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#1
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I'd be interested in views as to whether a macerator pump should be
installed higher than the holding tank. Background: On my boat, the macerator (Jabsco) is installed on top of the waste tank (about 2 feet high). Although it's supposedly "self-priming", it only functioned if the tank was completely full, and then it would only take out a gallon or two. Ultimately, the impeller self-destructed. Armed with a new impeller, I am now considering installing it at the same level as the base of the holding tank. I'd think it would then be more likely to prime, and actually pump. The only down-side I see is that it would be constantly "loaded" with waste (unlike now, where the residual waste presumably drains back down the hose to the tank level). But if the pump seals are good, I figure that's not a problem? Am I missing anything? I'd appreciate any views. |
#3
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jeannette wrote:
Possibly a check valve in front of the macerator so it isn't constantly loaded. Mine has one. Close the valve then turn the macerator off. Not a check valve...a y-valve (aka diverter valve) that allows you to choose between pumping out or going to the macerator. However, whether the boat should even HAVE a macerator or any other pump to dump the tank depends on whether the boat is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea...'cuz it's illegal to dump a tank in ANY US waters....only when at least 3 miles out to sea. And that doesn't mean 3 miles from shore in a lake, river, bay or sound...it means 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole North American coastline. So unless he has immediate access to open sea, he might as well just remove the macerator altogether...'cuz the fines for dumping a tank illegally are very steep. |
#4
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On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 21:16:43 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote: jeannette wrote: Possibly a check valve in front of the macerator so it isn't constantly loaded. Mine has one. Close the valve then turn the macerator off. Not a check valve...a y-valve (aka diverter valve) that allows you to choose between pumping out or going to the macerator. No I did mean a check valve in front of the macerator. The Y valve is just after the toilet. It diverts to either the tank or overboard. The checl valve is between the tank and the macerator pump. I open it before turning the pump on and turn it off when done. I used it twice so far in 2 years when I got out of the San Francisco Bay, past the 3 miles limit. I do have a question for you Peggie. I am looking for a Tank Level Monitor. I saw some time ago a system that worked with sensors on the outside of the tank. My tank is fiberglass. Do you (or anyone) know where I can find that? Jeannette However, whether the boat should even HAVE a macerator or any other pump to dump the tank depends on whether the boat is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea...'cuz it's illegal to dump a tank in ANY US waters....only when at least 3 miles out to sea. And that doesn't mean 3 miles from shore in a lake, river, bay or sound...it means 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole North American coastline. So unless he has immediate access to open sea, he might as well just remove the macerator altogether...'cuz the fines for dumping a tank illegally are very steep. Jeannette Bristol 32, San Francisco http://www.eblw.com/contepartiro/contepartiro.html |
#5
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Peggie Hall wrote:
However, whether the boat should even HAVE a macerator or any other pump to dump the tank depends on whether the boat is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea...'cuz it's illegal to dump a tank in ANY US waters....only when at least 3 miles out to sea. ... Hi Peggy, pleased to meet you. Our new old boat has a CG approved electronic system for treating sewage that I was told allowed us to dump inside the 3-mile limit (Cheasapeake Bay) but I'm more than a little dubious about dumping anywhere there isn't out-to-sea current (like in my slip). We're still refitting so haven't used the head at all but plan to live aboard soon. I'd like to add a tank to store sewage til we could either pump it out at a dockside station or dump in deep water via the purifier, but dunno how to get (pump?) the sewage from the tank into the purifier. The pump on the head does that now. Suggestions? TIA Howard |
#6
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See Figure #1A of this document:
http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...4phiiv0102.pdf In the diagram add an extra Y-valve between the pumpout line and the Lectra-San input. Joe Wood Vito wrote: Peggie Hall wrote: However, whether the boat should even HAVE a macerator or any other pump to dump the tank depends on whether the boat is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea...'cuz it's illegal to dump a tank in ANY US waters....only when at least 3 miles out to sea. ... Hi Peggy, pleased to meet you. Our new old boat has a CG approved electronic system for treating sewage that I was told allowed us to dump inside the 3-mile limit (Cheasapeake Bay) but I'm more than a little dubious about dumping anywhere there isn't out-to-sea current (like in my slip). We're still refitting so haven't used the head at all but plan to live aboard soon. I'd like to add a tank to store sewage til we could either pump it out at a dockside station or dump in deep water via the purifier, but dunno how to get (pump?) the sewage from the tank into the purifier. The pump on the head does that now. Suggestions? TIA Howard |
#7
