On Tue, 1 Aug 2006 10:23:31 -0700, Mark Borgerson
mborgerson.at.comcast.net wrote:

On our Windrose 18, one person can raise or lower the mast, but
two makes it easier. The upper and lower shrouds stay connected
all the time and have only about a foot of slack when the mast
is in the step fitting and laid back to the stern crutch.
I use a 2-part tackle on the forestay with a pivoting
gin pole at the foot of the mast to get a lifting angle
on the forestay. (The gin pole is vertical at the start
and the forestay clevis pin and stay fit into a notch at
the top at the start. As I pull on the forestay,
the mast pops up the clevis pin comes down to the bow fitting.

We usually try to raise the mast on the trailer and have the
tongue lower. That way, the mast goes a little past
vertical and pulls on the already-connected backstay. That
makes it easy to fasten the forestay.

The second person helps most by standing in the cockpit and
raising the mast the first 4 or 5 feet---where the tension
on the forestay is highest.


But, a fouled bottom is the one problem that is a non-problem.
This early example of a trailerable boat design of 22 ft length - the
SouthCoast 22 still has that grerat advantage - it's light on its feet
to numerous waters.

To a much greater degree than was the case when we bought our
Windrose 15 years ago, the gas to tow the boat to the water
is a bigger issue!


Back to topic: We use a 4HP Evinrude sailmaster on the Windrose.
It has quite a lot of cabin windage also and the problem going
upwind is even worse if you've merely bungied down the genny
on the bow pulpit. When motoring upwind or crosswind, it really
helps to take the time to remove the sail altogether. That
will limit your options if you lose power and have to sail
your way out of trouble, though.

If your engine has sufficient power to make headway to windward,
you can often get past the initial problems by falling off
and gaining speed---with the main up if necessary. When
you've got enough speed for good control, turn up and
get the main down ASAP. Worst case, I suppose you
could tack to windward under tight-sheeted main
and with motor assist. The sailing purists will hate
that though. It does give you more options should
the engine die or get weeded up.

When you're singlehanding or in narrow waters, having
enough engine really helps!

Mark Borgerson


Mark,
Thanks for the opportunity to compare notes - it's true we had the jib
bungeed in a pile in the pulpit. That would not have helped in the
fresh breeze - perhaps 20 kt.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

In article ,
Brian Whatcott wrote:

Thanks for the opportunity to compare notes - it's true we had the jib
bungeed in a pile in the pulpit. That would not have helped in the
fresh breeze - perhaps 20 kt.

That's probably your second mistake.

The one I think was first was trying to motor directly into the wind and
waves. Even with our 20 hp inboard (which can take us past hull speed in
flat water), if we power directly into that sort of slop, we *might* get
3-4 knots under near-max power. If I "tack" off a bit, we come up to our
5-6 knot cruise at lower revs.

We had a Chrysler 4 on a Macgregor 21. Found out (once) that it was fine
in storm/squall conditions, much less a mere 20 knots. BUT it was a bear
to keep that engine running.

If yours is working fine for your purposes otherwise, I'd keep it to
keep the weight down, but we switched ours out after it let us down at
some very strange times for no discernible reason. Luckily, it never
died when we could have been in trouble, but I never could trust it
completely.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/