Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long


I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.
And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith


Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith


Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.


Even 20:1 for some things and the first layer goes to the edges of the
bevel and progressive layers are smaller... However, there is a host
of potential problems that needs to be considered in any specific
repair.

-- Tom.

On Jul 17, 3:19 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Bruce" wrote in message

...



On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith

Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.

Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.



7 to 1 is the recommendation from West. If both sides beveled to meet
nothing in the middle, only half as wide overall.

In polyester.

I did a thru hull as per, worked fine, was invisible under paint.

Terry K

"Bruce" wrote
Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.

I'd call that a scarf joint. No butts about it...

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 15:42:08 -0400, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote
Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.

I'd call that a scarf joint. No butts about it...


well, technically a scarf is a single slope ( ----/ /----- ) where the
joints I am talking about are (-----\/-----).

Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com