Depending on the cockpit's configuration a curve tiller is preferred.
Laminated teller with two part epoxy is better for strength and allow for
pattern variation like one or two layers of white hard wood with one layer
of dark wood. On my previous boat I made a spare tiller with one piece
solid ash and had no problem.
When you make a tiller you have to make sure that the holes are drilled
perpendicular and in line with the metal holding part mounted on the rudder.
When push comes to shove one of two fibreglass laminated hockey stick will
get you out of trouble. This is more true on smaller sailboat. The Potter
15 is a nicely configured boat. If you have the time and facility I would
go for laminated ash and holly wood ( or their equivalent) tiller with two
parts epoxy. You can use the old tiller as a template.

"Toller" wrote in message
...
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I
think it will have to be replaced in the long run.
It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is
for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)