Toller wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
glue,

Not a good choice.
______________

It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
curve is for anything but maybe style.

A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
______________

Can I make the new one straight?

Yes
_______________

Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?

Compelling, no.
_________________

I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
one;
will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
reason?

It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________

(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,

It would.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Sep 8, 7:46 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Toller wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
glue,

Not a good choice.
______________

It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
curve is for anything but maybe style.

A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
______________

Can I make the new one straight?

Yes
_______________

Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?

Compelling, no.
_________________



I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
one;
will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
reason?

It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________

(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would

be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,

It would.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

When it totally delaminates and some layers rot, cut out the rotten
layers. Use your table saw to cut thin strips to replace them with.
Glue it up with epoxy and it is as good as new. Worked for me.

when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d
let you all know
Bri


"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:gYvEi.509$282.86@trnddc01...
Toller wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
glue,

Not a good choice.
______________

It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
curve is for anything but maybe style.

A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
______________

Can I make the new one straight?

Yes
_______________

Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?

Compelling, no.
_________________

I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
one;
will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
reason?

It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________

(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,

It would.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:58:49 GMT, "brian c"
wrote:

when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d
let you all know
Bri

When my fork and pin tiller gave up the ghost, I laminated in new
hardwood materials to make the tiller a yoke and pin.
I.e. a hole for the rudder post surrounded completely by wood.

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Thanks

Brian W

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

Under $20 for hickory if I recall....

Brian W

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:27:31 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

Under $20 for hickory if I recall....

Brian W

The figure I gave is for a regular Louisville Slugger major league
professional bat. I couldn't believe it. Now the ash looks to be going
the way of the chestnut and elm. I am sure hickory would make an
acceptable bat.

Casady

On Wed, 05 Dec 2007 14:41:57 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available

Maybe so, but pick handle is not a particularly demanding application.
What needs a handle tougher than any wood is a sledge hammer used to
drive steel wood splitting wedges. One good mi**** and any wood handle
will break. I replaced it with a fiberglass handle when I broke the
wooden one.

Casady

they cost about £5 in the UK
Bri


"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady