On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:57:47 -0500, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Don White" wrote
Aluminum ivets shouldn't be hard to find...

They're readily available, (and less costly) but stainless rivets are more
commonly used by manufacturers, from what I've seen. My guess is that their
greater strength outweighs the other considerations.


Since the corrosion takes place primarily the aluminum side of the
joint using aluminum rivets will result in rapid loss of the rivets.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 08:11:52 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast?

Well, you could weld it. With iddy biddy explosive charges.

Casady

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

On 2007-12-24 20:11:52 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:

On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 05:33:29 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Skip Gundlach wrote in news:518214e6-13f1-479c-
:

We will use that track to install a storm trysail track on the mast.
The same stainless rivets we bought for our railings will work on that,
as well.

I hope that you're not planning on using stainless rivets on an
aluminum mast/boom! You're looking at serious corrosion problems if
you do that.

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast?

?? Every bit of track on our boat is aluminum. Given an aluminum spar
and aluminum track, I'd tend toward aluminum rivets, perhaps more of
them, but as closely spaced as most track holes are, the built-in
overkill seems sufficient.

Meanwhile, stainless fasteners in aluminum isn't significantly
different than through-bolting aluminum with stainless bolts. Ours
haven't seemed to suffer ill effects after 35 years.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:57:47 -0500, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Don White" wrote
Aluminum ivets shouldn't be hard to find...
They're readily available, (and less costly) but stainless rivets are more
commonly used by manufacturers, from what I've seen. My guess is that their
greater strength outweighs the other considerations.


Since the corrosion takes place primarily the aluminum side of the
joint using aluminum rivets will result in rapid loss of the rivets.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

I recently removed the upper shroud attachment SS plates from a 30 yr
old aluminum mast. The rivets were aluminum. The aluminum mast portion
under the SS plates was badly corroded away but the rivet heads were
still in good shape! There was a large stainless bolt going all the way
through both attachments and the mast and this is what was holding
everything together.
Gordon

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)


I used the 3M 4200. (just in cast dis-assembly required)

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:46:39 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:25:31 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Dec 2007 10:07:21 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 24, 3:11 pm, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
... Given that all the sail track I have seen is stainless how do you
suggest it be installed on the aluminum mast? ...

FWIW, you can get aluminum sail track. I've got miles (or so it
seems) of black anodized AL Harken track on my boat. IMO, _the_
"right" way to attach anything to an AL mast is to drill and tap the
mast for ss fasteners and then isolate _all_ of the parts with Durlac
(or similar). BTW, I'd be very grateful if anyone could point me to
a source for Durlac here in the States. It seems silly to ship a tube
up for New Zealand.

Merry Christmas!

-- Tom.

It isn't the same stuff but I have used 3M 5200 to insulate
aluminum-stainless joints with success on masts and spars.


Aaaaaaaak! Never use 5200 on anything that you may later want to take
apart.

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.

My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 00:59:01 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2007-12-26 17:37:50 -0500, Bruce in Bangkok said:

You know? I've been reading this on this news group for years and for
all that time, and longer, I've been using 3M 5200 to bed things on
boats and never once have I had any problems in removing the item when
I wanted to.

I agree it is a pretty good adhesive but certainly not impossible, or
even very difficult. to remove items attached with it.

My experience has been that with good surface prep, 5200 is essentially
"forever" (or at least greater than a decade). Extremely tough to
cut, stayed flexible and bonded to the surface better than the gelcoat
to the substrate.


It is a good "glue" but easy enough to remove. Take a couple of putty
knives and sharpen the edge like a knife. you can drive these between
the two parts to sheer the 5200 (it never gets hard) and work around
the whatever you are taking off. then just pull it off. It sounds kind
of difficult when described but is actually pretty easy once you get
the hang of it. The nice thing about 5200 is, as you say, it makes a
joint that lasts forever.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)