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#2
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On Wed, 09 Dec 2009 08:29:49 -0600, cavelamb
wrote: So the last few days have been spent digging through her bowels trying to get all the lines emptied. You're better off to just pump -100 RV antifreeze (the non-toxic pink stuff) through everything, and then you don't have to worry about water trapped in low spots. |
#3
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![]() "cavelamb" wrote in message ... The temperature is dropping like a barrel over Niagra Falls today. Supposed to be 21 at noon today and hold for a few. Since this is the first boat I've ever had that has plumbing I'm kind of nervous about all that plumbing freezing up. So the last few days have been spent digging through her bowels trying to get all the lines emptied. I'd almost (today) prefer a cedar bucket. I may feel different about that in April though. Freezing water only causes a problem if it has nowhere to go when it expands. So a bit of stuff in the bottom of your holding tank is not a problem, nor is a little water lying in a plastic pipe or in the bottom of your fresh water tank Just make sure all systems drain at least enough to ensure nothing is chock full of water with nowhere to expand. I got caught last year with a glass pressure vessel for the fresh water system that was tucked out of sight under the sink with inlet and outlet connections at the top and therefore needed its bowl unscrewing and emptying even after the pipework had been pumped dry. I replaced it with one which had the connections at the bottom so it now drains naturally. If your engine is fresh water cooled it should have antifreeze in it but it will pay to disconnect the salt water inlet hose and suck enough antifreeze up it so that both sides of the heat exchanger are protected, plus he exhaust line.. If you leave batteries on board they will be Ok if fully charged but will freeze and become useless if discharged. If your bilge pump is automatic it should be disconnected from the batteries otherwise it may burn itself out or blow its fuse if it freezes in the 'on' position. Some water is likely to get into the bilge via the mast if it is stepped onto the keel so an automatic bilge pump may try and start. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Edgar wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message ... The temperature is dropping like a barrel over Niagra Falls today. Supposed to be 21 at noon today and hold for a few. Since this is the first boat I've ever had that has plumbing I'm kind of nervous about all that plumbing freezing up. So the last few days have been spent digging through her bowels trying to get all the lines emptied. I'd almost (today) prefer a cedar bucket. I may feel different about that in April though. Freezing water only causes a problem if it has nowhere to go when it expands. So a bit of stuff in the bottom of your holding tank is not a problem, nor is a little water lying in a plastic pipe or in the bottom of your fresh water tank Just make sure all systems drain at least enough to ensure nothing is chock full of water with nowhere to expand. I got caught last year with a glass pressure vessel for the fresh water system that was tucked out of sight under the sink with inlet and outlet connections at the top and therefore needed its bowl unscrewing and emptying even after the pipework had been pumped dry. I replaced it with one which had the connections at the bottom so it now drains naturally. If your engine is fresh water cooled it should have antifreeze in it but it will pay to disconnect the salt water inlet hose and suck enough antifreeze up it so that both sides of the heat exchanger are protected, plus he exhaust line.. If you leave batteries on board they will be Ok if fully charged but will freeze and become useless if discharged. If your bilge pump is automatic it should be disconnected from the batteries otherwise it may burn itself out or blow its fuse if it freezes in the 'on' position. Some water is likely to get into the bilge via the mast if it is stepped onto the keel so an automatic bilge pump may try and start. Thanks Edgar. I've been doing some custom work inside. New cabinet work, new electrical panel location, so it was necessary to disconnect the batteries and shore power for a while. Batteries were fully charged, so I think they will be ok for a while. But I will be glad to get power hooked back up soon. My boat has an outboard motor and the bilges stay bone dry. I had a little rain leak around the chain plates, but that's fixed now. Not having the bilge pumps on line doesn't worry me as much as the cold. (I check on her every day since I'm in there working on stuff) Starboard side is pretty much done. The port side has the electrical panel, so it's a bit more involved and taking a bit longer. (but I'm ready for it to be done...) Richard http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri26/c26-mods.htm Scroll down about 1/2 way to the Old/New Arrangement. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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wrote:
On Wed, 09 Dec 2009 08:29:49 -0600, cavelamb wrote: Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 07:42:07 -0500, wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 18:07:55 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: fOn Mon, 07 Dec 2009 18:29:11 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 07:15:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Mon, 07 Dec 2009 13:37:17 -0500, Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 07 Dec 2009 09:37:30 -0800, Gordon wrote: This filter supposedly stops odor so why not vent inside? It will lead to problems sooner or later. Peggie is a big advocate of freely venting the holding tank with lots of fresh air. At the very least, the filter will impede that venting. At worst the filter will become clogged sooner or later and cause the tank to pressurize. Use your imagination on where that will lead. Perhaps I miss-remember Peggy's advice but I have the distinct memory that Peggy suggested large holding tank vents and felt that a supply of oxygen was necessary - I seem to remember 1 inch vents?. I can't see that adding a charcoal filter to the system is going to cause troubles assuming that it doesn't impede air flow but why vent inside the boat - what advantage is that going to give you? Disadvantage. Better venting due to increased airflow outside. Time to rant. First, I don't have a boat, but so what? When I get a boat, it will have an Airhead or equivalent. Every owner account I've read has been a good review. Not suitable for "party boats" or more than 4-5 crew, but for a couple or a couple with a couple kids it's fine. No holding tanks, hoses, valves, pumpouts, etc. And no stink. Only reason I can figure they aren't more used is simple ignorance, and the marine head parts industry poo-pooing the idea. Rant over. --Vic What is an "airhead"? I've only ever heard that term used in reference to ditzy blonds..."she's an air head". Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) It's a composting toilet at an insanely inflated price ($1K!) that doesn't out-perform a $79 porta-potty in actual use. I'm not a real aficionado of marine toilets at any time but a thousand dollars to take a crap? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) The temperature is dropping like a barrel over Niagra Falls today. Supposed to be 21 at noon today and hold for a few. Since this is the first boat I've ever had that has plumbing I'm kind of nervous about all that plumbing freezing up. So the last few days have been spent digging through her bowels trying to get all the lines emptied. I'd almost (today) prefer a cedar bucket. I may feel different about that in April though. non-toxic RV antifreeze is your friend. My friends lie to me some times. What Do I do? Pour it in the holding tank??? |
#6
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On Wed, 09 Dec 2009 09:26:14 -0600, cavelamb
wrote: non-toxic RV antifreeze is your friend. My friends lie to me some times. What Do I do? Pour it in the holding tank??? Start with the intake side of your head and pump it all the way through the system. |
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