On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:58:49 GMT, "brian c"
wrote:

when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d
let you all know
Bri

When my fork and pin tiller gave up the ghost, I laminated in new
hardwood materials to make the tiller a yoke and pin.
I.e. a hole for the rudder post surrounded completely by wood.

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Thanks

Brian W

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

Under $20 for hickory if I recall....

Brian W

they cost about £5 in the UK
Bri


"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

wrote

West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely
reasonable.

http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199


You can't even think about making a replacement for that price.

Lew

Hey people,

Didn't we just go over this subject a couple of weeks ago?? Or was that
another 'forum' ??

Anyhow, if you don't like the 'stock' Potter tiller, there are at least 4
other sellers out there, with prices ranging from about $50 to about $100.

I was thinking of making one for the P15 I'm refurbishing. The present
'tiller' looks like a length of '2x4' that was cut to an 'approximate shape'
& painted brown !! While it worked for the past owner, it no-way suite my
'sensibilities'. I was thinking of making one myself {not really hard, just
time consuming}, but the afore mentioned prices are making me re-think THIS
part of the project.

Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

wrote
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely
reasonable.

http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199

You can't even think about making a replacement for that price.

Lew

AMEN!

On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think
it will have to be replaced in the long run.
It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for
anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)

With respect to the other posters, and I have not read all the posts.
I can relate my experience. I laminated 5 pieces of 6mm Occoume with 4
0z. tight weave fiberglass and Epoxy in between layers. I am sure it
is still strong as hell, but it did have more flex than I would have
liked. The guy I made it for was thrilled though. Carry on, sorry if
this has already been noted.

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:27:31 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon.

Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks.

Casady

Under $20 for hickory if I recall....

Brian W

The figure I gave is for a regular Louisville Slugger major league
professional bat. I couldn't believe it. Now the ash looks to be going
the way of the chestnut and elm. I am sure hickory would make an
acceptable bat.

Casady

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:02:11 GMT, "Toller" wrote:

The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.

The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has
delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think
it will have to be replaced in the long run.
It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for
anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there
anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very
old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller
handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so
duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the
handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.)

If you really need the curves, perhaps you could steam bend the piece
of oak.

Casady

On Wed, 05 Dec 2007 14:41:57 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood
available

Maybe so, but pick handle is not a particularly demanding application.
What needs a handle tougher than any wood is a sledge hammer used to
drive steel wood splitting wedges. One good mi**** and any wood handle
will break. I replaced it with a fiberglass handle when I broke the
wooden one.

Casady