I have a spare engine that is disassembled (MD11C) that is ten years
younger than my current MD2B volvo. My current engine is limping along
and I want to reassemble and install the MD11C.
Mechanics estimates to do the work are exceedingly high and with about
$2500 more, I could have a new Yanmar.
Do you have any suggestions on how I could get this engine together and
installed cheaply? I'm willing to do the scutwork but don't have a place or
tools currently. By the way, mounts are practically the same.

On 29 Aug 2003 23:25:38 GMT,
MLapla4120 wrote:
I have a spare engine that is disassembled (MD11C) that is ten years
younger than my current MD2B volvo. My current engine is limping
along and I want to reassemble and install the MD11C. Mechanics
estimates to do the work are exceedingly high and with about $2500
more, I could have a new Yanmar. Do you have any suggestions on how I
could get this engine together and installed cheaply? I'm willing to
do the scutwork but don't have a place or tools currently. By the
way, mounts are practically the same.



Contact the local community college. They might have classes that can
help you, that you can bring your engine in as a part of the learning
Or they might be able to point you to someplace that will rent you the
space and the tools.


--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock

Linux, because eventually, you grow up enough to be trusted with a fork()

I'd recommend doing it yourself.

Now-a-days, that is about the only practical way to overhaul an old model
engine.

The more you learn about your engine the more you will be in tune with it's
perforance (or lack).

Parts will be your biggest expense, since Volvo parts have always been very
very expensive. There are a couple 3rd party sources for major parts.
http://www.adiesel.com/volvopenta.php

Your biggest expense will be the cylinder sleeves.. If they are worn beyond
the limits, they should be replaced rather than going oversize. (my opinion
FWIW) That way you can usually still use your old pistons and standard size
rings. If you were able to bore the cylinders, you would have to purchase
oversize pistons and rings.
(come to think of it, I'm not sure that the MD11C has removable sleeve
assembles, like the MD2B.)

Additionally, replacing the sleeves removes one of the three parts that are
subject to sal****er corrosion (cylinder, head and manifold).

When you rebuild the heads (have a shop do the valves for you) have them dip
tanked or sandblasted and magnaflux inspected for cracks or (near) rust
through.. I've never known of a Volvo MD head to rust through but cracks are
possible around the valve seats.

Watch for a good price on an exhaust manifold since they are usually the
first to rust out at about 20 years in SW service. Since the manifold is
easy to change later, I wouldn't bother replacing it now unless it shows
diffinate signs of rust thru. Don't be alarmed if the 'freeze' plugs are
corroded since these can be pryed out and replaced.

Almost everything tool your going to need are basic combination wrenches and
sockets (metric), about the only additional tool you might need is a torque
wench. This you may borrow from a friend or rent one at the time you get
into assembling the rod bearings and head/manifold bolts.

The flywheel will be the most difficult and you will need a large socket for
the nut and a large puller (again, rent) to pop it off the shaft.

If you thing the transmition needs work, you may want to send it out. The MS
type is more complex and requires special tools for assembly, while the RB
could be done by a owner without special tools.

So, get out your Volvo Workshop Manual and read through it, I think you will
be encouraged. Not a big deal.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

MLapla4120 wrote:

I have a spare engine that is disassembled (MD11C) that is ten years
younger than my current MD2B volvo. My current engine is limping along
and I want to reassemble and install the MD11C.

I would check back a year or two in a Google search on those two
engines. There was a thread about one Volvo that was a somewhat higher
power version of the old reliable original. It wasn't nearly as
bulletproof. Depending on your needs, rebuilding the MD2B might be a
better solution in the long run.

Mechanics estimates to do the work are exceedingly high and with about
$2500 more, I could have a new Yanmar.

I doubt that figure greatly. Almost everything will have to be changed
out unless you're lucky. Our Yanmar replaced a gas Volvo, but I believe
the MD2B was an option at the time and dropped in. Installation, a new
bed, shaft, prop and so forth for our Yanmar was about $6k, and I
wouldn't have been comfortable about doing much of the vital work myself.

Do you have any suggestions on how I could get this engine together and
installed cheaply? I'm willing to do the scutwork but don't have a place or
tools currently. By the way, mounts are practically the same.

I'd do the work. Not only will that improve your tool kit (most of which
should be on the boat, anyway, along with the engine manual), but you'll
know how it all fits together. In a pinch, your "place" could be the
main cabin.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/