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Joe Wood wrote:
See Figure #1A of this document: http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...4phiiv0102.pdf In the diagram add an extra Y-valve between the pumpout line and the Lectra-San input. It won't work, Joe...there's no way to dump a tank through the Lectra/San 'cuz it can only handle a maximum input of 1 gallon at a time, and each treatment cycle is 2.5 minutes long. Theoretically, it's POSSIBLE...it's just totally impractical. First, you'd have to have a means of limiting the flow from the tank to 1 gallon at a time. Then, release a gallon...run the Lectra/San (2.5 minute treatment cycle time)...release another gallon...run the Lectra/San (another 2.5 minutes). The unit isn't designed to run continuously, so after treating the 3rd gallon, wait 10-15 minutes for the motors to cool before releasing another gallon. It would take at least two hours just to dump a 10 gallon tank...20 gallons would take half a day! So it makes no sense whatever to even consider it. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html Peggie Hall wrote: However, whether the boat should even HAVE a macerator or any other pump to dump the tank depends on whether the boat is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea...'cuz it's illegal to dump a tank in ANY US waters....only when at least 3 miles out to sea. ... Hi Peggy, pleased to meet you. Our new old boat has a CG approved electronic system for treating sewage that I was told allowed us to dump inside the 3-mile limit (Cheasapeake Bay) but I'm more than a little dubious about dumping anywhere there isn't out-to-sea current (like in my slip). We're still refitting so haven't used the head at all but plan to live aboard soon. I'd like to add a tank to store sewage til we could either pump it out at a dockside station or dump in deep water via the purifier, but dunno how to get (pump?) the sewage from the tank into the purifier. The pump on the head does that now. Suggestions? TIA Howard |
#8
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Hi Peggy, pleased to meet you.
HI Vito...same here. ![]() Our new old boat has a CG approved electronic system for treating sewage that I was told allowed us to dump inside the 3-mile limit (Cheasapeake Bay) but I'm more than a little dubious about dumping anywhere there isn't out-to-sea current (like in my slip). The system you have is a Lectra/San, you needn't have any qualms about discharging it in the slip or anywhere else...'cuz the discharge is actually cleaner than the water in any marina. It's important that you know how it works, and how to operate and maintain it properly, though. If you didn't get the owners manual with it, you'll find all the specs and even the owners manual for it on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com We're still refitting so haven't used the head at all but plan to live aboard soon. I'd like to add a tank to store sewage til we could either pump it out at a dockside station or dump in deep water via the purifier, but dunno how to get (pump?) the sewage from the tank into the purifier. The pump on the head does that now. Suggestions? That plan won't work. The Lectra/San can only handle a maximum input of 1 gallon per treatment cycle...so there's no way to dump a tank through it. I agree that you do need at least a small (10-15 gallon) tank in addition to the Lectra/San, but only for use if/when you visit a "no discharge" harbor. There are only two of those on the entire Bay, btw, and both are very small--Herring Bay and the Northern Coastal Bays (see the MD DNR info at http://www.dnr.state.md.us/boating/pumpout/ndz.pdf) The only way to empty the tank if you ever have to use it is via pumpout. 'Cuz even if the waste going into the tank has been through the treatment device first, once it goes into the tank it's no longer treated waste. Reason: the Lectra/San does reduce the bacteria count to 5/100 mililiter--and often to -0-...but only one of the little buggers has to survive and multiply inside the tank to send the bacteria count soaring way above legal limits again...and that happens very quickly in hot weather. So what you need to do is install a y-valve in the head discharge line that allows you to choose between going into the tank or overboard. The tank needs only a direct line to a deck pumpout fitting. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
#9
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It'll only be a problem if you ever have to remove the pump while the tank
is full. Yuk. I installed a Sealand T-series diaphragm pump that is self priming and can run dry forever without damage. All my holding tank fittings enter through the top of the tank. I also have separate discharge fittings... one to the pump and one to the deck fitting. That way I don't have a Y valve to mess with or leak. -- Keith __ A pessimist's blood type is always b-negative. "WF" wrote in message om... I'd be interested in views as to whether a macerator pump should be installed higher than the holding tank. Background: On my boat, the macerator (Jabsco) is installed on top of the waste tank (about 2 feet high). Although it's supposedly "self-priming", it only functioned if the tank was completely full, and then it would only take out a gallon or two. Ultimately, the impeller self-destructed. Armed with a new impeller, I am now considering installing it at the same level as the base of the holding tank. I'd think it would then be more likely to prime, and actually pump. The only down-side I see is that it would be constantly "loaded" with waste (unlike now, where the residual waste presumably drains back down the hose to the tank level). But if the pump seals are good, I figure that's not a problem? Am I missing anything? I'd appreciate any views. |
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