork smoker recommends Ranger as a boat. Gary
Mull designed Ranger AND Newport boats

http://www.google.COM/search?hl=en&i...l+newport+sail

http://www.rocketboats.com/about/garymull.html

Talk to anyone whos owned a newport 30, and you will hear the
accolades.

It may not be an S&S, but for the price, you can NOT beat it - and
their fast as hell. Stay away from the bayliner.


I don't know the particular boat model, but our boat name was stolen
from our second choice, a Newport 27 flush deck (Mk II?). Sweet looking
boat, but what I've heard since (10-12 years) convinced me that we'd
made the right decision. Not quite bullet proof. Quite fast, but
relatively lightly built. As I recall, the hull-deck joint of that model
is a weak point.

We also have a bolt-on keel, with a schedule of bolts about 50% stronger
than naval architects' current recommendations. [A Cal or Cat 27's bolts
are anemic compared to ours.] After 30+ years worth of banging about the
Chesapeake (real obviously from our purchase survey, not to mention my
decade's miscalculations), we're still not getting a leak from the keel
bolts despite a few obvious dings in the cast iron keel. I'm afraid to
disturb them to check their health.

Every boat is a compromise. And most everyone has a loyalty to "their
boat", because she performed to their needs more than adequately.

I wouldn't personally depend on a Hunter, but a whole lot of people
swear by them because they did the expected job quite well.

Truth be told, we still love our old MacGregor 21's capabilities and I
don't know a more lightly built boat. Yeah, we had to replace too much
when a "real" sailboat sideswiped her at her mooring, but the repairs
were cheap and she still did what we wanted afterwards.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/
  #36   Report Post  
rhys
 
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On 26 Jan 2005 16:03:32 -0800, "Frank" wrote:


I believe I said that the Newport line are nice-sailing boats, whether
designed by C&C or Gary Mull, who happens to be one of my favorite
designers. That's exactly why I recommended the Ranger to the OP,
because it's a Mull design but with much (MUCH!) better construction
quality than Newport. If you disagree with me about Newport
construction, well, then, I leave the final decision up to each reader.


I just finished crewing five years on a C&C built 1980s Newport 27.
Picture a C&C 27, only one full ton lighter. A good club racer, but
even a small square Lake Ontario wave would kill her speed. In five
years, we scored two season first, a second and two thirds in our PHRF
class, in which there was a C&C 27 Mk II, an S2, a Catalina 30, a
couple of VIking 28s and some non-contenders. The Newport had the
highest PHRF rating, so if we won, it was on corrected time. The
Newport did, however, keep going in very light air, and that gave us
line honours more than once in the dog days of summer.

As to their construction: too damn light. Carrying the usual full
hoist too long would set us on our beam ends, making a lot of lee. The
skipper visibly fought the helm, but he was all about the manliness of
it all, so whatever. Basically, the boat was killed by waves, but was
a speedster in 12 knots. You could even surf downwind in 22 knots or
better...you remember doing 10 knots in a 27 foot monohull keelboat.

The cored deck was a problem the skipper solved by cutting a large
rectangle out of the foredeck and replacing, reglassing and painting
the patch. Looked gruesome, but got rid of the spongy feeling.

Last comment: This boat really responds to a proper tuning job and is
twitchy enough to benefit from a careful, attentive jib trimmer.
Belowdecks, it's cheap and tight: only a midget can use the head
without grunting.

A good coasting boat/weekender, if you can deal with the cored deck
issue. Can take a beating, but won't sail efficiently to wind due to
cork-like buoyancy.

R.
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