Hi Frank,

I've applied Imron successfully with my spray rig
on several occasions, and I suspect applying
Awlgrip is similar. I have a Binks gun with a
pressure pot, as well as HVLP guns, gravity feed
guns, touchup guns, and even airless. Oh yes,
I've got an air brush with a compressor also .

The PO painted the boat himself (rolled and tipped
it with Awlgrip), and although it looks really
good from ten feet away, it is not a professional
quality finish when viewed close up. Additionally,
the finish--which is less than two months old--has
two very visible dock rash scratches which are six
to eight feet long (sigh). The good news is that
because it was painted so recently, I stand a more
than decent chance of getting a good color match.

Right now I'm just studying the issue, because
there are other things on the boat that will have
priority for a while--thru hulls, standing rig,
electrical wiring, sanitation, etc., but I might
bring my touch up gun and a compressor down and do
an experiment at the dock. If I get a calm day,
I can pretty much guarantee no overspray with the
touch up gun. My experience with Imron is that it
is tough to wetsand.

Don W.

Frank Boettcher wrote:
Awlgrip (catalyzed polyurethane) is no more difficult to apply than
any good automotive finish. The problem is getting the perfect color
match. If you have or can get the mix formula and the finish isn't
faded, the battle is 90 percent won.

For small scratches I would wet sand them out and use an air brush or
small touch up gun. Or if you have a friend who is in the auto body
or car restoration business, get them to help you.

Just follow the safety info with regard to respiratory protection. It
is fairly potent stuff.

Frank

Don W wrote:
Hi Frank,

I've applied Imron successfully with my spray rig on several occasions,
and I suspect applying Awlgrip is similar. I have a Binks gun with a
pressure pot, as well as HVLP guns, gravity feed guns, touchup guns, and
even airless. Oh yes, I've got an air brush with a compressor also .

The PO painted the boat himself (rolled and tipped it with Awlgrip), and
although it looks really good from ten feet away, it is not a
professional quality finish when viewed close up. Additionally, the
finish--which is less than two months old--has two very visible dock
rash scratches which are six to eight feet long (sigh). The good news
is that because it was painted so recently, I stand a more than decent
chance of getting a good color match.

Right now I'm just studying the issue, because there are other things on
the boat that will have priority for a while--thru hulls, standing rig,
electrical wiring, sanitation, etc., but I might bring my touch up gun
and a compressor down and do an experiment at the dock. If I get a
calm day, I can pretty much guarantee no overspray with the touch up
gun. My experience with Imron is that it is tough to wetsand.

Don W.

Frank Boettcher wrote:

Awlgrip (catalyzed polyurethane) is no more difficult to apply than
any good automotive finish. The problem is getting the perfect color
match. If you have or can get the mix formula and the finish isn't
faded, the battle is 90 percent won.

For small scratches I would wet sand them out and use an air brush or
small touch up gun. Or if you have a friend who is in the auto body
or car restoration business, get them to help you.

Just follow the safety info with regard to respiratory protection. It
is fairly potent stuff.

Frank



I have a boat with an old Awlgrip finish and am pondering my next move
and am intrigued with your comments about gelcoat.

From your experience, what options do I have, if any,
regarding.....gelcoat, Awlgrip, etc.... ? And, which do you recommend
and why ?

Appreciatively,
Courtney

If your boat has already had an awlgrip finish, your best bet is to
continue with Awlgrip. Awlgrip is not compatible with any other
finishes. In order to obtain a different finish you would have to have
your boat stripped down first. This will be costly and should be done
professionally. To keep expenses down and aggrevation, I would paint
the boat with Awlgrip. If you have never painted a boat or are
unfamiliar with Awlgrip, than I would recommend having it done
professionally. If you have painted a boat and are somewhat familiar
with Awlgrip, than I would recommend rolling and tipping. I would never
recommend that you spray Awlgrip your self. It is extremely dangerous
to your health when you spray. Even when rolling and tipping you should
always wear gloves and a respirator.

Courtney Thomas wrote:

Hi Courtney,

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with
Awlgrip except for now owning a boat that has been
painted with it. I believe that you would have to
remove the Awlgrip if you wanted to apply new gelcoat.

Don W.

Don W wrote:

Hi Frank,

I've applied Imron successfully with my spray rig on several
occasions, and I suspect applying Awlgrip is similar. I have a Binks
gun with a pressure pot, as well as HVLP guns, gravity feed guns,
touchup guns, and even airless. Oh yes, I've got an air brush with a
compressor also .
Don W.

Frank Boettcher wrote:

Awlgrip (catalyzed polyurethane) is no more difficult to apply than
any good automotive finish. The problem is getting the perfect color
match. If you have or can get the mix formula and the finish isn't
faded, the battle is 90 percent won.

For small scratches I would wet sand them out and use an air brush or
small touch up gun. Or if you have a friend who is in the auto body
or car restoration business, get them to help you.

Just follow the safety info with regard to respiratory protection. It
is fairly potent stuff.

Frank

I have a boat with an old Awlgrip finish and am pondering my next move
and am intrigued with your comments about gelcoat.

From your experience, what options do I have, if any,
regarding.....gelcoat, Awlgrip, etc.... ? And, which do you recommend
and why ?

Appreciatively,
Courtney