Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sep 8, 7:46 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Toller wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be
asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks.
The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It
has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane
glue,
Not a good choice.
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It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S
curve is for anything but maybe style.
A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock. Or lower, depending.
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Can I make the new one straight?
Yes
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Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated?
Compelling, no.
_________________
I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new
one;
will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any
reason?
It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made
of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________
(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would
be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle,
It would.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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When it totally delaminates and some layers rot, cut out the rotten
layers. Use your table saw to cut thin strips to replace them with.
Glue it up with epoxy and it is as good as new. Worked for me.
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