"Rosalie B." wrote in message
...
"Roger Long" wrote:

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...

I think the key is to have the boat moving slightly before using the
spring. If you don't have it moving, you may not have enough engine
to move it while firmly attached.

Ah ha! There is the nugget of wisdom I was hoping to get out of this
post. She certainly would have turned if I had used the considerable
inertia of a boat with a 3/4" glass hull instead of trying to
accellerate it.

Also I seem to remember that in reverse the rudder has less ability to
turn the boat, and that I must not turn the wheel hard over in reverse
because if I do, the rudder is less effective.

Here's what I'll try:

2 -3 feet of slack in the spring to the aft cleat I can reach from the
helm. Rudder full over.
Back until spring is tight and cut power.
Let the boat swing. Add power if necessary.
Cast off spring at the right angle and start backing.
Cut power as boat comes straight in slip.
Use short reverse applications just sufficient to keep sternway on.

We too use a spring line on the dock to anchor the bow usually while
we drive into it to get the stern in to a face dock. But sometimes we
will use one to pivot the boat while coming out of the slip.

In our home slip of course, we don't cast the lines off and bring them
aboard, we hang them up on the pilings or leave them on the dock.

grandma Rosalie

I find that you have to be really careful to keep the rudder amidships when
in reverse, because the action on the rudder will cause the wheel or tiller
to slam violently to one side if it gets much passed centerline. You can use
this if you're prepared for it. If you're not prepared for it, fingers or
wrists broken may be the result.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com